Correct me if Im wrong, Buick Rods are 6.600 long with a bearing size of 2.25??? And what is the benifit of pressed pins -vs- floated pins??? And thin wall pins and Tappered wall pins??? And Floated and bushed rods???? If a 455 rod jurnals were turned down to 2.20 (stock stroke) what type of rods would I use and what is the benifit if doing this -vs- buick rods??? And when are stock rods not enough on a stock motor??? And when is block filler used/installed/poured in the block. B4 machine work??? Michael p I know its too early to think....
I think the stock rods are 6.615 If you turned done the journal to 2.20 you could run a aftermarket 6.635 bbc rod (eagle is the cheapest) or you could run a 6.800 long rod.With the 2.20 journal the choices of rods are more plentiful. Floating pins offer less friction and easier maintanence.You don't have to heat the rods and press the pins out. Taper wall pins are more for a blower/nitrous application. Thin wall pins are for NA combos they offer light weight for faster engine acceleration. I would say 600hp range is the max for a stock rod. You want to fill the block before machine work.
Thanks 10inch... Im going to keep going with the??? As a FORD ou: guy I never had to relally think about this stuff... Just buy the kit and go... Ok.. 1) Using a 6.635 or 6.800 chevy rod will decrease the distance the of piston from the deck/head. SOOO... custom pistons are a must and the pin must be moved up 0.020 or 0.180, depending on rod, towards the bottom ring land. Correct??? Is theis a pure custom job, or does someone have these available??? 1a) Would these pistons be full skirted or more like a Ford or chevy skirt??? 1b) Would this change put the pin into the bottom ring land??? 2) Using a longer rod would change the rod ratio... Would this change be for the better or worse??? 3) Are BBC rods the same width as BBB rods??? Enough for now :Brow: ... Thanks Michael Oh there's more brewing in my pea brain... :laugh:
#1 Yes custom pistons would be required #1a no full skirt any more #1b no lots of room #2 yes the jury still out the rod ratio thing it is really a opinion discussion #3the chevy rod is wider but it's not a big deal to narrow them. Jim B at PAE and Geof Ketchum at Finishline have done this setup and I'm sure they can get you what you need. Kevin
HEHEHEHE!!!! Here I go again!!! :moonu: :moonu: Kevin Thanks!!! The info is great.... NEXT!!!! This "engine" would be used for mostly street/show/some 1/8th and 1/4 mile stuff, but not regularly. Im looking at a 73/74 block, 1/2 filled, TA block girdle, maybe lifter girdle, TA Stage 1 or 2 SE heads, ported, roller rockers, SP1 intake, full headers, and a 4-speed :Brow: ... I want to be able to drive it on the street, w/power brakes, and have it run like 2 raped apes... abeit au natural... IE... Be very durable.... I guess a quasi-race engine... I did the high compression n/a stroker in my 5.0. Tuned down for the street, and I hated it!!! :spank: Not enough, when I needed it. And not durable enough OK, back to the questions... Is it worth having a stock crank lightened and knife edged, or cheaper to get a custom??? And Coatings... The new "HOT" item in all the magazines. Coat the entire pistons in DFL or heat barrier, of course cam and crank bearings, but combustion chambers and exaust ports??? Aluminum disipates heat better than cast iron, soo the compression ratios get bumped a point to a point and half to make up for the heat (HP) loss. Now by coating the chambers, exaust ports and pistons the heat is retained and the power/heat loss is not there... Sooo, if coating everthing aluminum, would one want to keep the comp ratio down to something more reasonable???? 10.5-1??? Now, the reason for all the questions... FUNDING!!! Block work will probably start in the next few weeks but everything else that requires a large outlay of $$$ will take time... Rods are easy, but everything else is custom and that means $$$. I don't like calling someone (a business) and picking their brains and then while they are expexting possible work, Im working to aquire the proper funding. And may not even use them for my work (time, distance, priorties change, ect). Thanks for the help and info... Michael
Ok you want a serious street motor. Here's what i'd build a 470 Offset grind the crank to 3.950 use a eagle 6.800 rod and a custom piston.Keep the compression at 10.5-1 no more with the wonderfull gas they sell us nowadays. The block fill will make your oil temps rise you will need to look at this on the street. I don't think you'll need a lifter girdle unless you put a very aggressive solid flat tappet in it or a roller cam.There is no need to run a roller in a street buick (cost versus gain and durability).You can make plenty of power with out going to radical on the cam. The coating deal looks very impressive there is more than enough proof that show they work.I think in a street application the coating on bearings piston skirts etc would be a good thing.This will help with wear.The thing is you can have a ton of money just in coatings so how much do you want to spend.For me I would spend the money in other areas of the car to make it work right.Once you have everything right on the car the next time you freshen the motor try the coatings at this time. Everything you want to do has been done before so the parts are there.Imo you will need the crank rods and pistons when you start the machine work therfore you'll know everything will end up where you want it otherwise your shooting in the dark. Cylinder heads I prefer the stg2 heads for the exhaust ports.If you don't have headers this is the way I would go.The new stg1 al heads look nice to but don't forget the bulldog heads their also very nice. The only custom thing you'll need is pistons and cam I prefer custom ground cams.
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/ Do it yourself caotings!! I've done over 15 motors with the kits and have seen really good results.
