Slow progress on the 455 motor /4L80-E transmission... It's nearly impossible to find the 2 wheel drive from 1999 and up at the salvage yards. It took a few weeks to find one. Lucky 4L80-E is so easy to identify from the huge size to the unique pan (crosshatching on the bellhousing is unique correct me if I'm wrong). It doesn't take long to look under all the trucks in the yard. DON'T FORGET to look under delivery vans too (that's where I found mine)! I'd post pics, but still under the post count. If you already know how to pull a transmission or you have your own method you can skip this part, but there are a few good ideas. Getting it out is the next step. You need a friend to help you get the 225 lbs behemoth out from underneath. If your yard is like mine jack and the like aren't allowed. Stack spare tires under the trans (since spare tires are narrow you can get close to the height you need). Disconnect the drive shaft and the trans from the motor. Disconnect the flywheel from the torque converter. Use a sling to support the back similar to the front REMINDER put the bolts from the trans bracket back in to keep the sling from sliding off. A seat belt makes a good sling to lower the transmission using the bell housing slide long bolts in the outer most stud holes for the seat belt to rest on. Pull the belt tight and tie a knot. Find a lug wrench to put thru the strap turn just like a tourniquet which will lift the front of the transmission. Now with the transmission lifted off the stack of spares remove one slowly let the tourniquet free the transmission will be now floating just about the location where the tire was find a thin piece (like from the spare tire cover) of foam to put in this gap. Use a screwdriver to undo the knot the transmission will drop onto the foam. I had three tires so I repeated this step again. I just pushed it off the final tire onto a piece of carpet to slide it out and soak up trans fluid. It took a good 4 hours to get this out... Lessons learned way quicker the next time. Next weekend look for the how I attempt to mount this to the 455, and see how it will fit in! Bart
Keep us posted Bart. I would like to have a 4L80E in my 53 within the next year. 1999 or later is that what to look for? Bob H.
Pulling a 4L80-E from a yard Good luck on the project. I had a 4L80E sitting in the back for a while, but just couldn't see solving all the conversion problems. Of course, dollars will solve all problems. Keep us informed how it goes from here. For openers, it won't bolt up to your 455. How will you do the speedometer drive, and the electronic control? Bruce Roe
Re: Pulling a 4L80-E from a yard I've been doing tons of digging, and as far as I know I've got the problems solved... Won't really know till I've got time (a few weekends). Using a TransDapt adapter plate ($100) the bolt pattern is suppose to be the same on the 4L80E as a Chevy TH400 (I didn't have time to even hold the adapter plate up to it). The kit comes with a bushing so you still use the Buick flywheel and the Chevy torque converter. You could also buy a special flywheel that's thick and removes the gap and spacers for the bolts. Might be the way to go haven't looked at my trans yet. There are many different controllers (different costs) for the transmission HGM, PCM, TCI and there a solder it yourself kit. I went with TCI, and I'm thinking I should have gone with HGM a little more pricey. With TCI you have to buy everything separate controller ($750), throttle position sensor ($200) (I'm not sure if you could get this off an engine with a carb and 4L80E transmission), and the wiring harness ($150). I'm going with a floor mounted Lokar shifter, because of future upgrades. I will see how it fits in the Centurion if it bolts up fine. So yes this is a bit costly, but I still had enough for getting my carb rebuilt and other upgrades. You can use your mechanical gauges using something similar to http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html I believe item #6 far to the right can drive a mechanical speedometer. I'm going with an electric gauge. Bart
There is a solder it yourself controller? That sounds interesting. I'd like to do this to my 77 454 truck. Great tow vehicle, but the 3.70 gear without overdrive makes interstate driving unpleasant for several reasons. Maybe it would save enough money to buy the aftermarket tailhousing with the mechanical speedometer drive. I want to keep the stock speedo.
a GPS mounted on your dash would be much cheaper than the tail housing adapter, though not factory...
Yes, lets hear about the solder it yourself controller. There is a lot more aftermarket support now, than when I first looked at it. Bruce Roe
It's called Megasquirt, and I'm sure if you check their website they have way more information that I do. I didn't want to mess with that so I avoided it. I also forgot to mention that you will have to cut your driveshaft to fit the longer transmission. Bart
Some info. I would like to do the same swap on my Centurion. I have built two Megasquirt ECU's and have one EFI Buick and one EFI '67 Thunderbird. For the Transmission controller: http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/index.htm Purchasing the board at the Diyautotune site: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gpio-board-c-77.html Be mindful that I'm pretty sure you need an MSII as well, so the cost is just under $500. Which may not be worth it if you are going to stay with the Carb. The MSII will power an EFI system and/or datalogging system too.
Thanks for adding that extra information SilverBuick, and I haven't forgot about your Centurion. I will have a complete write up about the attempt. Can't wait to get back to it this coming weekend that is if the weather holds. Bart
It looks like you are on the right track but i thought i would add this info in case you or other readers want to hear more about 480LE swaps: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=166567&page=2 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=157013&page=2 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=188996&page=2&highlight=4l80e http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=192914&highlight=4l80e
Those links are good. I have read those. I'd like to add that the 200-4R has a final gear of 0.67 on the transmission so for a cruiser that's a bit better gas mileage than the 4L80-E which has a 0.75 in 4th. I have my motor and trans out of my Centurion. The tail stock isn't much longer than my 400. The transmission mount is about an inch further back. The only problem I have found is that the dowel sizes are different. The 4L80 dowel is a larger diameter. I haven't looked for a dowel yet, but I believe it wont be a problem finding one that sizes down. Looks like next weekend will be the attempt to fit. Also, the 455 flywheel only has 3 bolts for the torque converter the torque has 6 bolt locations. I'd like to find a SFI approved flywheel that has a 6 bolt pattern and that I don't need to use washers for spacing. I'm not sure where to begin looking for this.
the torque conver does have six bolt holes, but still only mounts up with 3 bolts, they are made that way so that they could fit differnt engine/flywheel combos together without having to have a totally diff converter.
I have a poor memory, but I can't forget unbolting 6 bolts from that torque converter. The 60E only has 3 bolts. I don't have a picture of my converter here is an article that has a 80E similar 6 bolt pattern http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/front-page-news/14163-how-4l60e-4l80e-trans-swap.html The input shaft fits perfect on the adapter bushing so it seems to be fine. Thanks for the tips it's appreciated! This is a big project and I need all the help I can get! This weekend looks to be moderate here in NY. Should be dropping the motor in so I can measure how much my driveshaft will need to be shortened. :beers2: Edit: Important if someone else tries this you need to know what kind of yoke you have. The odds are if the transmission came out of a truck it will have a bolt on yoke which needs to be swapped out for a slip on yoke like this http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p69...sion_slip_yoke_1310_series_32_spline_wth.html another good link is http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/699277-whats-needed-4l60e-4l80e-swap.html Bart
I needed to shorten my drive shaft 5". See post 44 .pdf file in: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=157013&page=2 Thanks, Chad
Today I got the transmission bolted to the motor and mounted it in. I was wrong earlier about the dowels being different sizes. Just so much corrosion it didn't slide on. I used Jegs dowels part number 22005 (2-1/4" by 5/8" dia.), but 22006 (1-5/8" by 5/8" dia.) would have worked to an not nearly as long. Sorry about the picture quality. The only clearance issue in the tunnel was with the wired contraption at the gear shift. You can see near the center of the picture the bolt location, and the bracket angled above that. It is hitting at the bend just before the angle of the tunnel. This next picture shows the trans support. It took some time to get it back in had to remove it to fit the transmission in. Once the motor and trans were in I had to jack the tail stock up high enough and slide blocks under the pan holding the trans up high enough so that I could angle the support back in. Right now the trans is just sitting on the support. It wont be that far back when installed. To fit the transmission bushing it looks like I will need to cut the raised part in the center of the support and weld it back at a lower level. The first 2 pictures were from the drivers side The pan sits a bit lower than the TH400 I can't provide a before and after picture for clearance. I wanted to lower the car, but if I put a large capacity pan... I'm not sure if it would be smart lowering it any. I can get the rough clearance number from the ground if anyone is interested. I'm thinking that I got real lucky finding this 4L80E with a slip on yoke, and since it wasn't out of a truck I avoided the problem nekkidhillbilly mentioned. I went in fairly clueless when I got this transmission. I should have this running in a month ray:. Still need to cut the drive shaft, hook up the control unit, and put on my rebuilt carb with the TPS. Bart
Cool! So the dowels ended up being the same? Did you leave the electronic box on the shifter? Is it used for which ever means you are using to control the trans electronics? Thanks for the pictures!
