Okay how did you remove the rust on your frame? Sandblasting, dipping, grinding, etc? How much did it cost? then did you powder coat it? how much was that? Another question, How do you get rid of rust that is inside the rails though. You know how some of the frame is open and then some is boxed, how do you remove the rust inside the boxed sections. Thanks
I did my 64 Wildcat. First sandblasted, then powercoated . About a grand as I recall. Hardest part finding an oven big enough. Dan
less than a grand (canadian) sandblast and powder coat. You may want to try find an dry southern state frame if yours is holee or really rough, once they start blasting it can get nasty. Think of it as the foundation of your house, if you don't have a good foundation no point in redoing the drywall...
When the customer had $$$, we had the frame dipped then meticulously cleaned and sprayed with epoxy primer. We built a spray wand from a six foot piece of brake tubing that was pinched at the end to get into the boxed areas. Flipped it a few times on the rotisserie so the primer could flow and drain. Once cured, we used PPG's Deltron single-stage urethane enamel. I have no idea what this would cost these days...that was twenty years ago! Devon
Thanks for the info guys. Less then a grand seems okay for sandblast and powder coat, as long as their are no problems within the frame. I haven't seen holes so far.
I would get the thing diped cleaned and diped coated so rust inside and out is cleaned and blocked. Just blasting it and coating it to look nice isn't enough. you could have some nasty cancer just waiting to bust through. Its like floor pans, folks think just coating the outside is enough when 90% of the time they rust from the inside out from years of wet feet that soak the jute padding that holds water like a sponge.
Thanks 70sLark, you answered some of my next question. I also wondered why some people would fix the floors, leave some surface rust spots behind and just place new carpet over that. If you have surface rust on the floor, do you sand it to bare metal or use por15 of some sort, then paint the rest of the floors and move on to the carpeting, etc.
Hey bigmike, I bought the two part Rust Converter from Eastwood. ( http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C389%2C390&KickerID=408&KICKER ) They advertise that it "converts the rust into Inert Black Oxide". I got it for the inside frame rails for my boxed frame. It should do a nice job on floor pans and trunk floors. I don't have a rotisserie to rotate the material after spraying it in (as did Devon years ago), so I am wondering if anyone thinks a sprayer (like this: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100580000&N=10000003+501830+90002 ) would work. I am wondering if I can thin the Rust Converter enough. And then after that follow it up with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator - also applied in the same method - assuming thinning. Any thoughts out there?
For the frame - (firewall back) about 2 months of scrapping, grinding, cursing, wire brushing, sanding, degreasing, and priming, followed by several applications of Black Tremclad rust paint. For the floors, inside and out - wire brush, primer on bare metal and new 3M seam sealer followed by an application of 3M Black rubberized rocker guard paint with a 'shutz' gun on low pressure. This was all done 'frame on' with drive shaft, exhaust, gas tank, fuel lines, brake lines, and emergency brake components off the car. The front fenders and rad core were off the car and all the front frame components from the firewall foreward were sandblasted to remove rust, primed with epoxy primer, and sprayed with Black Tremclad rust paint. A very big job and a lot of work, but well worth it, as the car looks just as good underneath as it does on top ! :TU:
What was the epoxy primer part number or name? My blaster blasted my frame then put on two coats of shermans williams epoxy.It concerns me that a primer was not used , he said that his product is a two part epoxy sprayed on the bare metal with two coats and thats it.Did you use an epoxy paint too? What was the name of the product ? Thanks
I swear by PPG (used to be Ditzler) DP-40 w/DP-402 catalyst. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6624 Devon
Thanks guys for the replies. Didn't know this thread was still going. What about rust under the hood, like this?
Old threads never die Mike, just like your Riviera ! Most of that rust is surface rust and the best way to eliminate it is to remove the hood and have the underside sand, or media blasted. Follow up with epoxy primer/sealer and a good coat of black paint. Semi gloss for the 'like new' factory look, or high gloss for that 'show car' sheen. Check with some of the local body shops in your area. :TU:
Thanks for the reply! I was thinking of sanding it? or is it better just to get it media blasted since its quicker? Then I'd go with the Semi-gloss for factory look like you said. I like the cars looking stock/factory. Edit- Actually, I should go with media blast like you said, since it'll probably save me much time instead of sanding.
If you look real close you'll see that there is some rust between the 2 layers of the hood which would be almost impossible to get at by sanding, or wire brushing, coupled with the fact that sanding would be long and tedious, and you never really get the pitting completely removed. While some of those areas will be covered with hood insulation and would not be seen, the rust really never stops ! I think media blast is probably the best answer to solve your under hood surface rust. Do it right the first time Mike ! :beer :TU:
Isn't it "Sherwin" Williams paint? Their car product parts are pretty new to the market, I think. I bet there is not much history with them yet. Dan
it is an epoxy paint that is sprayed on the sandblasted metal with 2 coats,and thats it,when i painted yrs ago,I used primer,then paint,here it was 2 coats on bare metal,a product he used on industrial tanks and more,so I am not sure if he just did not want to go get the items I requested,or if mastic is just that good.After being in the business for 25 yrs,out of it for 13 yrs,I find it hard to trust others to do what I want without being there to watch,but its done,looks ok,but wouldnt do it again.$420 to blast a frame,control arms and 32 other parts then paint,,,,,ok I guess.
