I pulled my carb this past weekend on my '67 GS-400. I took it to the local NAPA dealer to order a rebuild kit. I've looked all over the body of the carburetor to find a correct I.D. #, but to no avail. I've owned the car for seven years, and prior to that the carb was rebuilt, according to a paper tag still affixed to the rear-right corner (as viewed from the front of the carb as mounted). Actually, the carb as two paper stickers on it, the upper sticker as numbers that reads: 7032AA 1719-371 780 Below that sticker is another sticker that reads: Factory Remanufactured By Holley The counter man a NAPA checked his book but comes up with two different numbers for a rebuild kit. The book doesn't indicate model, body style, etc., only year (1967) and engine (400). The carb has never idled properly in the seven years I've owned it (runs rich). Further, now it won't start. I can only keep it running by continued spraying of starter fluid. The accelerator pumps is not shooting (but no external leakage can be detected). I disconnected the fuel line and cranked the engine and gas pumps out (indicating to me the fuel pump is working). I also removed the in-line fuel filter (in case it was clogged) and reconnected the gas line. Still the car won't start and continue to run unless I keep spraying starter fluid into the carb. This is my first posting at this site. Would appreciate any help with carb I.D. and advice from those who may have had a similar problem Walt Lake Placid, Florida
That is not the correct carburetor for a '67 GS. The '67 should have a number like 7027146, 47, 48, or 49 depending on whether it is a standard, automatic, A.I.R equipped or not. The number on that carburetor says it is a '71 Buick with an automatic transmission. The number 7041242 is the Rochester number and the other 4 digits is a date code or a run code, not sure which. The rebuild kit should be identified by the 7041242 number. I also think that it is considered to be a 4M quadrajet which identifies the linkage arrangement. The '67 carburetor has the identification numbers on a round metal tag that is on the same side as the numbers that are stamped on that carburetor but they are not stamped into it like later ones are. Hope this helps. I have many links to quadrajet sites if you need them let me know. :grin:
OK, I mistook the picture of the carb as yours. My bad. I am attaching a picture of where the carb number should be.
Thanks all, for your replies. I will reply as follows: Dan: With respect to your driver's side photo: My carb is blank there. There is no number stamping on that corner pad. BTW: I noticed my linkage arm is connected to the bottom hole in (yours is in top hole) the accelerator pivot arm, I guess for more pump shot. I have no experience with Rochester carbs. I'll have to get their book. Harvey: Yes, that's correct. Holley must of rebuilt the Rochester Quad on my GS-400. I don't know the history of the car. I was surprised to see the Holley rebuild sticker myself when I purchased the car. Lamarr: Your photos (as well as Harvey's) are a big help. I have to agree my carb isn't stock, but maybe from a '71, etc. Again, I'm not familar with Rochester quads, as I've always had Holleys. In fact, when I bought my GS seven years ago I had been out of the performance scene for 15 years. The last seven years my GS has mostly set, just driving it on occasion to keep it execised. Anyway, from the photos, I can see subtle differences in my carb from yours and Harvey's. The recessed tag area on my carb is blank. The tag either never was or was removed. Also, I noticed my carb is missing a cover-like piece in the front, just behind the slotted screw head, to the left of the accelerator pump plunger. Further, I noticed my carb doesn't have a piece shown on your carb over the primary chock plate linkage (curved arm). This would be the top most piece. Now I don't know what to do, or what carb I have. Should I take a chance on getting a '71 400 carb rebuild kit? My car has the turbo 400 switch pitch trans. One last thing, on the back side of the carb (firewall side) is a small circular casting (about 3/8's inch or slightly larger in diameter) with the numbers 7033813 casted in it. Above that is the letters RP (Rochester Performance?) and above that GM. I don't have my own web site but I do have an online photo album that I can upload photos to. I can take photos of each angle of my carb if that would help with the I.D. Thanks again to alll of the above. I still need help here. Walt
walt, the only car that a buick 400 was used in in 67 was the GS. and the differences were between transmissions, emmisions etc. but that being said, if your going to keep the carb that you have on the car, then you should get a rebuild kit for that particular carb, and not the engine that its going on. the differences between the years are mostly in jets and rods. So i would think that you should get the carb kit for that particular carb, and while its apart make sure it has the correct jets and rods for a 67 400. You can always tune the carb later by changing jets and rods, etc, but the stock specs are a good place to start.
I assume Holley replaced the center body And replaced it with an over the counter one. That is why it has no markings.
The main things that you will need to be concerned with if you replace it with a different carburetor is whether it is a side or straight in fuel hook up and the linkage setup. The '67 came stock with the side fuel hook up that you can see in my picture. Many of the later model applications use the straight in feed. I think Edlebrock makes an adapter, seems I remember seeing one once before. You will need to retain your linkage hook up to continue to operate the switch pitch transmission. I am not sure that I understand from your description how your linkage is connected. If you are interested in a replacement carburetor that is set up for your car there are a few people out there that specialize in classic carburetors. You should just be able to rebuild the one that you have. You might also try putting something in the parts wanted listings on this BB. The '67 intake has an exhaust crossover that heats the carburetor and intake. Make sure when you put the carb. on that you have the stainless heat shield in place between the mounting gasket and the carburetor. The little channel in the manifold that runs under your carburetor has a tendency to fill up with carbon if everything is not operating properly. Check it when you remove the carb. The other option would be to block up this passageway and eliminate the crossover point. Some people use an epoxy to fill the holes. Most of the kits are very similar between quadrajets. Some have extra parts. I think that if you bought a kit for a 4MV quadrajet that you would be OK. As a last resort, you could adapt another brand of carburetor, Holley, Edlebrock, Demon,... If you want, either post pictures or e-mail pictures and I will help you as much as I can. :grin:
Hi all, I posted a long reply to your responses than lost everything. I will post some photos of my carb later this evening. Thanks for all replies. Walt
Hi all, I created a Webshots photo album with 10 photos in it. Seven photos are of my carburetor that needs rebuilding (see link below). Click on each photo to view. Also, for an enlargement, click on where it says VIEW FULL SIZE under the photo. Much more detail can be shown. You can see there are no I.D. numbers stamped/casted in the housing. Also, check out the Holley stickers when the carb was rebuilt. I guess Holley's numbers are proprietary and mean nothing to Rochester. In my climate I most likely don't need the exhaust cross-over channel (my sandwich gasket has the SS insert). I recall on other car manifolds I used to plug the cross overs with tin foil. However, I guess I will leave well enough alone for now. I just want to get the car running again. It's been setting for a long time under a carport. Please (everybody) scrutinize my carb photos and tell me what you now think. I'd like to have this carb rebuilt as everything hooks up properly. Thanks, Walt '67 GS-400 carb photos
Walt, That carburetor is very similar to the one on my car except for the back side. Is there something missing off of the body? I think that if you just get a kit for a 7027146 carburetor that you will be fine. Are you thinking of having it done or doing it yourself? There are a couple of people on the board that can do a great job with it. I don't remember their names though. Duh! Nice car. I noticed that you have the carbon build up in the crossover channel on the intake. If you are going to block it off don't worry about cleaning it. I would recommend that you install the stainless heat sheild that I mentioned before if you can find one. I mainly protects the carburetor from being damaged by the heat. Have fun!:grin:
Lamarr, My carb is worse than the Wreck Of The 97 (just a joke, I see you are from Danville, Va.) While I've owned my GS for 7-1/2 years, I couldn't tell you anything about the carb. I never really looked at it close until this past weekend. Other than the car not idling smoothly at times, it ran very good. Then for some unknown reason it started to break down under heavy acceleration, like the secondaries weren't opening. It ran fine up to half throttle, but as soon has you floored it just wouldn't want to run. You could rev it up in neutral and it would wind up good under no load. (The only thing close to what my problem is now is when I had a loose distributor breaker plate (340 Dodge Dart Swinger) and it would break down under high RPM, but would idle and run fine in neutral. But there was more misfiring with that problem. My problem now feels like it's running out of gas.) Then I just let the car sit for many, many months. I got disenchanted with it. Now, however, I want to get it running again. I've only rebuilt Holleys (780 and 850's, etc.). I did rebuild a Rochester two-barrel years ago off my neighbor's firebird. I plan to rebuild the carb myself. Hopefully, the kit will come with instuctions for float settings, etc. I'll go back to my NAPA dealer and give him the 7027146 number and see what he tells me. Thanks for the advice. BTW, from what I can see of it, you have a beautiful car. I'll bet it runs as strong as it looks good. Walt
