Reblt Carb back, still running a little rough

It is a 2brl. Running better but still rough idle and runs a little rough as you up the RPM's. Looks like I might be able to adjust that out with the two idle/mixture screws on front lower carb. Which one does what? The shop tested the carb on a live motor and says they adjusted them but it still runs a little rough.

 

Why are you assuming it's the carb that is the problem? If they adjusted it properly, I would not tweak it until I had gone through the rest of the ignition system and compression tested the engine, and checked the advance mechanisms(Vacuum and mechanical).

 

Exactly
Check all your ignition components
Check for a vacuum leak around the base of the carb (maybe wrong base gasket)

 

Check the tightness of the carb bolts.

I had a base gasket that was tough to seal.

Could be a vacuum leak there.

 

I had a new distib (TA Perm electronic ign and coil, wires, plugs) put in it buy a diff shop (before this new one after TC cover was installed I had the old distrib timed, turned out that one had a bad vac adv so I replaced the whole damn thing) and they said timing was set correctly. I will go through checking for vac leaks, I will look at the bolts holding down carb which is sitting on the correct gasket. I am going to see if intake is leaking, replace all the vac lines.
After that I am taking it out of the professionals hands and have my uncle help me do compression check.

 

I went though and put new vac lines in, tightened down the carb a little more. While it was running I sprayed carb cleaner at base of carb/gasket, intake/gasket , etc. At no time in doing any of that did the rpm's drop when I did it, kept same idle. Not that it is a real big test but I pulled all the plugs wires at distrib one at a time and some of them I could feel the motor change "sound" but with the way it is idling or even running if I throttled it up a little it was hard to tell a huge diff. If any one plug that seemed to make no change when I pulled the wire was the front drivers plug. Under throttle it feels fine, seems to run fine but let out of the gas to very light throttle and you can feel it running like ass. I guess I will do a compression check next. Will a compression test catch a burnt valve?
The rabbit hole gets deeper. The one good thing in this all is my over heating has stopped. i have driven it a good amount, does not go over 185.

 

If when you disconnect a plug the running of the motor does NOT change, that is the problem. Pull that plug and look at it and you should see that it's gas fouled...

 

Do you do a compression test on the motor that is cold or at running temp? I googled it but seem to see two diff answers to that question.

 

I read that you pull one plug check it, put plug back in go to the next one. All of this with fuel source disconnected and spark unplugged.

 

You keep the motor turning over until the gauge stays at the highest read out correct?

 

The plugs I have in the car now are new. But one note about a gas fouled plug. When I pulled the ones that had been for some time in the car they are all a white ash like color, zero dampness any found via gas look to me. No messy stuff on it.

 

Prev post said to check the plug on the cyc where I did not feel a diff when I pulled the wire. Check that plug to see if it is gas fouled. I was just saying that when I pulled the prev plugs to replace they all were fine.

 

So I should be able to pull it now and it will show evidence of fouled gas plug, I don't need to run it do I? I would think not.