Put on a new "used" carb, bogs at full go.

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by EEE, Dec 10, 2005.

  1. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    I picked up a carb from a junk yard 73 Electra that I recently put on my car. It is an improvement over the original one when it comes to making power, but when floored and reaching a certain rpm the engine goes "bbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" it's a real even sputtering and it only happens under full load and when you get the revs up a bit. The car stops accelerating and just continues to bog/sputter, making that noise. If anyone has an idea of where to start looking, that would be much appreciated.
     
  2. Da Torquester.

    Da Torquester. Platinum Level Contributor

    Sounds like the engines not getting fuel. Is your fuel pump old? Might want to check it. New one shouldn't cost much. John :)
     
  3. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Fuel pump is only about six months old, but it doesn't hurt to take a look at it.
     
  4. Da Torquester.

    Da Torquester. Platinum Level Contributor

    One other thing to check would be the fuel line going to your pump from the tank. Make sure there are no kinks or sharp bends. Also check the float level in your carb. John. :)
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Did you rebuild the carb? It may not be getting fuel like John said, but it could be inside the carb itself. Float may be set wrong, etc...
     
  6. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    I was messing with the fuel line a year or so ago, when it got the new pump etc. I more recently dropped the tank, and put new hoses on it, I think it should be ok. It didn't have this problem with the previous carb, so I think chances are that it came with this new one.

    I'm looking in the Doug Roe book on float level, but I can't make much out of it.

    "Float level, Hold the rear of the float down on the fuel-inlet valve and check the float level with the gage furnished in the rebuild kit. If adjustment is required, bend the float arms at the adjustment points next to the power-valve well. Use rebuild-kit or shop manual specifications for the correct dimension."

    Ehh..

    Is there a trial and error on this one?
     
  7. WE1

    WE1 Well-Known Member

    Kimson:

    To set float: gently push down on aft end of float (metal part near pivot point) until the needle just contacts the seat. Push right in the center of that metal part above the needle/seat and hold down on the pivot bar with one of your fingers. Then measure the distance from the top of the main body of the carb to the very end of the float.
    Something to check though before you dive into the carb: Is the secondary throttle shaft opening? Is the upper secondary air valve opening? Is the secondary hanger raising the sec. rods up? Is there a filter in the inlet at carb body? Easy fixes to each of the above, let us know what you find.
     
  8. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It's also possible that the secondary air flaps are opening too fast or too much.
     
  9. Joe Kelsch

    Joe Kelsch Eat Mo' Rats

    This is what I think it is. There's a spring that helps control the air going into the secondaries. You can adjust it with a allen wrench and a screw driver. Look on page 138 in your Doug Roe book. There are three pics of what you're looking for on the top of the page.
     
  10. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    did you take the stock fuel filter out of the front of the carb?
     
  11. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    My suspicion is the cam operating the metering rods for the secondaries. If this is the problem, it will not be unique. It happens quite frequently, and causes the metering rods to rise insufficiently, causing lean mixtures. Check this: with the engine off, open the air valves on top of the carb. If the metering rods hanger moves only slightly, it is the cause, and will require the replacement of the plastic cam located between the air valves. Ray
     

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