Rear window vent panel removal, 1969 Riv

Anyone know how to get the rear panel out? between the rear window and the trunk lid? I removed the screws and trunk lid but this thing is not budging. Ideas? tons of pine needles hiding in there clogging the drain tubes.

 

Sorry, havent removed mine before...but...you can post pics now! Let us see some if you get time, I live for 68 69 buick pics

 

I'll try to snap a few tonight, it almost seems as if the lower window trim clips are part of it... I wonder if they are?

 

I believe that they are but not 100% sure

 

To remove that rear window vent panel, the rear window trim, and possibly the rear window glass may hafta be removed too. :eek2: :shock: ou:
The louvered panel is held in place with 10 screws - the lower 5 screws can be accessed quite easily via the trunk opening, while the upper 5 screws, (...that may be covered by the rear glass), do have slotted holes for the 5 mounting screws. The rear window lower molding clips are attached to 'T' studs, spot welded to the upper edge of the vent panel.
Vinyl top cars had an embossed steel panel to match the pattern of the vinyl covering material, while non-vinyl cars had a plain steel panel. They both have a course screen insert to keep large pieces of debris from entering the 'flow-through' drain vents at iether side of the upper trunk opening.
I will post a pic later. :TU:

 

I saw a guy who had actually cleaned that whole area up, he removed the vent and covered it with a solid piece of metal to make it look like it was never there. It had shaved handles and everything so it helped with the look he was going for. Seems like it might be a lot more trouble then its worth though

 

:TU:

On my '70, the butyl rubber sealant used for the glass was covering some of those screws, and had a good hold on the panel itself.
So, you may have to do some digging get the panel off.

 

good lord... sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen. I may have to wait until it is time for paint. Thanks guys!

 

Here's some pics of a panel Rob - removal can be really easy, or a proper PITA !!
Just pop your lower rear window trim to see what your up against. If the upper screws are exposed, and they didn't get too generous with the rear glass adhesive, you may get lucky. In any case, those pine needles should be removed from the area, as they will trap and hold moisture, and we all know what happens to unpainted metal surfaces, exposed to excess moisture for prolonged periods. :af:
Be very careful working around the safety glass too, as sometimes a tiny chip can become a disaster !!
. . . do keep us posted on your project. :beer :TU:

 

I believe '70 Rivs, and some Toronados had the same panel without the louvers Adrian, so he may have used one of them?
'66-'69 Rivs all had the louvers for the 'Circulaire' fresh-air ventalation system which supposedly eliminated the need for any vent windows in the front doors. :TU:

 

Correct. My '70 doesn't have the louvers. It is partially covered by the vinyl top material.

 

You're awesome!, that will definately help :TU:. If the rain ever stops I will give it a shot. Any tricks getting the lower window trim off without destroying it or the clips? All my old GM's trims fell off due to the rusted clip nail fasteners, so I never have tried to pull trim off.

 

I had my rear glass out and didnt even think about pulling that piece of trim off for paint and cleaning. The installer used that thick black butyl caulk in a tube to put the glass back in. When I changed the color on the top I cannot get the panel off due to the glass being on top of the screws. Randys right, A Royal PITA!

 

The trim will come off fairly easy, using a clip removing tool - but no guarantees on the clips though. They are spring steel and quite prone to rusting over the years. The small 'T' studs holding the clips are also prone to rusting too, however, they do make repro nylon clips that can be screwed into position. I replaced all of my originals with newer style nylon clips. :TU:

 

Just so you don't feel too bad Steve - I removed the vinyl top, and all the associated trim, but I could not locate a non-vinyl panel,
so I used the original embossed steel vinyl top panel with lots of filler. When my rear glass was reinstalled, the installer partially covered all those top screws. :af:
I have since obtained a perfect non-vinyl replacement panel per my pics, but will hafta pull the rear glass again,
just to exchange that f#####g panel.
. . . arrrrrrrrrrrrrgh, 20/20 hind sight !! ou:

 

Randy, im removing my vinyl top trim too, how did you get that big "r" logo off the sides?

 

Adrian, I used a couple of 1/4" drive swivels and a 3/8 socket going through the courtesy light holes on the sail panel. It took a little while and I wouldn't try to do it when the car is out in the sun. You'll bake like a lobster in there.

 

Thanks Briz,
Im changing the headliner anyways so maybe Ill do it then and itll be easier to access? o No:

 

Steve did it the 'hard' way Adrian - If your going to remove the sail panels, and all the water absorbing, cardboard, filler pieces behind them, you'll have clear access to the two retaining nuts through the access holes in the sail panel brace. You then have the option of filling the holes, or putting the emblems back on the car. I had them filled, and for a 'custom' look, added some late model, self adhesive, Buick tri-shield emblems that closely match the tri-shield emblem on the rear marker lamps !! :TU: