I have a 70 SF39. Have not been into it yet, appears to be original. I would like to build a 400-450 HP streetable motor for my conv. All of my rebuild experience is with stock stuff. (Buick 350 and a couple of Ford 351's). So I have some experience. However I do not know where to start with a build up. Any advice, suggestions, or what you have done to yours would be appreciated. Thank you
Hey John.My 462 pulled 420 horses on the dyno,very streetable.PM me if you want the boring details..:laugh: Glad to share!! Later,Tony.
Here's my build and some recommendations: completely balanced - don't scrimp here!!!!!!!!!! zero deck the block align hone mains TRW forged 10:1 pistons casting flash removed if needed, do valve guides ported timing cover by Jim Weise at Tri Shield Performance adjustable oil pressure regulator - and screw it in so 1/4" of threads are exposed Teflon-coated double-grooved TA Performance cam bearings points to HEI conversion by Dave's Small Body HEI's used as a trigger only to spark an MSD 6AL new rod bolts resized rods bored .030" over to 462ci *open up all your oil passages to 5/8"* new 5/8" sump new balancer TA Performance 1125 dual valve springs (had to have heads machined for them) main studs installed TA 288-94H cam cam specs are: Duration at .050" is 230/240* Lift at .050" is .515/.525 with 1.6 rockers Ground on a 116* Lobe Center Installed on a 108* CenterLine porting the heads will do wonders for performance Rollmaster double roller timing chain with TA crank gear 2.5" exhaust at minimum Now, here are some glitches to watch out for when having your Buick engine built: * Unless the builder is a known Buick builder (like Tri-Shield Performance, PAE Enterprises, AM&P or PeeGee Performance) you will need to walk them through every step. My first engine builder thought he knew it all. It turns out he didn't know anything! * Behind the cam timing gear there are 2 plugs. They block the end of the lifter galley. Be sure they are pressed in NO MORE THAN FLUSH with the face of the block. The main oil feed runs right up to the front cam bearing behind the passenger-side plug. Every millimeter beyond flush that plug is pressed in will be limiting oiling to the entire motor. * Be sure your engine is hot tanked and cleaned with brushes. * Be sure the cam bearings are pressed in with the oil holes at the 3 O'clock and 7 O'clock positions. * Be sure valve tip height is a maximum 2.100". * Rod and main clearances should not exceed .002", and .015" is ideal. * Balancing your assembly costs about $225 and it is worth every penny you spend! Be sure the shop knows how to correctly balance an engine! * Check the main bore for alignment. If it is off have it align honed. Some others will add their ideas too I'm sure.
John.Jeff`s post you should print.He added some more great details I may have missed :TU: Do it right for peace of mind!! Later,Tony.
