I have an 83 regal with a 455. i am looking to put in a cage and mini tub or full tub the car if i have to. I plan on running a 9in since there is no point in cutting the GN rear in the car now. i will probably run a 4.11 type gear. I plan on runnig 32x14x15 Goodyears on 15x14 centerline wheels. My question is where to start i guess and what the best way, hopefully not the most expensive way to do this is. I don't know much about this kind of fabrication so if you need more info to help me out please let me know. Thanks Dustin
Cage yes. Tubbed~ not really needed. Do you realise how fast you can go with a 10" slick? I've personally seen a GN run 8.40's@ 170 mph with a 30" X 10.5" tire. No 9" rear, not tubbed, just 'massaged' meaning, rolling the lip on the fender and clearencing the frame a little. And for those in the know, it was Terry Houstons car.
I have already rolled the fender lip on the car to clear the 9.5 inch width slicks that i ran last year. My friend Jim runs 11.37 in the 1/4 he runs 30x10x15 inch hoosiers and he consistantly spins a revolution and a half at launch his 60's are only 1.55's. He also has more weight over the back than i do. Thats why i was looking to step up to a 32x14x15 on a 15x14 wheel. Then in the next couple of years hopefully one, when i run 10.90's i won't have to worry about tire spin. The other reason is to lower the car over the tires for a lower center of gravity and to improve my launch. Thanks Dustin
It's all in the set-up. You can spin 14x32's also if you don't have the chassis set-up right. There are lots of 9, 8, and 7 sec cars running 10.5" slicks. Heck, that guy in New Jersey has gone 7's with a stock suspended Mustang on drag radials! Not to brag, but I just finished my latest car (72 GS), stock-type suspension, GSM legal. I set it up in the shop based on previous experience. I've only had it to the track once so far. First pass was staight as an arrow, 1.52 - 60'. After 5 passes without touching the suspension I went a 1.46 - 60'. I have since readjusted the suspension (IC point) and I expect to go low 1.40's now. Did I mention I'm running 9" slicks? Not to sound harsh, but, if you cant put a "stock suspension" A/G body in the 10's and 1.5X's 60 footers, then you shouldn't be messing with a backhalved car. Understand the science, know what's happening, make it work, THEN step up. I'm just trying to help you not waste alot of money. I've been there. If you still want to know, S&W Racecars makes a back half kit that is pretty "simple" to install. (If you know what you're doing.) Have fun.
If anyone was in BG this year you would have seen that red GN with the 10 inch tire run low 8s. It was a pretty consistent car as well and I think it was one of the first times out if I remember right. It all really depends on you and what you want. You make the final call for your car.
Jeff the thing that i don't want to have happen is waste the little money that i have. I didn't want to buy all the stock type suspension upgrades and still have tire spin. A friend of mine has a GN that has the capabilities of running in the 9's. He runs a 30x10.5x15 hoosier slick he has pretty much the best of everything on this car. He always loses because he spins off the line! The car has never been in the 10's even but his dyno sheet says 891hp! My new motor should easily push my car into the 10.80 range. That is why i thought of tubbing the car. If you can lead me to some suspension parts that will help to avoid his problem i would be happy to stick with a stock type suspension. Thanks Dustin
OK, I understand where you're coming from, and I really hope you don't think I'm being hard on you. One thing you have to understand is, you can have all the best parts, but if you don't have it set-up right, it won't work. Here's a basic recipe. There are upgrades, but this is the basic: REAR Box lower control arms. Install urethane bushings Install No-Hop bars (not sure who makes for G-body) Air bag in right rear Comp Eng 3-way adj shocks Factory anti-sway bar FRONT Moroso trick springs Comp Eng 3-way shocks Urethane bushings, greased and set-up loose. Weight bias is important on these cars, put as much in back as you can. The front end should move freely, with lots of travel. After that it's all in the set-up. You have to understand how a chassis works. Before you start building, get ahold of a book by Dave Morgan called Doorslammers: The Chassis Book. Read it, understand it, know it backwards and forwards, sleep with it. The GM A and G bodies are basically 4-links, with fewer adjustments. I could go on and on about set-up, but once you read the book 5 times, you'll be on your way. I guarantee I could put the above set-up deep into the 11's with a 455 in a Regal, maybe even 10's. If you want a package deal, look into Dick Miller, Metco, or HRParts... Their stuff works, but you still have to dial it in. Remember ... IT'S ALL IN THE SET-UP
Off your list these are the things that i have already done REAR Box lower control arms. Air bag in right rear (11lbs) Comp Eng 3-way adj shocks FRONT Front V6 springs Comp Eng 3-way shocks no sway bar Right now i have 31.8% over the rear tires battery relocated and 3 gallon fuel cell all preloaded to left side. left side weighs 47lbs more than right. I appreciate your help because i really don't know much about this stuff. i will look into the other parts you mentioned and i am getting the book tomorrow if i can find it. Thanks Dustin
It sounds like you're on the right track. Here's some suggestions. I don't know the specs of the V6 springs, but you should look into the Moroso springs. You aren't looking for just a light spring, you want a tall spring to store up more energy. Then get your front ride height as low as practical to get more travel. The stored energy will try to pick up the front end quicker on the launch. You should put the battery on the right side (passenger side) of the trunk. The left rear suspension tries to seperate more by itself. The right side squats. A factory rear sway bar will help this as well. Try to get more weight in the back. Do you have air conditioning? Take it out. Look for aluminum bumper brackets. Didn't GM put aluminum core supports in some of those cars? You might need to jalso add a 100lb lead bar on the rear frame. Remember, you don't have to set the shocks the same on both sides. Set the left rear for stiffer extension and the right rear for stiffer compression. Set the front shocks for loose extension until you start getting too much chassis twist, then you can start tightening the left front extension to "tie down" the left front. Wait until you're hooked good to do that, though. That's all for now. Have fun.
Jeff on the battery position i thought that if i put it on the drivers side that it would give me better traction since the car is already trying to shift the weight over the right (pass) rear. I am adding a second battery in the back and i will put it on the right. i was just curious though. A/C gone, power steering gone, both bumper's are just shells with mounting plates, no inner fenders, fiberglass hood, welded in some bars to tie the frame together in the front and rear for less twist. i will try to take some pics to show you and you can tell me if the idea was right. Thanks for all your help Dustin
I agree with the small tire deal. Put the power to the track instead of wasting it turning huge tires. A ladder bar is a great way to go to get things straight and fast. You can do it with a stock style setup but in the end it cost the same amount of money for either and I think the ladder bar is more simple and easier to get right and go straight. I feel the ladder bar saves alot of money over back halfing a car.
Thanks for your help guys i think you have convinced me to stay with the small tires. I see that the money will be about the same but in the end it makes more since. Thanks Dustin
