Hello Fellow Buick Enthusiasts; In 1958 Buick Engineering adopted the use of air-cooled aluminum Front brake drums with a radial fin design and cast iron linings for faster cooling of the rubbing surfaces giving Buick superior braking. My question is? Were Aluminum Drums ever retro-fitted for use on the Rear Axle? There are two (2) types of Aluminum Drums. One type has 45 Fins per drum. The other has 90 fins per drum. What is the Difference between the Two? Can These Aluminum drums be adapted for use on a '56? Are the Shoes the Same Size and of the same Composition? The '56 has a mongrel Braking System, unique to that singular year. I'm looking at improving the Stopping Distance and was wondering if the Aluminum Drums covited by T-Bucket Rodders would be an Easy Modification? Also do the Aluminum Drums require lug nuts or Lug Bolts which are used on the '56. If there are any Fellow Members who are Knowledgeable on the Subject of Aluminum Drums, I would be endebited and greatly appreciate any/all information regarding this topic. o No: ou: uzzled: Thanking You in Advance for Your Usual Fine Participation involving the Subject of Aluminum Brake Drums. :TU: :TU: :3gears: :beer Tom Gallagher
Buick used lug studs in '59 and lug nuts by '64, so they changed some year in between. BMD changed the drums from 45-fins to 90-fins for '65 I believe (I know '64 is 45 and '66 is 90). I don't know what other changes --if any-- are involved. '59 uses ball bearings and shortly after Buick changed to roller bearings, but I believe this is all accomplished thru race inserts. Not a factor in this case anyway. As for putting aluminum drums on the rear, you have a few obstacles: 1: drill out the rivets & remove the bearing carrier, 2: make sure the center hole in the drum will fit over the axle end (machining it larger it is a possibility), 3: make sure the aluminum drum will fit against the rear backing plate (this is most likely the biggest obstacle, as (for '59 anyway), the front shoes are .25" wider than the rears... assuredly so are the drums. Not sure how this could be overcome; it may be the downfall of your quest. I have never heard of anyone attempting this. Technically, the majority of braking effort is on the fronts (56% / 44% in '59), and the rear do not face the extremes that the front do, which is why they always get 'left behind' tech-wise. I bouught Kevlar-impregnated shoes for my '59, but it's not on the road yet so I can't report personally on their effectiveness. Bu I've only read good things about them. If you are experiencing brake fade, I have an article on drilling iron drums to improve braking- it's pretty interesting. Is all the hardware & shoes in good operating condition?
Hi, Mark! I Want to Thank You for You Post, which I found Very Informative, and a Quite Detailed Explaination. Your Knowledge, Experience and Technical Know-How has given Me a Real History Lesson. I'm in the process of working on the Brakes. The Car has been Idle since 1970. The car does stop but I haven't really given it a good test. Fuel System Problems. I have attempted to remove the drums for inspection, but I haven't been able to break them loose. I've used lots of Pb Blaster and tapped with a hammer. They seem to be Frozen around the Center Hub. I thought about the Aluminum Drums in the Front to Improve Braking. I thing those drums are rusted on so tight that they make crack or break when I Really get Serious as Time and Money Permits. The '56 is a Mona Lisa, Mongrel Braking System, Unigue to that Year only. Rebuild Kits for Power brake units a expensive and few and far between. The 56 Required Long stopping distances which I wanted to Improve. I knew Buick Engineering Finally made Improvements 2 years later in 58 with the Use of Aluminum Drums in the Front, which I thought that I might be able to retrofit. Finding Aluminum Drums that have enough Thickness remaining will be quite a feat in itself. I imagine once I'm finally able to get the Drums off, the Wheel Cylinders will be Toast and I'm not really enthusiastic about 48 year old Brake line. I'm going to do this Once and do it Right. I'm open to any/all suggestions You may have and it is a job I can do in the winter months which are quickly approaching. :TU: :TU: :3gears: :beer I genuinely Thank You for Your HELP! and for Your Time involved in giving such a Detailed Explaination. Highest Regards, Tom Gallagher
aluminum brake drums I have put the later (1964) aluminum drums on the front of my '55. I kept the hubs from the aluminum drums as they accept roller bearings and this is a great improvement over the ball bearings. I did not go with the wider brake shoe which would fit in the drum yet but will in the future. All I did was take measurements of the inner and outer races (the size of the spindle where the bearings ride, and the inner drum where the races seat) and went to NAPA. They were able to get the right bearings with out a problem. They only real work was to cut/machine the original inner bearing-inner race to keep the new inner bearing in place. I took the inner race (from the orig bearing) and removed the portion the bearing actually rode on. This leaves a spacer to keep the new bearing pressed into the race and also a surface for the grease seal to ride on. I have been running them for three years and am very happy with the braking and also the feel of the roller bearings. It was a great and cheap improvement.
Aluminum Drums Hey, Joe Thanks for the Response. The Set-Up You have sounds pretty straightforward. Napa was able to make an Easy Substitute? You Mentioned Machining. o No: How difficult an undertaking is entailed? Do Your Drums use lug nuts or lug bolts. How hard is it to find drums with enough meat left on them? o No: Thanks for Your Valued Information, Tom Gallagher :TU: :3gears: :beer
Tom, I use NAPA for all my 'difficult' parts. You know when the guy at poop boys asks "what is the application?"-don't bother. NAPA was able to find bearings very easily, and they told me that new ball bearings would have cost more than the rollers because many companies have stopped producing ball bearings due to lack of demand. I can't remember which sets I used, I think it was 1 & 3 or 3&5 (that is how napa listed them by number. If you have the old inner bearing inner races, just have someone with a small metal lathe take off the part that the bearing actually rides on- the smaller 'step'. I did mine with a die grinder and micrometer and it took a while but they are less than .001 off and have not given me any problems. I have 1964 drums and they are normal lugnuts but I put helped a friend replace some on his 1959 and his finned drums had the bolt style. some of the later (maybe 65-66) have smaller inner flanges (where the wheel actually rides). As far as finding some with enough meat... that can be difficult. You may want to invest in a cheap set of drum calipers or large dial calipers to take with you to swap meets. It is hard to look at them and know what the specs are at unless you have seen enough to know what tick ones and thin ones look like. I see them all over but the prices have started climbing cue to there popularity with old style hot rods. The later style with 90(?) fins can be found cheaper and will work every bit as well. I am very happy with the results one my car.
Aluminum Drums Hi, Joe Again Thanks for the HELP!. I have been using a small Indepedent Parts place for 25 years. I even have an account and they give me a good discount. If I need a part, I L@@K Up the number from Napa or advanced and they are able to get it for me. Fel-Pro Gaskets not a problem. IF I were to walkin to a Napa store and say I need a carb kit and a dashpot for a 56, with a Carter 2400S they would be able to accomodate me? Many times a counterman has to spend considerable time looking through old parts books, sometimes with results, sometimes come up empty. Then the next time I walk in they have the "here he comes again, What a Pain in the butt" expression on their face. I try to get what I can locally but sometimes I'm force to go to Speciality Houses. I'm able to acquire the part, but I'm usually missing an arm or a leg. :jd: I know I have to get my Fuel Pump rebuilt. it still has the original diaphram and is corroded so bad it looks like its been sandblasted. Again, I Thank You :TU: for Your Help and Assistence :beer Tom Gallagher
If you need, I do have a nice set of front drums from my 1960 4739 still tucked up in the attic. Mark
