I put in Rotella T 15W-40 in my 455 and it now takes about 5-7 seconds before the oil light goes out on a cold start. The engine gets noticably quieter once the light does go out too. By cold start, I don't mean cold outside as low temps here are upper 40's -50's. It didn't do this with regular 10W-30. Should I dump the Rotella and go back to Castrol GTX or what ever? I just feel it takes too long before the light goes out and that slight noise bugs me to no end. What do you guys use for oil? Thanks, Keith
My 455 does the same thing with whatever oil I buy for some reason. I thought they all did. I will be following this thread, because I have 2 gallons of Rotella T sitting in the garge right now!
10/30 will flow faster than 15/40. What filter are you using?, not a Fram, I hope :error: Do yourself a big favor, and get a good oil pressure gauge on that engine, no Buick should be without one IMHO. What kind of noise are you hearing? Most of the Buicks I have owned took at least 3-5 seconds for the oil light to go out on a cold start. In cold weather, it's not uncommon to hear some lifter noise on a cold start, occasionally. If it happens every day, the oil is too thick, or the lifters are leaking down.
Larry, I'm using an AC PF24 filter, so that should be OK. I do have an oil preasure guage and it starts moving exactly when the light goes out and the slight knock stops. I've replaced the rockers and assembly not long ago and I never hear a peep from them anymore. Its really the slight knock what worries me, never heard it before using Rotella. It's only a few secconds, so I wonder how much harm it is? It perfectly fine once warmed up and on all starts after. Oil preasure is around 25 lbs at 1000 rpms HOT and 10 lbs at idle HOT in drive, so should be OK there. The outside temps have been in the 50-60 range, so I wouldn't exactly call that too cold. Does Rotella come in a weight lighter than 15W-40? Everyone says this is the stuff to use, but with Castrol GTX 10W30 I did not hear the slight knock for a few secconds when I started it. Keith
If I heard bearing knock upon start up, I would not use that oil. I went on the Shell Oil site, and looked around a little. Aparently Rotella also comes in a 10W/30.(Prodoct code 50011) See here: http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/RotellaTMG.pdf and here: http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t.html
There was an article in the GS Xtra quite awhile back discussing the ultimate lubrication. Richard Lasseter had visited with somebody at Mobil, and was supposedly told the Mobil 1 20-50 "V-Twin" oil has the best lubricating qualities, and the next in line was the Mobil 1 10-40 Motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oils have extreme pressure additives for the transmission that are not present in standard motor oils. You don't want to run it in newer vehicles, because it's not friendly to the cat. converter if the engine burns any oil. The only problem is the cost, at around $7/quart. The AC filters are still a cheaper filter like the Fram, that's why you can buy them at Wal-Mart or K-Mart for $2.50 on sale. There are cases where cheap filters have caused low oil pressure. The best bet is to use a WIX brand, which is available at Napa (Napa Gold filter) or CarQuest (Premium Blue line filter). Tim
Yes, I remember reading that article. The problem with the filters is restriction to flow. I also remember reading about double oil filters taking out a few engines. That's why I like the System1 oil filters, they are less restrictive than ANY paper filter. They don't look stock though.
I use rotella 15/40 in my 430 hp caterpillar truck motor when its cold out it takes a couple secs to get presser, I would say viscosity is to thick unless its 80 outside any body try Lucas oil cond? 1 qt one time seemed to work on my old chevy motor.
Larry, I guess I've never seen a filter like that, it's really wild looking. :shock: Where do you buy them and what do they cost ? Tim
Tim, you can buy them in Jegs, here: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=10503&prmenbr=361 They are expensive, but considering it's the last filter you will buy, worth it, IMHO. These filters were written up in the GS Extra. Here's the specs.
well, I got rid of the extended oil light at cold start, it's out now in less than 2 seconds, and NO knocking any more I took off the oil filter along with the contents and put on a new filter. To compensate for the lowered oil level, I added a 28oz size of Marvel Mystery oil. I believe this 'thinned' the Rotella enough that the pump can do its job at startup. OK, now I'm ready to hear how Marvel Mystery oil will destroy the engine. I used it in my new Sears lawn tractor to prevent the valves from sticking between starts, sometimes 4-5 months, and it's done an excellent job there. Keith
On Larry's Rotella.com link their is a link for where to buy Rotella oil. Followe it and put in your zip. The places that it lists will be able to get you the 10-30 that most of us should use in our gas motors. Many Rotella outlets like Shell stations, Walmart, TSC only carry the 15-40 and can't even order it due to their own supply systems. Keith I am a big fan of Marvels Mystry Oil and have used it for various things for many years. But you probably only needed 2 to maybe 6 ounces.
There's also a synthetic Rotella...5W-40 I think. More expensive than regular Rotella, but not as expensive as other synth's and it is available at Wal-Mart. I've been running it for a couple oil changes and it does flow quicker than the 15W-40 I had been using.
I am a little confused. Although you can put it in gas cars it was made for diesel engines. Why put it in your buick? Stick with castrol or penzoil, valvoline.
Because it still has the Extreme pressure additives(Zinc), that have been left out of most oils. Now that most new cars use roller valvetrains, it's not needed. But with flat tappet camshaft valvetrains, it really helps where the cam lobe meets the bottom of the lifter.
Been using 15W-40 Shell Rotella T for many years. Two Mercedes diesels, the ugly Dasher diesel...48 mpg :Brow: & the Cummins Dodge. To save a few bucks, been buying it two 5 gal pails at a time from large oil company my brother used to run the oils, lubes, & race fuel division. Good stuff, but do notice when oil has not been changed in the Cummins in 3500 miles or so, the oil pressure guage is "little slow out of the hole" upon start-up. For the last month + have been using the block heater to help upon start-up. Oil & filter change coming Saturday, will put a stopwatch to the oil guage before & after & see how big a difference. Roger
This is exactly how I do it....never start the car until I see oil pressure on the gauge...and if you're creative with the location it can also serve as an anti-theft devise. Good luck!
I've got cars with the qjets that leak fuel over time, so when they've been sitting a while, it takes some cranking to get them going. Some folks are bothered by that, but I find that about the time they fire up, the oil presure gauges needles are moving-so I'm happy with leaving things alone there. I also use those old Ampco vapor lubricators with Marvel oil. I can meter as I want for some upper cylinder lube/cleaning-
