My water temp was running around 200 consistently. Since the weather's heated up out here in the valley, I saw it go up to almost 230 at idle. I know that's still safe - but way too high for my comfort level. I switched to a 160 stat and it's still creeping up to 200-210, should be 190 tops if I'm not mistaken??? Radiator does have a minor leak. Is there a way to check for other culprits before I spend $400 on a new 4 row?
First see about flushing the coolant system, and rebuilding your Radiator. A shop may be able to fix it for a lot less. BTW: I think the reason your temps are rising, is the leak. Your coolant system is loosing pressure.
Thanks JTY - that was fast. Yup, I flushed the radiator and changed all the fliuds as soon as I got her back in Feb. Before I drop a couple Franklins, I don't suppose there's a decent radiator "stop leak" product out there that's worked for anyone else? I've never trusted that gimmick stuff and wouldn't want that stuff flowing through my system... But, I've seen other stuff work wonders - like Sea Foam for a knocking engine. Is there something out there that's the real deal?
Has anyone ever had luck with Prestone Super Radiator Stop Leak??? I trust Prestone and just need something to hold off the leak until I can drop a 4 row in there. You know the story - pretty wife, couple of kids - tough to embezzel cash for the cruiser at this time.
I used it to get one of my cars home from somewhere once... but it ran hot until we changed it. (the radiator)... Last I checked, Modine 4 core Radiators are 215 with the transmission cooler.
Where's the leak at? If it's on one of the tanks, or neck you can use JB Weld. You'll need to sand the area a bit, clean it, and let it dry first. After you apply it, let it cure for atleast 24hrs. It should hold quite well.
fix You know those radiators are mainly copper and brass, so plumbers solder works wonders with a small propane torch, just so long as you didn't put your fan in it. I have fixed a many radiators this way. Just clean the area with sand paper, brake clean, and then flux the area, and apply the solder. Its quick, and its permanent. I woudl not recommend that pur in teh radiator stuff. Youll be digging it out of the block and cooling system for ever! Plus, you dont want all that crap in your new radiator. -Jon
I would definantly NOT use stop leak stuff on that radiator, unless you want to run even hotter... If the radiator is clogged/semi clogged then stop leak will clog it more. A clean radiator is no problem and stop leak will work. Based on my experience with overheating cars, your radiator is the problem. The autozone ones work great. $99 for a 3 row. My didn't even touch 200deg on a 26 hours trip across the country. With the AC on... AC cars came with a 7 blade fan, so you might want one of thoose if you can get one. But I'd just drop the $99, and leave the stop leak on the shelf. Radiator flush kits don't work all that great. My car was running at about 240 on the highway. The flush didn't fix anything, except the next day my 3 month old water pump died... changed the radiator and works great. Side note: A lower value t-stat will not make your car run any cooler unless it already runs at the value of the current t-stat. If you have a 180, and your car runs at 190, running a 160 t-stat will not change the tempature. I have a 180 in mine, and it typically stays right on 180... it will help though if the t-stat in there is beat....
try Pankys over in Hayward, Mario does a good job and is reasonable. Otherwise the shops in Concord are good too. Avoid shops in Danville/SR unless you don;t mind the inflated prices....
Discovered it's 2 core anyway...gonna replace with a heavy-duty 4 row. That outta do it. Thanks for the advice - again. BbyCbra - did you hit the Good Guys last weekend?
