Tried a search, not much came up....who makes the best seam sealer for around the top of the cowl, etc?? Looking for something that duplicates the factory thick type application.... There seems to be a fair amount of them out there, just thought I would see which one you guys think works the best...I imagine 3M is good?? later Tim
Tim 3M makes a brushable seam sealer. I have also seen some two part seam sealers made by 3M the flow out better but won't leave the brush marks like the factory seam sealer. Dave
We use urethane seam sealer that come in a caulking tube like used in a caulking gun. NAPA etc stores that have a paint mixing departmemnt carry it.
What ever brand you pick, don't put on thick at all. Mine is about 2-3mm's thick and it cracked AFTER I put the front end back on! :af: Thin coats.
I used the 3m brushable stuff. The brush marks show, but imho it's a PITA to get it to look exactly like factory.......I settled for close enough. Otherwise, it dries quickly and works well. :bglasses:
Tim, I would recommend any of the 3 following products which are basically the same thing, just different brands : IES (International Epoxies & Sealers) # 1570 Fusor # 800/801 3M # 8361 All of these are a heavy bodied urethane seam sealer that can applied with a caulking gun then brushed to appear like a factory applied sealer.
Ditto....use sealer from a caulking gun.... I tried the 'brushables' from a can. .....They just don't 'brush' on very well! I ended up applying the sealer with a putty knife, shaping it with my fingers, and then finishing it with a brush. ....waaaay too much work! For brushes I used a cheap disposable with a 'V' cut into it. It worked pretty well. For small seams, I used the cheapo solder-paste brushes.
reopening this older post... on my project I have noticed seam sealer that is soft like around floor pans ...and also sealer that is very hard like on top cowling area and roof rails....... are there 2 types of seam sealer ...one that stays soft and the other that hardens????? o No:
We are using the "FUSOR" brand on our projects. It's a urethane and will not crack. You can get it in black to match OEM. The only problem is it is applied with a special Air powered chaulking gun which is not cheap. Also you can use this same sealer and adjust the gun to "Spray" and it can be used as undercoating. It can be adjusted to be as smooth or as course as you need to duplicate the OEM undercoating in the rear wheelwells etc.
That original black seam sealer used around the cowl is some very poor quality stuff. It's best to just use the newer technology urethane sealer in all areas as it stays flexible and has excellent adhesion.
I used the stuff in the caulk tube recently, I believe it was 3M. It's white, just like the factory stuff and it is paintable. I pitit on ant used a piece of cardboard as a putty knife to spread it to duplicate the factory look. It came out great! I painted the cowl and firewall when it cured and it looks very close to the factory stuff.
I noticed two different types of seam sealer on my car as I took it apart. A black brush on type and a thicker white and sometimes orangish/pinkish colored. The thicker areas like the joints on top of the cowl and under the windshield and some of the seams in the trunk have the thicker white colored stuff. Also, this look like what the floor pan plugs are held in with. The seams that are lap welded appear to have the black brush-on type. Like the floor pan at the door sills and the firewall seams.
yes Bill ....thats what I'm talking about.....like a harder bondo type...beside the interior soft type.... I wouldnt think the soft stay pliable type would be ok for the cowling area and even some areas of the rockers...... who knows???...chime in please....this part is comming around for me soon on my resto. George N ...ya hear me...?" Pricaj "
