Finally getiing this thinng started. Got the DMV paperwork squared away, what an experience. I got the car high centered on the trailer, missed my appointment at the DMV for VIN verification, then the inspector wanted to give me grief for having the car on a trailer and not wanting to take it off! Anyways, had to put a new brake master cylinder on to make the brakes somewhat functional (still has a leaky wheel cylinder, but I am going to convert to discs all around), put a battery and some fresh gas in. Guess what, it runs! Though I am almost certain the odometer has been around once. Going to do a compression check, go from there to determine if the 340 needs a rebuild. Will probably replace the carb and tranny with a TH350 or 200-4R. Going to need some major work on the right rear quarter. Looks like at least part of it has been replaced- almost 1/4" of bondo along the top. Also need to replace the trunk floor, filler panel behind rear window, and a rust-out next to the trunk lid and under trunk lid trim, get the bumpers rechromed or replaced. Probably rebuild the rear end with a posi or limited slip.Dual exhaust and some paint and interior work, and she'll be ready to go. Going to be a slow process, but should be good. View attachment 221135 View attachment 221135
That window channel is hella rusty. It looks as bad as my front windshield channel was. All it takes is time. Have fun.
---------- Post added at 08:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 PM ---------- [/COLOR] how are you as a metal worker??? had the same check list with my 66 lark. had to do front and rear window channels too. take a 4in wide x how ever long your need of 18 gauge metal and bend a 90 on the brake. than hit it with a shrinker /strecher tool and poof.. you have a 10 dollar patch. have fun and enjoy the resto.... Paul 66larkgs Project GS-X( The way buick should have made them) Buick 401nailhead w/t67 garret Turbo 7psi boost c5/c6 corvette brakes, ridetech airride shockwaves..
I'm into a 67gs its a challenge but worth it, the more I work on it the more I love it, You look to have a solid car to start out with and a good plan. Good luck with her there aren't a lot of 67's around its good to see more being brought back from the grave. You want to see rust you should check out my car it was a real mess but it's coming around oh so very slowly. good luck
Hey Shawn I'm there with you in spirit buddy!!! I'm just finishing up the front end rebuild on my 67. I have done the front disc conversion, well worth it. The next two projects are the 200R4 conversion and a 3:55 pozi upgrade to the 10 bolt. I have also added 64 polished aluminum intake with a 500 cfm Edelbrock carb on my 300 and it made a big difference. I'm thinking of doing the build up in the March issue of Hot Rod of a 300 for my 67, that will be next winters project. product Have fun Shawn, I'm looking forward to seeing the up dates and the final product. Maybe those in the aftermarket are following V-8 Buick and will see that the 64-67 Skylark market is viable and will start addressing it. Thanks for throwing another log on the fire to get them going Shawn!
I bought the replacement piece for the front bottom. I think I bought it from Tamraz on ebay, but he doesn't list any now. this is the type part I'm talking about. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDSHIELD-...es&hash=item20c2e1cac3&vxp=mtr#ht_1201wt_1163 The top and sides on mine just had some small rust holes. the rear was pretty bad on mine, but I just hand formed some pieces, welded them together and fit it in as best as possible. It would be nice to have one of those shrinker / stretcher machines, but money is money and sometimes we do work arounds. Good luck and enjoy the work, it is quite fun.
Jon I'm going to have to do the same thing on my 67's rear window channel can you tell me what gauge metal you used and did you use 2 pieces to make the channel or use a break? I'm thinking of just using a 17/8" x 7' 18 or 20 gauge piece and try to find some one with a break to bend it 90 deg. but like you the shrinker /stretcher is a little beyond my means. I would appreciate any information you can give me.
I guess I didn't say it correctly now that I look back at my response. The bottom channel was actually ok, it was really just the two lower corners that were bad. As you can see, the bottom of the channel looks pretty good, had a few holes but was pretty solid. Now those corners....... I used 18 ga steel and just cut and formed it by hand, then welded the bottom and side together and had at it with a die grinder in the corners and a flat disk to smooth it out. 18 ga is pretty tough to bend and move around, but I felt for there it should be heavier. I would probably use 20 ga to make it easier if you have much forming to do. Maybe a trip to the wrecking yard will result in a whole new filler piece. Good luck and have fun. Good luck. ---------- Post added at 07:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 PM ---------- Here is a picture about half way thru the fixing. ---------- Post added at 07:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------
Mine's the same way and thats after I replaced the whole filler piece complete from trunk brace's, hinges all from a donor car. My GS originaly had nothing there top piece and lower brace were gone. My "new" donor piece is solid except the window chanel is swiss cheese and my side are just like yours so I'm kind of doing the same thing as you but I have the added fun of patching the whole lower rear window channel, its amazing how they all rust the same way. The window's look cool but might not of been the best design they could have cam up with.
Just curious what people thought of this. Tossing a few ideas around (bear in mind I'm no Foose), don't see many Skylarks done as a "kustom", mostly resto-mod or street machine. Originally had plans on doing this to an early Rivi before I found this Skylark, guess the idea hasn't left me. I am a minitrucker at heart, so I have a soft spot for customs. The car is a standard sport coupe, not a GS, so not worth much. Would have mild body mods, contrasting painted roof or a new vinyl top, airbags, wide whites with chrome steelies or Radir-style wheels, custom pinstriping (with pinstriped Buick logos, so people know its a Buick:laugh. Also would leave the 340 in it, but may put a mild turbo on it just so it runs proper! White interior, either factory style or tuck and roll. Not sure on color, but always been partial to the Autumn Gold metallic of the '73 Rivi my dad had, so possibly something similar. Let me know, thoughts/suggestions. I think it would be cool and different.
It's YOUR project so do whatever spins your crankshaft the most. If I keep my 68, I plan on customizing it myself.
Got started with the bodywork finally. Started with the trunklid. Had to patch 4 areas on the outside. Not so sure it can be salvaged after seeing the rust damage on the inside, all at the lower edge. Shame, because the rest or the inside is near pristine, and overall the lid is fairly solid. The inside looks tricky to patch. Going to be on the hunt for a solid trunk lid. Good old fashioned hammer and dolly work to shape the corner patches. patchwork came out ok, not totally pleased, but a lot of it will be covered by the trunklid trim. Going to need some filler work, but I am not a professional, just had some bodywork training about 8-10 years ago. Found another surprise on the right quarter, confirmed my suspicion that at least part of the quarter was replaced a long time ago, as it is brazed in. May take a lot of work to fix that. On a brighter note, finally picked up an ST300 kickdown switch on ebay.
must have removed a gallon of bondo from the right rear quarter. It's rougher than I thought. May need a doner quarter just for the wheel opening. On the bright side, the brakes are redone, and the car now stops on it's own.
nice start man, but the only thing i would change about your plans are a set of pinner white walls. 3/4 inch white wall max, its to new to be rocking wide whites, but thats my opinion. love where your going with it:TU:
you can cut rear wheel opening patches from a donor front fender. the body lines are nearly the same and it helps save time and effort forming the patches.
good job shawn!! when through the same thing with my 66 lark. if you have any question i did the ridetech airride and already went through all the body panel repair you are doing now. Buy a eastwood shrinker/shtrecher tool and you can make the channels so easy. bend a piece of 18/20 gauge sheet metal in a 90* angle using a brake. than put one side in the shrinker and go to town. you will see how it will create a inward U. stretch it and you create the outward U shape. http://s917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/66larkgs/66 skylark turbo nailhead/ check out the some of the body work pictures on page two. went through the same thing as you. also i did install a turbo and some airride. feel free to pm if you have any questions.
Removed more bondo today. It seems that one of the prior owners really liked the stuff uzzled:. Wire wheel works well to remove it without harming the metal. About a 1/4" from above the left rear wheelwell and rear of the quarter. Pushing the limits of bondo stability! I on the other hand will finish the metal out a little more first. Also tried removing some of the coating on the roof. Cannot tell for sure, but I think it might be latex paint! My DA sander in orbital mode removes it with a 36 grit disc, but takes forever. If I switch to circular mode, it loads up the disc, almost seems like melted rubber. Wire wheel also takes a long time. Going to try some paint stripper next:idea2:.
