Regular or Synthetic Oil - What are you using and why?

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by r0ckstarr, May 25, 2009.

  1. r0ckstarr

    r0ckstarr Well-Known Member

    Which is better to run in the Nailheads? Regular 10W-30 oil or synthetic? Which brand? I've always heard good and bad things about both, and have always stuck with the same regular Castrol because of this. I'm coming up on my 3 month mark for an oil change and thought I would ask.

    And, while we're at it, list your oil filters. I use the AC Delco PF47's.
     
  2. 64Electra225

    64Electra225 Highway Bomber

    I'm no expert, but I use regular ol' Castrol GTX.
    I figure they've been using regular oil in cars for years now, so it's gotta be ok, right?
    I change my oil on time, everytime... so maybe that's why I haven't had problems.
    I also wanna know what everyone else is using on here.
     
  3. Junkman

    Junkman Well-Known Member

    I am switching them all to synthetic. Sometimes I won't start some of the cars for months and the synthetic stays good for a long time. I haven't started my '65 Electra for over a year and got around to running it last week. Still sounds good with 3 year old Mobil 1 in it. No smoke. Clean on the stick,too. Has less than an hour of run time that long.
     
  4. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    no matter what you use be double sure that you put in zddp additive....
     
  5. r0ckstarr

    r0ckstarr Well-Known Member

    I've never heard of it until now. I did some googling in case anyone else wants some info about it.
    http://www.zddplus.com/

    Can this be gotten from the local parts houses?
     
  6. Junkman

    Junkman Well-Known Member

    While changing over to synthetic,I also add STP treatment because of the ZDP. Even add it during every oil change on my 2003 pickup. Guess that's one reason the engine still runs/performs like new with 255K miles of hard use. No leaks at all,either.
     
  7. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    I have used 15w-40 diesel oil since the 1980's.

    Now, I add a bottle of ZDDP Plus to every oil change, due to the reduced levels of zinc.

    I prefer Shell Rotella and Wix or Baldwin oil filters.
     
  8. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    The oil companies have given us the fat weenie again,,,,,they have removed the zinc from the oil and did not tell it.... the claim is that it is because of the gvt. regs..... also claim it is because the factorys went to roller cams and it is not needed.... either way , the people like us who are running flat tappet engines got left hanging out to dry....so we have to protect our selves... no matter what oil you use , if you want to be safe.... put zinc in every oil change....
     
  9. 64Electra225

    64Electra225 Highway Bomber

    Valvoline VR1 Racing oils have zddp and so does schaeffers oils.
    (20w50 for sure. I'm not sure about the lighter oils.)
    I can buy the valvoline from checkers, and schaeffers from the local 'so-cal speedshop' (even though we're in vegas) :grin:
     
  10. 66GS401

    66GS401 Well-Known Member

    That's right the VR1 does have the ZDDP in it. And if you look around it can be bought for the same price as regular oil. I got some at schucks for the same price as standard Valvoline. I was told that any oil labeled "Racing or Heavy Duty" was not required to remove the ZDDP.
     
  11. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    there was a thread awhile back several months ago about oil with zddp back on the self...atleast at walmart..it wasnt the typical known brands though and it was the typical wights...10w30 10w40
     
  12. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    This has been discussed on every automotive forum I visit.

    The "zinc additive" is for high-pressure wear resistance. And the highest pressure/highest wear area is between the camshaft and lifter.

    If you aren't using heavy valve springs, you won't need as much high-pressure additive.

    If you have a camshaft that's completely broken-in, you won't need as much high-pressure additive.

    If you have an engine with roller lifters, you won't need as much high-pressure additive.

    If you have an engine with roller lifters and stock valve springs--you don't need much if any high-pressure additive; which is why it can be reduced in modern engine oil and most folks don't know the difference.

    Worst case: NEW cam and lifters, HEAVY valve springs and NON_roller lifters.

    While I'm not thrilled with the viscosity range, (generally 15W40) the "dual-rated" "diesel" (but being dual-rated, they're also approved for spark-ignition engines also) oils like Delo, Rotella, etc. generally have plenty of high-pressure additive for broken-in cams used with stock or near-stock valve springs.
     
  13. trisheildfan

    trisheildfan Well-Known Member

  14. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Amsoil is great stuff, but......

    Very expensive at >$8 a quart

    Not available locally means shipping $$$

    The Rotella I use is about $3 a quart down at the local parts place.

    I can change my oil 2x and have $$$ left over versus Amsoil.
     
  15. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    I've heard that switching to synthetic once a motor has used conventional oil can often result in leaks, due to the synthetic oil molecules being smaller and it causing seals to shrink. Any truth to that?

    I've run conventional Valvoline 10w40 the past couple of oil changes.
     
  16. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Been hearing the same since the 1980's and have yet to see it. I've had several happy converts as customers, even high-milers.

    I am a strong proponent of synthetics but have recently (too late in my case?) realized the importance of the zinc/phos content, which varies independent of brand or type, synth or not.

    Devon
     
  17. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Interesting. That's really been the only thing stopping me from making the switch. I think when the motor goes back in it'll be filled with synthetic.
     
  18. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    I say switch, and don't fall for the sales pitch of frequent changes. The synths have quite a long lifespan where crude-based may not, but keep in mind that a car's engine that's not run often, or run often but not warmed up, will still suffer engine oil oxidation that can definitely take it's toll regardless of oil type. Moisture and acidity can be killers.

    If you get leaks from synthetic that you didn't have before, switch back to crude-based oil, or fix them.

    Devon
     
  19. r0ckstarr

    r0ckstarr Well-Known Member

    I changed oil today and used Castrol Synthetic. Maybe it's just me, but at idle the motor sounds like it's running a bit quieter.

    The local NAPA was clueless when I asked if they had any ZDDP oil additive. I'll check another place tomorrow.

    Also, wanted to update and correct myself. In my first post I said that I use PF47, it's actually PF24. PF47 goes to a car I owned 10+yrs ago. Why I remember that and not my current is beyond me.
     
  20. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Brian, not everyone is an authorized dealer for ZDDPlus. Support a Buick guy and buy it from Greg at www.gesslerheadporting.com or compare prices on ebay and Google Shopping to get the best deal if you can't find a dealer near you. There are only two distributors listed on their website, http://www.zddplus.com/ for some reason.

    Devon
     

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