Hi, my 401 from my 65 Riviera has been taken apart and we found that it is in dire need for a total rebuild. Where can i get the best parts for this? I need everything but the cranksince my engine builder has never built a 401 are there any things too look out for? Any special tips? This is going to be a stock rebuild so i am not too concerned with getting more power than stock but if you have some tricks that free up a few hp i would be open to suggestions Thank you!
To my knowledge there is no ''kit'' ..... you have to pick and choose..... use tri clad bearings... like... CL 77's,,, install new cam bearings,,, use all steel T/C and gears.... new oil pump... like melling.... new cam and lifters.... and good gasket set... hot tank everything possible,,, clean the insides of the rocker arm shafts with simple green and a rifle brush....there is a ton of crud in there.... do the usual , run a tap thru all the bolt holes.... blow everything out with compressed air ,, install new freeze plugs everywhere... you can make a cam reaming tool out of the old cam , so dont throw it away... ck. the previous posts on how to do this.... now is the time to clean it all up and paint everything under the hood.... BTW all 65 rivs had 425's in them from the factory.... if yours has a 401,, it has been swapped in....
The answer is that I would not give my engine to someone who is not familiar with Nailheads. There are many traps and pitfalls that a Ford/Chevy/Mopar builder wouldn't know. Give Tom Telesco (telriv) a call in Stamford, CT even if you only want advice. He knows Nailheads better then some of the engineers that designed it. He also sells custom-made pistons for the Nailhead that are so beautiful you hate to hide them inside your engine. I was (and am) seriously considering purchasing a ninth piston just to hang on the garage wall. There are nuances concerning crankshafts (you want a standard journal diameter if possible), heads, (don't even think about installing hardened valve seats), and many other areas. Ask me how I know all of this. Hint - Tom did the second overhaul of my 425. ou: It now runs as it should.
my 64 had the 425..... And,,,, I might add,,,, do not,,, do not,,, ever build a nailhead ''loose'' like people do chebbys ..... they will not last good at all.....
It is common practice here to build hot rod engines ''loose'' increasing the bearing clearances to gain some performance... bearings rattle, pistons click, ect.. when they are idleing.... Dont do that with a Buick engine,,, build it to stock clearances and then ''break it in'' for 1000 miles before nailing it for the first time.... Doc...
John, could you explain why not to install hardened valve seats, please? I would have never known not to do that. Thank You.
The heads are very thin in that area, so machining for hardened seats could very likely lead to a water leak. It's also been reported that Buick used a higher nickel content in the heads, making them very durable.... they should resist valve seat wear under normal operating conditions. In summary, For most conditions, hardened seats aren't necessary in a Nailhead and can do more harm than good.
In the old days, to save a head you heated it red hot , very slowly,, and then built the valve seat up with weld and then cooled the head very slowly and recut the valve seat in again....and that's the way it was , movin west.... :Brow:
Thank You. Learn something new every day. I have been using Marvel (or lead additive) in both our '65 Skylark (300) and '62 LeSabre (401).
On my 401 it was the valve's 45 degree cut that was worn, not the seat cut! All valves and seats were original with GM stamps. My point is that hardness on valves must "fit" seat hardness for longer durability, when you get larger ones. Some of older engines had 30 HRC seat hardness, so the valve hardness must not be way to high, and so they can last pretty long, even without lead additives, though they are said to help significantly.
The '64 and '66 Rivs came standard with the 425 Nail in '65 the 425 was optional with the 401 being the standard engine in '65. Sounds like you have a well optioned '65 there doc!:Brow: Derek
Do any of you know this company? www.nailheadbuick.com Egge machine is also selling a complete rebuild kit for the 401 Kit Number: BU401M Are they OK? I need to order somewhere...
The first link is Centerville Auto Repair, often referred to by the owners name, Russ Martin. He is knowledgeable and known for selling quality products, and one of what probably amounts to three trusted sources (the other two: Carmen Faso at 716-693-4090 and Tom Telasco at 203-324-6045) As far as Egge goes, they have gotten some negative reviews from users here on the board, especially in relation to their pistons. I'd do a search on Egge here before I spent any money. I'd ask Tom, Russ or Carmen to put together the parts you need for you, which would serve almost as a kit. The benefit is (at least in my case) they knew what I needed better than I did. And the build support knowledge is invaluable. That's something you will likely not get from Egge. Good luck!
