Sup peeps.. Warmer weather is here and its time to replace the old fluids with new fluids in my 62 specail. I wanted to know if its ok to use Gunk motor flush or seafoam on these old engines. If not is there any other motor oil flush that is ok to use?
I'm not sure what you mean by "Gunk motor flush". Are you talking about gunking the outside of the engine to clean it, or are you saying Gunk now makes an internal motor flush? The best thing you can do for your motor internally is run it till it's hot, drain the oil, replace the oil and filter. Done. I honostly wouldn't bother with additives. Oil already has detergent in it. A little Seafoam in fuel shouldn't hurt anything. Of course, expect 6 thousand opinions on this because there's no right and wrong.
I would hesitate to use any motor flush. It tends to wash all the sludge into the oil pan where it can plug up the sump.
One additive that I would bother with in your 215 is ZDDP, unless you are absolutely positive that the oil that you are using has a sufficient amount of it already.
I add a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase a few miles before an oil change. And about 4 ounces if Marvel Mystery oil to every 20 gallons of gasoline helps lube the valve stems, and helps prevent vapor lock . And as John says, be sure the new oil has ZDDP (zinc) . I add a pint of STP blue
If you are running an old or original engine that hasn't been apart in a long time or over 100,000 miles, then no, do not use an engine cleaner. What you'll find is that it'll do the job too well and clean out the crud that's holding the bearings and the rings together. Over time that varnish and crud eventually plugs up or almost replaces wearing surfaces, so it's better left alone until the engine is overhauled or rebuilt. It's the old adage; - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
So then what would be a good way to clean sticky rings? removing the spark plugs and filling the chamber directly with motor flush?
Personally I stick with the old tried n true method that was taught to me a few decades ago. Dump 1 quart of diesel fuel in the oil, run motor 5-10 minutes, NO LONGER than that. Now change the oil & filter and your motor should be clean inside. I have cleaned a few motors out this way in the past with no problems, and have also seen stuck rings freed up this way as well. Have a great day! Keith
Do you know for a fact that you have stuck rings? If they are just stuck - not broken, a fairly reliable method to free them is to run the engine at maximum BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure). This is achieved at low engine speed wide open throttle. Accelerate the car in high gear from a low speed with the throttle as wide open as you can get it without the transmission downshifting. It's much easier to do with a stick shift. You will be developing maximum cylinder pressure - not to be confused with maximum horsepower. This will put the maximum pressure on the rings. If that won't free them (obviously with clean high detergent oil in the engine), then you have a problem.
i dont know for a fact if the rings are sticking. The situation is that im getting alittle smoke coming out of my road draft tube. Its not alot but its enough to get on my nerves. Based on my research of what could be causing it, I beleave i am getting "blow by" that could be due to sticky rings so im starting with the easiest solution first. At some point i will do a pcv conversion.
little problem im having is finding a base plate with the port that will fit on my carb. Iv seen some peeps pipe the pcv line to the air cleaner but i feel that isnt the proper way to do it. I still might try that tho.
I saw a pvc set up on a nailhead that tapped into the vacuum port on the intake manifold, from there a line run to the port where the road draft tube was. The stock oil fillers on the vE covers were retained.
