I've been looking at getting some of these to add a little leg room in my car but I think I might have a problem. With the current factory set up when the seats are at the furthest position back the release lever is about an inch in front of the seat belt retractor housing. If these extenders are used it would appear that the release lever would be in contact with the seat belt retractor and not allow the seat to be fully positioned aft. Does anyone have any experience with these and what is the resolution to this issue? The parts are shown below. https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/PopUp/PopUp.aspx?imageID=IN10503Z.jpg
How far back do you want to extend? I made some for my aquamist car and went back 3". Is your seat a power seat or manual?
Manual seat. Two inches would work, three would be great, but, again, the seat release lever is now an inch from the retractor cover. I don't see how I could gain 2-3 inches without having to removing the belt cover and mechanism.
The slide and release lever is on the floor mounted frame. These allow the seat (cushion part) to be mounted further back on the floor frame. The release will be in the same place. I need them too! USE hardened (grade 6 or 8) bolts for fastening... If your girlfriend is 4-10" she may not be able to reach the pedals! ws Seems a little pricey for a piece of 1/8" wall square tubing cut in half or 1/2" X 2" channel iron IN10503Z (1966 - 1972 Skylark/GS/Regal/GN) BUCKET SEAT EXTENDERS (BOLTS TO SEAT & TRACK BOLTS TO IT - GM FACTORY ACCESSORY MOVES SEAT BACK 2 INCHES FOR TALLER PEOPLE) - LH ONLY $79.00
I went 3" and had no interference, maybe there is a difference in some seats. I am going by memory but the only thing that I remember that could have hit was the lever knob, not the lever itself. I know I could still move my seat up if needed (wife is 5', 2 of the kids are inbetween me and her in height) I (sadly) no longer have the car but have another bench seat car I need to do the same to, I can look at it tonight and we can talk more.
I don't know if there's a difference between your car and my '67 in seat/seat belt retractor locations but I have these on my car and have no issues using the seat adjuster lever. I would shop around on ebay for them. I found some cheaper than what TPP sells them for. Here's the only pic of the drivers side seat that I have. It shows the seat in a more rearward position than stock. Sorry, but it doesn't really show what your asking about though. Just a point of reference.............
I used these on my 67 Skylark. They work great. However, I wish they were just a couple inches longer. They are very good for the price. Super sturdy too. They were on the front page of year one...so they must know you're looking for them :grin: https://www.yearone.com/Product/PartSearchResult/SB246
I looked at mine, there will be no interference but the lever will be very close to the seat belt detractor housing. If you decide you need some let me know I can make either style (2 piece or 4 piece)
So, what options are there for gaining an additional 2-3" with a power driver's side bucket seat As the power seat brackets are different)?
Bill, are you saying the release lever stays in the same position when the seat moves? My seats don't work like that. The first photo shows the lever when the seat is in the furthest forward position, the second in the furthest back. Notice that the release lever is about 1 inch forward of the retractor cover. Using a 2" seat track extender would have the lever in contact with the retractor. How do you get around this?
Theres two separate assemblies here; The sliding unit with the knob that bolts to the floor. The seat frame bottom itself bolts to this. You can unbolt the seat from the slider and move the slider back and forth while still bolted to the floor. For this experiment it would really be easier to unbolt the whole assembly (track and seat) and work outside the car. The extenders being sold bolt to the SEAT SLIDER. The seat bottom then bolts to the extenders. That leaves the sliding assembly bolted to the OEM mounts so theres no interference with the knob/retractor, yet the seat bottom is mounted a few inches rear of the OEM position. Look at the rusty underside pic I posted. Theres a rear bolt visible. That's one of 4 that need to be removed and have the new rails bolted to the sliding side. The new rails will have that hole positioned farther to the rear. You could make longer rails by 12" if you wanted/needed to. The only loss is the inability to move the seat that much farther forward. If the cars a three pedal job and the wife drives it with the seat all the way forward, she might no be able to push the clutch to the floor (or the go-fast pedal either!). ws https://www.google.com/search?q=buc...tended+mounting+rails+for+tall+people&spf=235
