replacing Riv fuel lines

Hi guys,

Not sure this is the right forum for this question...if you can think of a better one, let me know!

While under my '68 Riv for an oil pressure adjustment, I noticed that the rubber feed fuel line was leaking where it came out of the frame just in front of the passenger door. I bought new feed and return lines and pulled them through the frame using the old lines (THAT was fun...nothin like unleaded in the EYES to brighten your day!), hooked them up, & everything runs OK, but my questions are these:

1. The lines run REALLY close to the coil spring in the right front suspension, as they leave one section of frame, cross inboard of the spring, and dive into another section of frame. The feed line seemed to be resting against the spring, and I tried to twist at the fuel pump end to change the curve of the line before tightening, but there's still little to no gap between line and spring. Is this gonna bite me after a few hundred miles? Any suggestion? Unfortunately, I didn't survey where the old line rode right there before changing them out.

2. Looking at the chassis manual, it appears there's some more rubber fuel line near the fuel tank, between it and the metal lines that run most the way forward. Has anybody had experience with THOSE rubber lines leaking? Is there any way to get to them w/o dropping the tank?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Kristy

 

There is an access panel in the floor of the trunk that will allow you to get at the sending unit. Between that, and getting under the right rear of the car, you can get at those fuel lines. No need to drop the tank.

I know the joys of replacing that front hose myself. My '70 may be a little different because of the in tank pump, but I don't recall it running that close to the spring.
Do the lines on the '67 - '68 run through the frame, then under the engine over to the left side of the engine to the mechanical pump?

 

Yes they do Dale - the steel lines run inboard along the rear side of the steel rocker panel and terminates just at the front of the passenger door, then the rubber lines snake through the front frame rails from right to left under the engine over to the fuel pump.
There is no access panel in the trunk in a '68 to get at the rear rubber lines, ('69 up only, due to the electric pump).
Unfortunately the only way to replace the rear rubber lines Kristy, is by dropping the tank!
If they are not leaking don't fix em till they do - they are a little better protected than the front rubber lines !
You might be able to push or route some of the slack in the front line into the frame rail to move it away from the coil spring. You can also wrap the lines in flexible plastic wire loom to give a little added protection ! o No: :TU:

 

If I remember correctly, on my '67 there is a steel clamp on the frame right next to the spring that holds the hose close to the frame. You would really have to look closely to see it in there, and the screw that holds it down is hard to get to. I replaced mine a long time ago and I might have had the springs out when I did it.

That access plate Dale is referring to in the trunk isn't on my '67.......someone at the Buick factory must have smartened up in late '68. ou:

 

Good memory Joe ! :beer
Same on the '68s - Kristy there is a metal clip that holds the rubber line tight to the frame away from the coil spring. :TU:

 

Buick Engineering - NOT at it's finest ! ou:
The old rubber fuel line did last 30+ years though, till I changed the mechanical fuel pump, and discovered there was not enough slack in the old rubber lines to attach them to the new Stage 1 fuel pump ! :shock:
At least the 6' of line is somewhat protected inside the frame on the '68s Jason, that pressurized rubber line in close proximity to the hot exhaust manifold on the '69s would definetly bother me too ! :TU:

 

I've had those same thoughts about mine!
With the '69's & 70's, I've wondered why they didn't use an Olds style Quadrajet with the inlet facing the right side of the car. The fuel line would then run pretty much staight into the carb intead of making that sharp u turn.

 

WOW GUYS, thanks!! Worrying about the rubber lines at the tank end as well was my dad's idea...funny how he lost inertia when I told him it'd probably be a matter of dropping the tank to get to 'em!

I'll have to root around in the frame & see if I can locate that clip to keep the line outta the spring. Joe, where's the screw that holds the clip in? Should I be looking for a screw hole on the outside of the frame to help me locate the clip?

Supposed to be 75 here in southern CA tomorrow...not a bad day to dive back under the beast!

Thanks,

 

It's inboard of the right coil spring inside the frame just about where the rubber fuel line crosses under the engine. Maybe the clip and screw was missing on your car Kristy - cause you couldn't have pulled the new line through the frame, using the old line, without undoing that clip. It's shown in view B, on page 80-8 of the '68 Shop Manual. :TU:

 

Again.....by memory nowuzzled: ......it was a 1/4" self tapper with a 3/8" head on it, and it was inbetween the spring and the frame. I agree that it's probly missing from your car or else the hose would not have come out so easy. The clamp would be easy to fabricate though, it resembled a conduit clamp if you know what I mean.

75 tomorrow, huh? You lucky stiff........we've still got snow on the ground here. :af: lol

 

there are actually two lines on the 68. don,t forget the return line to the tank . That little clip to hold the lines clear of the coils definately has to be there. It is a double hoop clip one for each line with bolt through the middle between the lines.It is indeed a bug a boo to get at but is possible to install. Hammer some soft metalflat stock over some proper sized pipe to match the hose size,then drill a hole in the center and your all set.Don,t lap over two clamps as this will leave one line loose.use a common clamp.

Saw this clip up and close and personal last week when I had the lower control arm and coil spring out. Clearance seems tight but if pulled snug and the clip is tight -- no worries.

Ed

 

How hard would it be to replace that 6 feet of rubber with 4 - 5 feet of aluminum or soft steel fuel line? I haven't been under a 68 Riv in more than 20 years so other than vague memories of some (at the time and to my 17 year old eyes) weird looking frame, I have no idea what they are like.

If there is a rubber line running near an exhaust heat source, I'd be way more comfortable if it were to be moved if it was my car. Somehow, exhaust heat combined with potential leaks of fuel would make me a bit nervous for sure. Heck, even just covering the rubber line with some type of heat barrier would make me feel better. The factory didn't always have the best ideas and if they did, economics played a very real part in whether or not those ideas were used, a la the Pinto fuel tank/rear end issue.

 

Hi Jason.

I pondered that very question when I re did all the fuel lines on my 68. I took a lot of time to try and find a better routing. Long and short of it was there just wasn,t a better way!! Lots of interferance running the lines up the left side of the car and just not of options to get across that frame rail and to the pump on the other side. Buick did what I think was the best of a bad situation. I opted in mine to run new rubber all the way from the tank. Used electrical seal tite flex down the frame rails ,built custom clamps from copper and pulled the lines inside. When I got to the front end I followed the original routing .Built a small heat shield and attached it to the header pipe with a clamp to deflect the heat away at the front where it leaves the f rame rail and up into the fender area. Left lots of slack at the back end and tied it up to the rear torsion bar.Lots of slack to drop the tank now.
In my mind metal tubing through that area was a no brainer. JAI !!!

Gotta remember on the 68 you gotta get to that Mechanical pump on the left side -- no problems with manifold heat issues with the hose.

Ed