After cleaning out the fuel pickup to see if that's a contributing factor and you want to use an electric pump, you might consider installing the electric pump low and close to the tank and leaving the mechanical pump in place.
Find a `66 pump for AC applications. If I recall properly Buick added a "chamber in the outlet side of the pump housing to absorb the hammering effect. Has to be for AC applications though. That is why in a previous post I asked if you disconnected the AC return line. I was wondering if it would change the character or eliminate the hammering as a clue. Tom Mooney
tom there is a new Airtex brand mech pump on it now. the AC pump is on the shelf for now. Can I just pinch the return line to stop flow or must I remove it and plug it and the fuel pump return nipple?
It's been a long time since I have installed an Airtex pump - water or fuel. They were so bad back in the early 80's that the shop where I worked would refuse to install them unless the customer signed the invoice that was stamped "No Guarantee." We were averaging about 30% comebacks on Airtex water pumps, and about 10% on fuel pumps - mostly for noise. Maybe they have gotten better since then.:moonu:
i installed an Airtex pump just to see if the NOS AC pump was the culprit...it obviously wasnt. Im, installing a new tank, pickup and then a new elec fuel pump when I do the tank. I'll' be re-installing the AC fuel pump along with an elec pump upon re-install. more updates soon thanks for all of the suggestions
I was wondering how your fuel pump situation is going. I just installed a rebuilt AC fuel pump in my '64 and am getting a lot of ticking and no fuel. The replacement pump (Carter) that was in the car had a shorter arm with a different angle and more spring pressure. Is it possible that it has worn the eccentric down enough to cause the ticking. I noticed that there wasn't much pressure on the new pump arm during the install.
Bringing this thread back to to top. Was browsing threads for something else when I bumped into this. I have the exact same problem. Comes and goes. 63 with 401. I would have started a thread but didn't quite no how to describe it. Still reading the entire thread. So if anyboby has more to add, please do. Problem exists after complete new exhaust and heat riser seems be operating properly with new spring thermostat. 130,000 miles on original motor. Flushed many times and enough seafaom through the intake to kill a mule. I have read the the valves are not adjustable. Hope to hear more about this as it has bugged me for over 25 years now. Seems to do it more when the car has sat for a while without running. The only difference in my car is that the exhaust noise sound more like a popping sound but always from the passenger side. I have a cross over muffler. Also, I think I can rule out the Riviera rattle as my fuel lines are pretty solidly mounted.
