rear main seal advice

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by darrenkp, Oct 21, 2003.

  1. darrenkp

    darrenkp Love that Torque!

    Well, it looks like the rear main seal on my '71 350" has about had it. I've been noticing a little oil coming from the torgue converter cover for awhile now, and after a 300 mlie trip this past weekend, I was dangerously low on oil and there was a small puddle on the ground. So, I need to know my options for fixing it. I know I can put a rope seal in it while still in the car, but I'd rather use a neoprene seal if I can. Can these be installed with the engine in the car. This engine is strong and otherwise in good shape, so I'd rather not pull it just to replace a lousy seal.
     
  2. Mechanic friend and I did the rear seal on my 71 350 block this summer. He insisted on pulling the motor for this job, and was glad to have done so. We ended up having to loosen the main caps, and he had to screw a removal tool into the top half of the old rope seal and REALLY work at it to pull it out. This seal would not have come out if we hadn't pulled the motor.

    We also installed a TA neoprene rear seal for a replacement.
     
  3. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    rear main seal

    the easiest & safest way to replace the front or rear main seal is with the motor out of the car . yes u have to loosen off the main cap bolts . i too used the t/a neoprene & that was in jan 2002 .
    at that time i replaced all the seals & gaskets in & on the motor , and also cleaned & repainted the engine .

    i believe that someone on this board stated that t/a no longer supplies the neoprene main seals . does anyone know if that is correct ?
    also check that the intake manifold is no leaking at the rear .
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2003
  4. Re: rear main seal

    News to me. I just bought mine this summer from TA.
     
  5. custom sky

    custom sky Generally Nice Guy

    I don't know if TA still sells the rear seal or not. Give them a call. If they don't you can still find it since it is a FORD seal. The part number is D2VE-6701-AA. I hope this helps and good luck.
     
  6. Buick Power

    Buick Power Well-Known Member

  7. darrenkp

    darrenkp Love that Torque!

    Thanks for all the info, guys. Looks like I'm for a major project. I have been thinking about detailing the engine compartment this winter. I guess I can pull it and do both at the same time.:TU:

    Just curious Dave, what is the reason for the center punch marks?
     
  8. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    a little different take on this. i just replaced my rear main seal with a TA neoprene a couple months ago.
    i put my car up on GOOD jackstands, put a jack under the front of the engine, took out the oil pan bolts, took out the engine mount bolts and raised the engine slightly and slowly. oil pan will come out. i was lucky that my old rope seal came out without too much trouble. put the new seal in as per TA`s instructions and put it all back together. is this the best way to do it? i dont know but it worked for me. the cramps in your neck from laying under the car go away in a couple days:grin: and no more leaks. thanks TA. BRAD.
     
  9. grnlark

    grnlark BCA 34303

    I agree that it would be easier to pull the motor, but not necessary. You can do it in the car by lifting the motor and dropping the pan. It's not going to be fun, but it is able to be done. If you have access to a lift, you'll be all set - jackstands and a cold garage floor might suck. I know Poston also offers the neoprene seal if TA doesn't
     
  10. GSmycarsfast

    GSmycarsfast Buick Enthusiast

    TA Perormance is the only place I could find the seals at, I tried the rope seal when I replaced mine and they didnt work. I agree I took the bolts out of the motor mounts jacked the engine up took oil pan bolts out and wrestled it out, wasnt an easy process but it does work I think I paid 15-18$ for the seal from TA Performance
     

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