HELP!!!!!1970 BUICK Sky Convert. RALLEY GAGES ou: I have come across a factory ralley gage set up to replace the idiot lights set up. I have some issues here with the wiring configuration.....nothing matches the wiring diagram and it does not seem to match the pins on the gage either. In order for the terminal to fit on the pins, the first terminal that has the GRY wire is off the pin. I have extra wiring harnes and they too are the same as I have. The terminal in the car, as well as the extra harness I checked is configured like this: GRY>GRN>BLUE>TAN>PINK.BRN.TAN/WHT. My wiring diagram contradicts this, and has the expected wiring as follows: GRY>TAN>BLUE>TAN/WHT>PINK>_BRN>GRN. What do I need to do here. The correct solonoids are installed and I am ready to go, but the damn wiring does not jive. HELP!!!!
Check this out George has tons of information here http://www.buickperformance.com/rallygage.htm Hope this helps. Good Luck Bert
oil gage pegs, HELP??!! ok, I followed the re-wiring operation and everything works but the oil gage pegs immediately when the iginition switch is turned on. There is no sign that is even trying to be operational. Any body know? The gage pegs even when not connected to the (correct) sending unit....is it cooked?
Are you sure the sending unit is the big cannister type for the gauges and not the smaller idiot light type?
not a sendsing unit issue I am pretty certain that it is the correct sending unit. Unfortunately, I have ruled out a sending unit problem since the needle pegs when it is not connected. I turn the key to "on" and it pegs.
Make sure the unit has not been apart & put back together incorrectly. Notice on George's site the layout of the resistors. The one on the RH of the pic can actually be mounted on the two posts which are at 90 degrees from correct. This is for water & my first unit was put back together wrong. Water pegged as soon as connected. Double check your configuration again on the dash harness & how you changed the wiring. Often a second pair of eyes comes in handy. Also check under the hood for "creative wiring" by a previous owner.
still scratchin' o No: Steve Original message>>> Make sure the unit has not been apart & put back together incorrectly. Notice on George's site the layout of the resistors. The one on the RH of the pic can actually be mounted on the two posts which are at 90 degrees from correct. This is for water & my first unit was put back together wrong. Water pegged as soon as connected. Double check your configuration again on the dash harness & how you changed the wiring. Often a second pair of eyes comes in handy. Also check under the hood for "creative wiring" by a previous owner. MARKO>>>>Steve, thanks for help, but there is no incorrect wiring under the dash, and, since I disconnect the sending unit and it still pegs when the ignition is on, what wiring under the hood would matter? I wonder if the gage is smoked? The needle moves back to a neutral position, as does the water gage when there is no ignition switch power, and the water gage works fine, as does the gas gage needle. The gen lite works too. The brake lite does not function properly, however, it does work with 12 volts.???? JunkMan Original Message>>> Did you get the short "jumper" harness with the rallye cluster? MARKO>>>>NO, I do not have the jumper.I performed the re-wiring option as outlined in the instructions. I triple checked my re-configuration of the dash wire socket. I would very much like to own one, if anyone has one..PM me.
Did you use teflon on the sender threads? I read somewhere to use thread sealer to allow the sender to ground to the block. o No:
now that is strange....... come to think of it, I did use teflon tape...I wonder why teflon would enhance the conductivity or promote grounding?????wouldn't the unit have a better ground without a layer of plastic between it and the block :Smarty:
Put a volt/ohm meter on the oil sender, and see if you get a linear change in resistance with varying oil pressure, or an on/off change in resistance.
I copied this from another post "teflon tape reduces or completely negates any ground that your sending switches require, if they have single wire connections, use a thread sealer." Now whether or not this has anything to do with your issue is another question.
Got it!! :af: I traced the sending unit blue wire back and found it mostly broken, made repair and that was that!! Thanks guys for the tips. I hope this helps other folks down the line. :beer
