Hello, I have a 68 GS 400 that came with a 8.2 10 bolt open rear and have another complete 68/69 8.2 posi. with 2.91 gears. My question is what is the easiest way to swap the rear? I want to use everything from the old rear on the posi. rear, like the brake lines backing plate, drums, and axles. I thought I would just take out the axles and drop the rear in the car then reinstall the new rear with the old axles and backing plates/brakes/drums.?? Any tips would be appreciated. thanks David Roth Ok, maybe someone can tell me how to take out the axles? Thanks David
That's how I nearly always do rear swaps, at least on well maintaineed vehicles... No brake lines to open so no brake bleeding The swap... -remove bolt-in axles (four 9/16" headed nuts holding axle retainers, will reach through access hole(s) in axle flange) -loosen tabs holding brake lines to housing, -bump the 4 T bolts per backing plate back toward center of r/e (don't lose them). -hang up the entire rear brake line & attached rear backing plates with 2 hooks (can be coathangers) -unbolt & remove old r/e -slide "new" r/e up under car on floorjack -jack up & carefully position "new" r/e -On A & G-body r/e's another trick I use is to use blunt philips screwdrivers in place of the control arm bolts when 1st getting the "new" rear positioned, then come back in with correct bolts. -attach "old" backing plates & attached lines. Of course if rear brake shoes & cylinders need replacing, will go the full 10 yards. Also always smart to ck the rear rubber hose, if it's 25-40 years old, it gets replaced & brakes get bled. Also ck axle studs, if there 30-45 year old originals, replace them. Usually best to attach r/e in following order... upper control arms, lwr control arms, slip springs in, jack up, attach lwr shock nuts, next bolt-in axles, slide drums on. If bleeding brakes do so, after sliding brake drums on. Good luck! :3gears: Roger
thank God for Roger!!! One thing Roger, after I take out the 4 bolts that hold on the backing plate, do the axles just slide out? And when re-installing them how do I know when they are in far enough? I am about 99.9% sure that I am dealing with two of the same type rears and that the axles will swap. Thanks for the help! David
David, Hello, no problem. After removing the 4 nuts per retainer, I often place my big picklefork between the wheel cylinder & the axle flange & just give the balled end of the picklefork a good bump with the heal of my gloved hand. Am not doing this right now as my right forearm is giving me fits (too much throwing batting practice). If the r/e is an old salvage yard core, the sealed axle bearings may have a lot of varnish on them & then one will have to get out the big hammer & pop the picklefork in the same spot... just using it as a lever to knock the axle loose. A slide hammer with screw on axle fixture, will also work, though in the field I usually don't have my slide hammer with me. Again, good luck, its not that bad once you get the hang of it. Roger
thanks Roger! Roger, Thanks and I will post again after I finish. I greatly appreicate your help! David
