Hey all, new member (Thanks Jim!) Just picked up a '72 Skylark with A\C but it's in parts. Not even sure if all the parts are there yet. I really want to get the A\C working to maybe do Power Tour this year. The question I have is will it need an R134 conversion, and is that even a thing, or should I put VintageAir/OriginalAir in instead? Thanks all (I think I answered my own questions after a little digging. Looks like I'm restoring what's there)
vintage air kit is a brainer on this one . no headaches and a better working system! trying to get a oem system pieced back together again and working correctly is a nightmare. charlie
Plus, you aren't talking about a big dollar original car that might justify the headache. I'm with Charlie.
I'm on the other side of this one. The A6 compressor and POA refrigerant systems were some of the best and coldest A/C systems ever produced. There are plenty of parts around and folks that rebuild POA valves if needed. Maybe not as easy as a Vintage air system, but if your car is already equipped with factory A/C and the under dash stuff is intact, the under hood stuff is worth chasing.
Thanks for the quick replies. It looks like most of the parts are there. The suitcase and everything is still installed... but I think it's missing the condenser up front. The guy I bought it from didn't know why the compressor was in a box. I'll go thru it and see what the scoop is. I found the parts/accessory manuals so hopefully I can make heads or tails of what's missing.
I think an original working ac system adds more value to a car than a vintage air system. Parts for the original system are everywhere. It'll be way easier to replace a few parts rather than a total overhaul.
I plan to keep this car as original as possible.... It'll take some restraint not to LS swap it but I'd rather put that fortune into what little is left to do it.
If your car already has factory air I would keep it that way, if it doesn't have air at all I would go Vintage air. The conversion to R134 isn;t that bad: make sure the condensor and evaporator don't leak and flush them, replace the hoses with barrrier hose, replace the O rings with viton, replace the seal on the compressor, recalibrate the expansion and POA valves ( there's YouTubes on how to do it)..
whatever you decide, make a COMPLETE list of everything missing parts wise. then you will need to check and see if all the parts that are there are in working/usable order {vent hoses, cables, ducts, wiring, vacuum balls, ect,ect,ect the list is long}. if you have the know how and time you will need to rebuild and test compressor, cond, evaporator. then you need to assy/install all of the parts and figure out how to get it up and running correctly. there is plenty of info out there to answer all your questions! aftermarket a/c is not going to affect the value of your car one bit! a perfectly running older system WILL not work any better than a aftermarket {vintage}t a/c system. if you take your time with your list and cost to get the old system running correctly it will make your decision a lot simpler. best of luck charlie
My choice would depend on driving it or trailering it. When I see a Buick on the road I could care less about his air conditioning. HE IS DRIVING IT. To me that's what it is all about. If your Buick is on the road, add the new air and drive it. Frank ($.02)
...under right conditions, that A6 will blow snow, but I get what VintageAir responders are sayin'...
Classic Auto Air has an oem side that has kits for everything in the engine compartment. Last I saw it was about $1300 and had a more efficient compressor etc. Says it easy converts to r34. I'm at the same decision with mine but leaning that way.
My rant - No one makes a complete kit for our cars. You are forced to custom make or pay someone else to do it. For example, no company provides a bracket to put their fancy compressor on a BBB or SBB. Also, the controls on the inside will be those three little knobs stuck under the dash. A few people ("Billy Goat") have the controls made to work with the factory controls, but again - thats custom. If you are making a hot rod then go for an aftermarket system. But until someone makes a true "drop in" you are better off to go with what the factory designed. Here's a nice Sanden mount: Edit - https://www.ebay.com/itm/266378620660?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=777008&algo=PERSONAL.TOPIC&ao=1&asc=20221115143056&meid=8b4715bd9f174efdbff0f77b36a9331c&pid=101612&rk=1&rkt=1&itm=266378620660&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=4375194&algv=RecentlyViewedItemsV2&brand=Buick&_trksid=p4375194.c101612.m4236&_trkparms=parentrq:6721adf218a0ab94d3693da4ffffe29a|pageci:a732b985-4c2e-11ee-af88-d618eb9f90b1|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage
There's a guy I saw on you-tube who custom makes Sanden A/C compressor brackets for Buick 350's and 455's. I'll try to find a link and post it. From what I remember the price was fairly reasonable.
member on here LonghornSS is the guy who makes the brackets to fit the 455 and probably the 350 too. I have a set and the quality of them as well as the welds is terrific!
I wanted to use a serpentine system from Summit ( March Performance Style Track Serpentine Systems ). Can that be used along with any AC kit to delete the dryer under the hood to look like non AC except the one that comes with the kit? Firewall delete AC patch/plate. Thanks to all Bob
Classic auto air for sure. The S6 compressor is way less parasitic than the A6. Plus the POA eliminator is great. Get the kit that comes with the hoses and drier as well. You may want to get a new condenser and evaporator if the system has been exposed for some time. If you have the original brass/copper radiator, get yourself a nice multi core aluminum replacement.
