Getting ready to put the motor in hopefully some time this week and need to know how to set up the distributor. How do i set the initial timing on the distributor at 10 to 12 degrees without it actually being in the motor. Everything in the motor is brand new and has to be broken in and i dont want to be turning the motor over and over without it being started to set the timing to get it started.
I will give it a shot and others can chime in with their favorite tricks. Bring number one cylinder up to top dead center. I usually have the valve cover off and rotate the motor until both valves are closed on number one and the timing mark is at zero. Then go ahead and roll the motor over just a little more until the timing mark is on twelve degrees, you may want to do more advance if you have put in a hotter cam. Take your distributor and make a mark that will show the rotor pointing to number one on the cap. Drop the distributor in and line the rotor up with your mark. Snug down the distributor up and the timing should be close enough to start.
Correct. However, once you get TDC on #1, drop in your distributor and set it so the rotor points roughly at the neck of the radiator. That should at least get it to fire up. Just be sure your #1 wire is also on the car in that area, too.
There is a thread that describes how ot use a "advance" timing light to set the timing before the engine is started. Use the Search function to locate the thread. Or you can call TA Performance and they will probably walk you through the procedure. It is not complicated... Good Luck Bert
I go one more step from what sailbrd described and have not missed yet. Once you get the dist. lined up as stated, remove the cap and turn the key "ON". Rotate the dist. and watch for the points to "spark". Then lock it in place and you will be as close as you can get to the 12 degrees you want. Scott
Hey fireball. I've never even thought of doing it like that. I just get it in the ballpark and hope she fires up. George
You deserve beer for that idea :beer I have Crane ignition and one of the ways I test is to turn the ignition on and rotate the distributor to see if the test light on the ignition box goes on. Just needed to go to the next step and use it to set up the timing.
You can also pull the number 1 plug wire, put a plug in it and ground it, and rotate the distributor and lock down where it sparks.
Realize this is 16 year old thread, but took me a long time to find post mentioned since new format has titles in html address. Here it is if anyone else is searching. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...ith-msd-8552-ready-to-run-distributor.133073/
I get it close to get it to start,with the methods listed above. I could care less what the initial is,ever. I want it all in by 3000,and if it’s not,address that. Forget the vacuum advance as if it never existed. If you need the hose there for whatever reason,put a ball bearing in it.
I care about initial timing. Too high breaks starters, cranks hard. Excess initial advance is often used to crutch poor low-rpm fueling. Too low loses torque, but that's typically not critical at such low engine speed. Optimal "all in" RPM varies with gearing, vehicle weight, and other factors. 2800--3200 covers typical street-driven cars. "Race" engine...sure. Runs at idle and WFO, and mostly WFO. Anything driven primarily at part-throttle--like every street-driven vehicle--this is TERRIBLE advice. You're throwing away fuel economy, throttle response, low- and mid-RPM power and driveability, and spark-plug longevity due to potential fouling/deposits. You're pushing waste-heat into the cooling system leading to overheating.
Brian may have had a specific useage application in mind when he wrote that, but I will agree with Shurkey. Unless youre running a electronic start retard and are strictly racing, I run a manifold vacuum advance and no more than 14 degrees initial, and still race in a class where most racers lock their distributors. But I drive my car too, and quite a bit. Runs 12.4's and gets 15 mpg on 3.73's (or at least it CAN get 15 MPG, if not that often)
Just to clarify: All my engines,resto to race. I get better drivability,better mileage,and never run above 185 in anything. I drive these everywhere.
Thanks Brian, there's always more than one way to approach things. Given that, how much total timing do you dial in to the distributor? Other the obvious issue of having it go away fast enough at WOT, what do you find to be the disadvantage of addl vacuum advance at cruise?
By no means am I saying the other methods are wrong. I’m simply giving my input of how I do things and how I get the best of everything with each given situation. The only car I have that has a start retard has a gutted HEI with the weights phased and welded,so no,they don’t move. Total on that is 34. Are they all 34? No. I get everything pretty close on an engine dyno and sometimes all is set,but the chassis dyno that I use is the final confirmation. With the proper drag set on the drum,it simulates the car driving down the road and 1/4 mile passes,etc. Hasn’t been wrong yet. I’ve been able to get the best of everything. Power,mileage,consistency,drivability,etc. Just about every distributor you get has the stiffest springs on the weights. There are two,sometimes 3 lighter options. Find the set that brings it all in by 3000-3300. As far as the vacuum advance goes,it will hinder the advance,so I just leave it unhooked and let the distributor advance itself. Otherwise,you will just be chasing your tail. You might need to bump the idle screw up on the carburetor a hair. You will also find that your initial timing will end up about where you wanted it. Nothing crazy. No mini starters or start retards. Like I said,I do this for bone stock applications all the way up to a streetable race car. Points,HEI,etc. Don’t overthink it. We could get into a whole other conversation about carburetors and tuning,as I rarely see those done right and end up trying to compensate for the wrong thing.
