Can any one tell me how to remove rear axles from a 10-bolt 1970 Buick GS? I have removed the bolt and pin , but whats next? Seems different then the 12-bolts I am familiar with. Thanks as always for help and advice from this forum..
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?247367-HELP!-How-remove-Axles&highlight=remove+axles Just read the link....is a big help.
If it's the original 70 GS rear, it's a Buick 8.2 10 bolt, and it has bolt in axles, not C clips like a 12 bolt. All you need to do is remove the 4 nuts on the retainer plate. Then reverse the drum and use a few lug nuts to bolt it on. Then use the drum as a slap hammer, and the axle will come out.
LArry, Got to watch using the drum as a slide hammer you can easily bow the center of the drum which will cause a vibration issue ...USe a old drum if you have one or a chain bolted to the lugs etc. If those axles have NEVER been removed this could be quite a chore... Sometime they remove real easy...ALL DEPENDS on the rust area of your residence. Ohio, we have HUGH salt rust issues.
On my 69 the pin was held in by a roll pin not a bolt, well, it sheared off allowing the pin to walk out enough while cruising so it could hit the inside of the housing breaking off a couple inches of it and everything fell out of the carrier and that was that. The 430 had only been in the car for a few weeks and who knows if the pin was galled before or not does not really matter now. Glad to hear yours is in better shape.
Yes what happens here is the fluid got built up with lots of floating metal silk then someone probably did a good one wheel burn out and the metal started to acually weld the cross shaft to the ID spider gear cause the spider to spin the shaft and shear the roll pin then not too long down the road it worked itself out and BANG there's where you are NOW. Sorry to here it. I have a complete spider gear system for that open diff with roll pin cross shaft everything. Jim
Thanks for the offer, but I should have mentioned this was years ago, and OH yea some peg leg action did it in. I knew it would never hold anyway and besides the right set of gears and posi for those are big bucks and I found a 12 bolt for $800 that I freshened up and put in. I did not want to spend almost that much just setting up the 8.2 when I could have something better altogether for not that much more, and for me it did not matter if my car kept the original rear end as it was not a GS or anything. And a little bonus was that this 12 bolt is an inch narrower than the stocker and already had bolt in axles, it did not look like it was shortened but it could have been, I guess an el camino rear end is narrower to begin with, at least that was what I was told.. And of course over the years I nice moroso brute strength posi, new 3.73 gears, and strange axles, found their way in. Thanks again for the offer. Paul.
thanks for everyones advice/help. Axles came right out when you know what your doing... Does any one make a rear differential cover for the 8.2 rear diff and also the rear cover and axle flange gaskets. Sorry about being so neady..
Yes- We have t/a cover for 159.00 and chrome cover for 27.50 and the flange gaskets which really not needed. Jim
I'm having the same problem the axel just won't come out. I been ringing the drum like a bell with a hammer all day and I'm not getting no where. I tried the reverse drum technique and nothing happen.
