I am to the point of pulling the engine on a 67 GS 400 that I am parting out. The driver's side frame rail is completely rusted away, as in GONE except for the top surface next to the floor pan. Obviously I don't feel safe jacking the car up and crawling around under it when carpet is probably the only thing holding the underside of the car together. What's involved in removing the engine but leaving the transmission in the car? I can see 4 bolts that attached the transmission to the engine from the top, I think I can cut the exhaust pipes away with a reciprocating saw from the top. Is it as simple as disconnecting everything I can get to from the topside and then pulling the engine forward, away from transmission? I have removed the front clip so I have pretty good access to everything. On a related topic, I wasn't able to get the passenger side valve cover off without removing the entire AC assembly from the firewall. Is there some secret to removing the passenger side valve cover on big block cars with AC?
Best bet would be to just pull the trans mount bushings and cut the trans lines and pull the Assembly otherwise you will Need to go under the car
It can be done, but there are more than 4 bolts that attach the trans to the engine there is another at least 2 bolts but maybe 4 more with a total of 8(or 6) that holds the trans to the engine. After those are out you'll need to pull straight forward more than just the length of the dowels though, you'll need to pull the toque converter out of the trans because that will still be bolted to the flex plate. After you pass that you should be good to go. If its a manual trans, same deal it needs to be pulled forward until the trans input shaft is clear of the clutch. GL Derek
If the floor is pretty well rusted away why not cut out the floor along the driveline and free the whole setup from what is left of the frame and floor? You would then be able to get at everything from the top. There isn't a lot to be removed, the crossmember can be removed, or cut if everything is rusted. It should come out pretty easy and would be easier than trying to get the transmission freee from the engine. Lou
To do it right you'll need to get under the car to remove the bolts from the converter and get the lower to bell housing bolts. Make sure you remove the ground straps from the back of the heads. Im with the others. Just pull it as a unit.
I am not worried about the rusty body as long as the frame is solid and find heavy chunks of wood to protect you in came things go south.... Big blocks of wood under the car are a good option as they cannot tip over or fail the way a jackckstand can. Removing the engine: #1. Drive the car up onto the ramps [2/3 of the way into the garage] #2. Dis connect the battery #3. Get under the car and remove/dis connect the following: working from the front of the car back: *both fuel lines from the frame [flat head screw driver] *both motor mounts [9/16 wrench and socket w/ extension] [nut and long bolt] *both sides of exhaust [pipes from manifolds] [9/16 deep socket w/ LONG extension and breaker bar] *Starter [remove wires first] *Torque converter cover plate [3/8] Place 15/16 socket w/ extension on a ratchet, and put it on the large nut inside the balancer in the front of the engine to spin the engine [clockwise] for the following *All 3 bolts connecting torque converter to flywheel *Remove the 4 lower bolts connecting the tranny to the engine [9/16] [socket w/ long extension, and-or wrench] [tight fit] #5. Get out from under car, gather up everything you removed, separate it, and place them into baggies... Labeled ****NOTE**** Number the baggies also, in the order the parts were removed. Baggie #1 will contain the hose clamps from the fuel lines, motor mount bolts, and exhaust bolts. #2 will contain the starter bolts, cover plate bolts, and torque converter bolts.... etc, etc, etc. This way, when you re-install, it's easy to work backwards. Also, dont put similar bolts to different components in the same bag. For example, the intake manifold bolts are very similar to the alternator and P/S bolts, so baggie and number them separately. #6. Place the items removed, and the corresponding numbered baggies on a shelf, or in a corner... Neatly laid out, and in the order they were removed. #7. drain all fluids from the engine. #8. Roll the car back off the ramps so it sits exactly 1/2 way inside and outside the garage, and clean up any mess from fluid removal. [2 person job- safety] #9. Use the marker to trace around the hood hinges, and around the bolts holding the hood to the hinges. this will help to re-align the hood during re-assembly. #10. Place a soft blanket on the roof of the car. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hood to the hinges, and place the hood [gently] on the roof. [9/16] [2 man job] [baggie and label] #11 Remove the air-cleaner. Tape the nut to the top of it, and put it on the shelf #12. Start taking pictures. Lots of them. Be specific. Both sides of the carb, wiring harness route, vac line assembly, front accessory assembly, etc, etc. ****NOTE**** From here on. "Baggie, Label, and Place on shelf" will be expressed as "BLS" #13. Starting on the drivers side, remove the #1 plug wire. Write "#1" on a piece of tape, and wrap it around the wire close to the plug end. Repeat for #'s 2, 3, and 4 on the drivers side. Then write "Drivers side" on a longer piece, and wrap together all 4 wires going to the drivers side. Repeat for passengers side, labeling #'s 1,2,3, and 4. Then remove distributor cap with wires still attached and place on shelf [flat head] #14. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses, as well as the 2 heater hoses. Label each one. Place rad hoses on shelf. Use a piece of rope to tie heater hoses to pass side hood hinge. #15. It's time to start labeling everything. use a piece of tape to make labels for the entire vacuum and wiring system. Start with the wires you removed from the starter. Reach down behind the pass side valve cover and pull them up and Wrap with a piece of tape labeled "To starter". Follow the wiring harness from this point. Every time a wire comes out of it, and attaches to something, make another label... "To A/C compressor", "To Alternator", "To negative coil". Every time you label something, dis-connect it. Continue until the entire wiring harness is free of the engine. Next is the Vacuum system [which is actually quite simple] Every vac line you see, label first, then remove. Make multiple labels for each piece if necessary to show which end goes where. Continue to take pictures if something looks as if it may be complicated to re-assemble... [BLS] [tie the wiring harness to a windshield wiper] #16. remove the P/S pump ASSEMBLY from the engine, and tie it to the hood bumper on the drivers side. [9/16 and 1/2] #17 Remove alternator, BLS [9/16 and 1/2] #18. remove A/C compressor ASSEMBLY [that means brackets still attached] and tie it to the hood bumper on the pass side. [9/16 and 1/2] ****Remember to BLS the bolts to each individual assembly**** ****Snap a picture or two each step of the way**** #19 Remove the "hard" [metal] fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the carb. [BLS] [photo's] #20. Dis-connect the throttle cable from the carb, and remove the 1/2 inch bolt that holds the cable assembly to the intake manifold, and tuck it up inside the wiring for the windshield wiper motor. Then dis-connect the "down shift" cable that runs from the pass side of the carb down to the tranny. Next Remove the 12 [9/16] bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine. Leave the carb and all the doo-dads attached to the intake. Dis connect the small tube that goes from the back of the water pump to the thermostat housing. [BLS] Place a pry-bar down into the thermostat housing and *gently* pry the intake loose from the engine. If you encounter resistance, double check for missed bolts. Remove the complete intake system, and shelf it. ****Your getting close**** #21. Using 2 of the short intake bolts, secure the heavy chain [or engine hoist strap] to the rear most pass side intake bolt hole, and the front most drivers side bolt hole. Leave enough slack so that when you lift it, there's about 10'' of clearance. [double check over-head clearance inside the garage.] [get the bolts tight... for safety] #22. Remove the radiator top cover plate [8 bolts, 1/2]. Wiggle the fan shroud loose, and lift the radiator out of the car. [carefull, it's fragile and expensive] [BLS] #23. Jack the front of the car up... Not much, and place pieces of the 2 X 4 onder the tranny pan to support it once the engine is removed. Lower the car. [the engine may lift off the motor mounts... That's ok] #24. Get the engine hoist into place, and connect it to the chain. #25. pump up the hoist to ever so gently support the weight of the engine. #26. Remove the last two 9/16 bolts on the top of the bell-housing connecting the tranny to the engine. #27. Double check, and triple check for anything still connecting the engine to the car. [probably a ground strap, or something overlooked... There's always something] #28 Pump the hoist until it FULLY supports the engine. Use a pry bar or screw-driver to get the tranny to come loose. #29, Lift the engine until l there's room to get the fan shroud loose. Shelf it, and remove the engine. #30. Place the engine inside the "old tire" on the floor inside the garage.
A lot of you must of missed him writing that the front clip is off, making things VERY accessible, except for maybe the bottom engine to trans bolts? But probably can still be reached. Also the torque converter even bolted on to the flex plate can still be pulled out of the trans, although a jack to hold the trans up would be a good idea to help keep things inline while they are being pulled apart. Oh yeah, trans fluid WILL leak on the floor doing it this way, but it can be done. Derek
