Not a chassis car but I figured you guys would know. I'm looking at QA-1 Stocker Star adjustable shocks for the GS. Are these good for a combo street/road car and then suited for adjustment for the strip? What kind of combo adjustments work for each application? I'm guessing real soft in the rear for the strip (no idea on setting the front for the strip) and firm it up on both ends for driving attitude on the highway or in the twisties. This is a 90% street/road car and maximum 10% strip. Much more concerned with performance in the corners than at the track. They're spendy but I'm going the full-on Global West by adding the tubular lowers (already have the GW uppers). Considering either just the QA-1 shock or possibly the GW/QA-1 coil over for the front ($$$). P.S. Steve at GW says KYBs are "old tech" and don't work as well as QA, Edlebrocks, or even the Gold series Monroe. I did notice VERY slow return on the KYB when compressed. Thanks.
If buying any QA1 product I would suggest you check on racingjunk.com for the guy that sells them for discount price. Cheaper than summit and jeg's on everything by a fair amount. I bought through this guy but don't remember his name I think it is Louis. I got mine the next day after ordering direct from the manufacturer. I have the QA1-R on the front of my 68 GS backhalf car and just went 1.297 60' without a trans brake with a 464 iron headed motor. It takes some time to get adjusted but they are awesome once you figure them out. I think the stocker star would be good for street but the R is a race only like a 90/10 just adjustable.
Softer in the front makes the front rise faster for weight transfer, I had to tighten mine about 5 clicks as car would leave hard then unload between 60' and 330'. Tightening the shocks too tight left the front up too long and felt weird driving down track, found the happy medium after lots of runs. Back shocks on mine are set full soft, tightening them seams to help it hook for the first couple of feet but makes it bounce down track, felt like riding a bull out about 200' couldn't even run it any farther. I don't know if there is a rule of thumb on this just what worked for me, I think every car is a little different or there would be no point to adjustable shocks. I also found that adjusting front shock rates can alter my reaction times a bit for those times when I am consistant but wrong on the lights.
I just bought a set of front ones off a board member. They should be here Friday. I hope to have them installed Sat. and then do some tunning. This is for my 70 GS, mostly street car.:TU:
Mine work nicely on the street. They ride and corner "good" and adjust well for the strip. They probably aren't on par with a set of koni street shocks when it comes to handling, but there's always compromise, right?
The adjustable shocks will not replace the air bags. The shocks control speed of movement the air bags control direction of movement. Without the right air bag the car will still twist.
Gary, I'm running the QA1 in the rear of my car and have air bags at zero. I am using the HRpartsNstuff anti-roll bar that is a bolt in application, this bar stopped all twist in my car, it comes out level and dead straight! and I have heard that it is well accepted on the street, koni 90/10 in the front ( not for street) I am at zero clicks on the QA1's and have a best of 1.49 60 ft. so there is something that Dennis H. knows about leaving that I don't! Best of luck with your combo, mine weighs 3665lbs, alone, and 3880 lbs. with driver thinking of pulling the air bags, as they don't really work with the HR bar now, no more twist in the car, photo ops are now boring. But I know my car is going straight! Bruce
Bruce, after looking at your combo I think I'm going to go the same route as you. I'm starting from zero, so I want to do this once and right. The HRpartsNstuff anti-roll bar looks like the ticket, along with the shocks. With this alone, would it be better to use no-hop bars, or just use the upper control arms by themselves? I was thinking of replacing the uppers with ones that are stronger, but leaving the factory boxed arms on the bottom. Thanks
Gary, Mine are the ones that only adjust the rebound damping. Whichever one that is.... I still have the NAPA replacement shocks on the rear of my car that Mildred Krmpotic (correct spelling) had installed in McGill, NV.
After all this I might end up with Edlebrock IAS shocks. I'm really a lot more concerned with the twisties than the track. Guess I could buy some el cheapo rear shocks for the track... yeah, that's it.
Rob, I also have the no hop bars on my car as well, HRpartsNstuff upper adjustable and solid lowers that are 1/4'' longer than stock Bruce
