Before I do something the hard way........ Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the wheel well chrome off a car when the phillips head screws are very badly rusted and stripped out already? I would think that carefully drilling right through the center of each screw would be my best bet, but I'm looking for any other suggestions before I get started. Thanks :TU:
Dremel time!!!!!!!!! This never fails me. Use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. Use the cut-off wheel to deepen one of the philips cuts. What your doing is making a way deeper slit for use with a larger flat head screwdriver.
Try using an "ACR" phillips bit. These bits have ridges on the tip. Ive taken out alot of stripped screws that otherwise may not come out with this type of bit. I believe Home Depot or Lowes may have them. I get them from my local Snap On tool man. A regular Snap On screwdriver may even work better than a Craftsman or brand X screwdriver. Jason
Thanks for the suggestions so far.... But for those that mention grinding/cutting a slot in the head of the screw...... I would be VERY scared to try that. These '67 rear moldings are made of unobtanium and I don't want to risk slipping off the screw with the cutoff wheel and marking the moldings. :shock:
theres a set of 67 wheel opening trim listed on the board right now for 200.00 and if it's in good shape it's a good deal.
Adam, I'd have to dig through a few inches of rust to get at them from the inside. ou: Bob, I saw that ad earlier tonight. That is a pretty good deal for someone if they are in great shape. Allthough the moldings are made of chicken lips, they aren't really that pricey because of the lack of attention the 67's get. I bought this car basically for the moldings, a few emblems, misc other small parts and the chance that it might have a posi in it... which it doesn't. o No: :laugh: I figured I could sell a few things off it to help offset the cost.
I always use an 1/8 inch drill bit and drill the screws out. works on rust and age and doesnt damage the moldings
Tool There is a tool to do that, doesn't always work, but was available at Eastwood Co, at one time cause I have one. So check out Eastwood
Really? When i took off the chrome trim on my Riviera's rear quarter, the panel was rusted but i managed to get the screws out or they came off with the whole assembly. I'd go with Adam's vise grip if you can, maybe if you not planing on keeping the quarter panel you could hit it with you fist a few times to loosen stuff up. But you'll have to clean your floor later on from all the rusted metal, dirt, and junk that comes loose. Or..........a sawzall to take part of the panel off, maybe 3+ inches away from the trim. Goodluck. :TU:
I'd drill it without a second thought. I have a friend who was Crew Chief for a Huey Cobra (read- a pretty damn good mechanic, in my opinion), and he makes a little concoction from lapping compound and Comet scouring powder that does wonders on stripped screw heads. You mix up the compound and Comet, and smear it on the screwdriver tip. Gives the screwdriver some 'bite' But I would hazard to guess in this case, rust has too firm a grip on the screws
I think I have some "easy outs" or "screw extractors" now that you mention it. I'll give them a try before breaking out the drill tomorrow. Roberta, are these what you were talking about? I'm 99% sure I have a brand new set and have never used them. Linky Chris... Thats a new one for me. Never heard of making a little "sticky goo" for the end of a screwdriver. Sounds like it could work sometimes though. :beer
Rick, Before you try any of these tricks go out and get a can of PB Blaster at "Home Dopey". Spray the snot out of the backside of the fenders and quarters to dissolve some of the rust. Then take an old philips sd and a hammer and give the screws a few taps with the screwdriver on a slight angle in several directions. Then the screw extractors should work without problem. P.S. Watch the fingers!! :Smarty:
AMEN to PB Blaster !!! And here is another tip that I did not see yet that works WONDERS. Tighten the screw first - SLIGHTLY... This is using the other side of the slots, and will break the screw free, then remove it carefully and easily. It really works like a champ. Best wishes, I believe with these two techniques, you will be taking the screws out like a pro. Mike
Ahhh yes... PB Blaster! I forgot about it. I know I have a can somewhere, but most of my shop stuff is still in boxes from the move. I'll definately dig that out tomorrow. Thanks again :TU:
Your local parts store will have it and another can will not hurt to have around. Heck, I believe I have 4 cans on my shelf. That way, if I misplace it, I am not getting all bent out of shape. LOL... Mike :beer
Just drill it out. The phillips head slots make a perfect starter for the drill bit. Should take all of three seconds per screw, once you get the tire off.
