Ok. Bought a like new set of TA roller rockers here in the parts wanted section. I'm very happy and they look great. I'm a former ASE techetion. But I'm not going to pretend to know everything.. I have installed chevy style rollers before. A no brainer . But the TA s come with studs and extra hardware. I'm guessing to keep things lined up?. I can call TA or one of you pros can set me straight. I'm sure theres some torque specs, for the studs alone. Maybe I'm missing some papers? 455 with TA Stage 1 aluminum heads. Thanks Richard...
http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/Roller_Rockers_Installation.pdf The studs install finger tight. Nuts, same as stock, 25 ft.lbs. http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/Torque_Specification.pdf
I just did mine. Used a little aluminum anti-seize on the stud threads to prevent galling, and ARP lube on the nuts and washers, then working inside to outside, alternating evenly until the nuts were snug, then torqued to 25ft lbs. I also kept constant eye on the pushrods to make sure they seated.
Trying to get them good and tight,..and not close the lash up. Last time I done mine I used a .030 gauge and tightened it up and the .018 would slip in snug
Yep. I have a roller cam and Johnson roller lifters. Easy to adjust zero lash. Set lifter on cam base, with both valves closed (TDC), zero lash and then 7/8 turn to get proper pre-load (approx .045 or 1/2 of min to max clearance). Repeat for all pushrods. Solids requires exhaust valve to just starting to open, then adjusting intake valve, and the correct amount of clearance for the specific cam. After setting, and re-checking, you then repeat by just start open on the intake and set the exhaust, then check with feeler gauge. It is more complex and if you cannot get the correct lash, and feeler gauge drag, you compensate with next + or - pushrods. Given the expansion/contraction of aluminum heads and cast block, and I'm running a street motor, I went with the hydraulics. At this stage in life, I just want to have fun. YMMV.
I always found it easy to adjust lash. I’ve checked the lash only once in 10 years on a solid flat tappet in my convertible and it was fine. Still runs fine too, 1000’s of miles later.
This works on smaller duration cams, but with larger duration cam it is possable that a valve to not be on the seat if your not perfect with your tdc guess. I use 2 rules Set lash cold, not all metal expands at the same rate as it warms up, but cold is cold.........you just need to recheck when you feel everything is up to temp.......kind of sucks but after a few times you will get an idea of it expands. EO/IC rule (Exhaust Opening and Intake Closing). Set the intake valve lash when the exhaust valve is beginning to open. This will put the intake lifter at the base circle which is where you want it to be. Then set the exhaust valve lash when the intake valve is about halfway down on the closing side.
To clarify, I just set mine after putting the engine together, so I still had the intake off and could verify base circle on each lobe of the adjusting cylinder, and both valves closed on TDC, and just followed firing order for consecutive cylinders. Certainly, adjusting an assembled and "operating" engine, will require a bit more effort.
This is true, but true 100% TDC can be hard to perfectly find without a piston stop and degree wheel. And technically TDC happens twice per firing and it becomes easy to sometimes get the wrong TDC event. My cam has almost 40 degrees of overlap @ .050 lift..........seat to seat this is closer to 100 degrees. Its safer to check large duration cam with the EO/IC, rather than TDC. yes it takes longer, but it truly assures the valve you are adjusting is on base circle. Smaller cans with less duration gives you a bigger window to be on base circle
I used the simplified 1 TDC, 6 TDC version for years, then tried EO/IC. Didn't notice any difference when I rechecked the old way.....with my 308S cam. Cam not big enough to make a difference?
Using the companion cycle is basically the same thing, just saying it differently and still several rotations of the crank shaft. Bottom line most important thing however orvwhicher way you want to accomplish it is making sure the lifter is fully on base circle.........the methods are just an way to help you make sure its there
