Replacing the headlight harness

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by TTNC, Feb 14, 2024.

  1. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Nothing about him embedding that link was insulting.

    As for the headlight switch: I rebuilt mine last year. It had a sort of "crunch" to it if you turned it too far left or right and this video was what I used for guidance. Disassembly/assembly is more toward the end, as that's not the main focus of the creator's clip.



    Removal of the headlight switch will require you to get behind the gauge cluster, because the chrome plastic piece screws into the switch. I think I had mine out at the time because I was replacing the blue tabbed heater cable, so I killed 2 birds with one stone.

    I know I also removed the driver's side bucket, which I'll be doing going forward whenever any work around the steering column has to happen. I'm no contortionist and 4 bolts/10-15 minutes work is worth it.

    Once you have it apart, (and have watched the clip) dielectric grease the crap out of it before assembly. Mine works like new and I'm glad I stumbled across that clip.

    As for the headlight harness - or any harnesses, for that matter: a lot of these cars are creeping up on 60 years old, with a good majority still maintaining original wiring that's been tampered with at least once during that time.

    Anyone putting any kind of money into their Tri Shield pride and joy needs to seriously consider reaching out to Todd to get a fresh, pliable wiring harness. It's cheap insurance and easy to install.
     
  2. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    I've been chewing on this relay idea the last few days. For those who have gone that route, where do you mount the relays?
     
  3. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    I mounted mine near the battery... I would post a pic but don't have them on my current buick yet they are still in a box somewhere.

    You can mount then literally invisible under the tray..
     
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  4. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    Since your chewing on the idea of the relays..... With the motor running take voltage reading of both your battery & the headlights... Just for GP.
     
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  5. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    Have you looked at a set of these? They are E-code lamps. Way nicer than US DOT approved sealed beams......
    https://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

    Right now I only have the High/Low H4 beams with the 60/55W Vosla +190 .... I may buy the High beam H1 later,,, I don't really need them..
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2024
  6. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    I got rid of the fusible links on all of my cars. I installed maxi-fuse boxes by the battery. I just never liked the idea of wires that are always hot and usually covered with oil in an inaccessible location.
     
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  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    I should have clarified, "getting rid of fusible links and not providing proper protection in their stead", as you have.

    Having seen one car burnt to the ground, and several bad wire fires over the years from people that have cut them out when they fail and then crimp a terminal on the end.
     
  8. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    I understood that and I have also seen people eliminating them all together.
     
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