I have a problem starting my 1972 riviera the only way it starts is when i let off the ignition switch key .when i;m turning the ignition switch key to the right it won't start but when i quit turning to the right it starts any idea what this might be .i'm thinking maybe the ignition switch but not sure just wondering if anyone has run into this problem and what the fix might be thanks
yes the motor is cranking when you turn the key it just won't start untill you let off on the cranking or key ignition
It sounds like the wiring between the full 12 volt feed to the coil and the switch is faulty. Once you release the key and while the engine is still spinning on inertia the lower voltage to the coil comes in and the engine is starting.
There are parallel circuits to the distributor. The one with the pink wire, as I recall, is in the circuit when the key is in the run position. It puts additional resistance in the circuit so the voltage is dropped on order to extend the life of the original points.The parallel wire, whose color I cannot now recall, is in the circuit during the cranking process. Without the additional resistance, it allows the higher voltage to the points and coil during the initial cranking process. The issue lies with this parallel circuit.
yes thats what its doing so what wire do i change and do you know the color, is it the wire coming from the starter to the coil or from the switch or am i completely wrong also its an hei distributor ---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ---------- so what do you do to fix this problem in steps please ---------- Post added at 07:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 PM ---------- so how do i fix this problem please tell me in steps i have a Hei distributor does the wire i need to replace go back to the switch or starter or other
The wiring set up neeed to be modified for the HEI to work. The resistor wire needed to be bypassed. Did you install the HEI? When you say HEI do you mean just an electronic pick up in a distrib or a GM HEI distrib with the coil on top?
You should have one hot wire running to the distributor on an HEI setup. If you wired the HEI to the stock ignition circuit, the lower voltage/current carrying capability of the yellow wire from the starter's "R" terminal will not carry enough current while cranking. Once you let go of the key and it returns to the "on" position, that circuit carries the current to make the car run. So, that's the problem. I rigged a Ford solenoid on my car to feed full battery power to the ignition in the crank mode, and then the ignition runs normally (without the resistance wire) in the on position from another wire straight from the ignition switch.
Its A GM HEI but i never installed it it was there when i bought the car and i tuse to start fine for a year or better just developed this problem so what steps do i need to fix this problem and do you know the color of the wires i need to look for
Disconnect the resistor wire at the firewall if you're not using it. I left mine plugged in when I re-wired for full 12VDC to the coil, and it burned through the wrapping on my wiring harness.
There is a power feed to the HEI. It attaches to the cap, and it is labeled "BAT" Trace the wire back, and see where it goes. You are losing the 12 volts somewhere.
what color is the resistor wire? or whats the resistor wire look like? take in account i have a gm hei ---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:42 PM ---------- if understand correctly i have to find the resistance wire and disconnect from the hei since i'm using a GM HEI distributor i don't need the resistancewire so i just nee dto disconnect it and tape it so it won't short out is this right
like has been mentioned there 2 parallel routes for power to the distributor 1 Ignition switch, which when in the Start position connects a lead from the battery to the solenoid switch, passing through the neutral start switch on the way. During cranking, the ignition switch also connects the battery directly to the ignition coil, thereby by-passing the resistance wire which normally supplies the ignition coil at a lower voltage. 2 In the design of an ignition system, sufficient primary circuit resistance must be present to protect the distributor contacts from excessive arcing and burning. In some ignition systems, part of this resistance may take the form of a separate resistor or a calibrated resistance wire connected between the ignition switch and the coil primary terminal. Since the value of this resistor, along with the resistances of the other components in the entire primary circuit, affects the coil performance at higher engine speeds, a 12-volt coil used on a 6-volt system without the external resistor, will not provide equal performance results. In other words, a 12-volt coil without the resistor is not necessarily a 6-volt coil. During cranking, the external resistance on most applications is by-passed to provide full battery voltage to the coil for improved performance and easier starting. The by-pass wire may be connected to an "R" terminal on the cranking motor solenoid which contacts the contact disk during cranking, or to a separate terminal on the ignition switch, as shown in the previous section. The higher currents during cranking are not sufficient to cause distributor contact deterioration because of the short periods of time in the life of contacts spent during cranking. Also, the lowered battery voltage during cranking causes a lower primary current, so the resistor by- pass feature is an offsetting factor. By-passing the resistor with the engine operating will cause very rapid failture of the distributor contacts. with a hei you donot need the or even want the resistance wire it can be bypassed - see picture pink looped wire I would with HEI remove and the replace wire to coil (keep it valuable to those who like me still have points) see the the thread referred to earlier for HEI wiring However having said there is some other reason yours acting like it is Could be weak battery - not enough for both starter and coil - charge and for voltage at coil wire not running and while cranking _ disconnect wire from coil so it doesn't start. procedure and readings are in chassis manual. Poor connections Battery and or starter. clean repeat check for voltages above. (could be solenoid or starter drag present taking voltage from coil wire also, but since it does start when you release to run, it turning fast enough so doubtful) Bad switch check for voltage at coil wire while cranking -no voltage = switch or wiring in the circuit - Ign fuse. low voltage resistance wire or short in circuit /switch the voltages and other tests for the circuit are in the chassis Manual alos wring diagrams for ignition and primary ignition etc in wirng extract available at http://boattail-riviera-by-buick.com/library/documents/documents.php you'll get pdf version when you register your riv and get the basics entered to you members page (one is waiting for me to approve yours?-next n my list)
picture is my 71 its pink -some one said yellow wire in thread -double check wiring diagrams for 72 (onlty one with the connectors in there anyway.
