I am going to rebuild my front end shortly. Have a nice disc brake setup ready to go thanks to 10sec455. I have a set of KYB's for the front (already have new KYB's in the back). The Springs already in the front of the car are newer from Moog I believe about 3000 miles on em. I have been thinking Tubular front and lower control arms from CPP? Are they worth it??. Then maybe all the rest of the front end parts from NAPA? trying to be as economical as I can even with Tubulars, Thats Why I don't want to spring for the Global West tubular's as they are much more. Anyone else done this type front end rebuild or close to? I am looking for a little better ride control then stock would be with not trying to spend too much. Thanks for the input Mike
spend the money on a good steering box instead of the arms. unless your going to really crank turns or road race not really going to feel a difference with just bolting on tubular arms.
There are 3 basic advantages to going with tubular control arms, strength, weight and improved front end geometry. I have GW uppers and all the rest of the stuff that goes with it. The main advantage for me was to get disk brakes, and to improve the steering geometry. With the GW and other conversions that change to a tall spindle you can get negative camber and positive castor. I run about 6* castor with my setup and this gives a the car much better tracking. As far as steering box if you can find one out of a Jeep Grand Cherekee they work perfect in our cars. You will have to change the pressure valve in your pump and find a rag joint from a 80's 2 wheel drive Chevy pickup. The best bang for the buck is to go through the stock front end, put in all new moog bushings, tie rod ends, center link and idler arm. Add a good set of shocks, a fast ratio steering box, upgrade the sway bars and some 235 or 245/15/50 tires and it will drive far better than it ever did stock.
Question Doug, Why just tubular Uppers and not lowers? I have seen others do this as well, why not tubular lowers as well?
I just replaced the front drums with disks off of a 71 lark, bought a front sway bar off of a 78 Trans Am, and replaced all the bushings and ball joints with new Moog parts. I also put polyurethane sway bar mountings in as well. Drive, turns and stops like a new car. When you corner, it no longer feels like the car is going to tip over. I think I did the whole things for probably two hundred bucks. But I lucked out having a friend who gets me deals on parts and finding the 71 lark set up for free.
BTW, those sway bars are all over the Transam boards, I think with shipping it was $50. They are 1 1/4 " think and hook perfectly.
updating one of my older threads. I went with CPP tubular upper and lower control arms (they come fully assembled with bushings ball joints etc..) for my 71 Skylark. Also installed the 1.25 front sway bar from a scraped trans-am (cleaned it up and paited it). While all was apart installed front disc brakes lines, proportioning valve, master cylinder, and ditched the drum brakes. just drove it back from the alignment shop with and extended tour and WOW does this biatch handle! VERY VERY nice handling car now for the better. Firm but not harsh ride, NO body roll going into either high speed turns or low speed. My alignment guy was also very impressed with the handling who could't beleive it! was a nice project that I am very happy with and high reccommed if you are thinking of going this route. Everything bolted up nicely. Only thing different i had to do was mount the proprtioning valve a little higher on the frame so to stay clear of the headers. Will post some pics later tonight:3gears: :3gears:
a put a few new pics of the front rebuild in my photobucket. also how the new stance looks. went with a thinner front tire now as well http://s349.photobucket.com/albums/q361/kick71/
After doing some homework i found this out..... i have done several frame ups and bought stock control arms that have been blasted, painted and ready to load up and go. These people aren't redoing stock control arms anymore. Not cost affective. You can buy a complete front set of tubular control arms, all bushed and ball jointed for 399.99. At that price you can't go wrong. Improved geometry as well. Someone told me the front wheels sit funny at the curb...............has anybody used these and have any complaints? And what about the new aftermarket stock type control arms, are they weaker or not a good stamp? Even they are over 500 now. Any input is appreciated here, i have a frame that i am ready to start building.
i know.. old post but, is there any downside to running the SPC prolight (adj. uppers over the regular steel version? it's only like 40bucks more but since its billet aluminum not sure if the weight savings will sacrifice the strength/ long-term durability for a street/track car and should i opt for greaseable racing bushings or high durometer rubber bushings
