Pro-charged 455 build up,need some suggestions!!

I`m thinking of building a pro-charged 455 for street and some strip,can someone suggest what the best build up would be?possibly 500 cubic inches?

Thanks

 

You should probably contact ATI direct and see what they have to say. I also know that one or two guys here have done it. There seems to be lots of work to get it just right on our 455's.

 

sure 500 inches would be good. not a must though. if on gas run compression as low as you can get , run an ignition retard , a cam with a wide lobe center and more exhaust than intake.


Rod.

 

Not a must but i wanna build a 500 cube pro charged buick motor,compression i assume about 8.1 ?what pistons?cam?i will contact ATI,perhaps it would be better to build this with the new block?i dont wanna use block girdle`s or any of that bull$hit.

Thanks

 

What'da need to know..

I built a mild pro-charged 494 this summer..

Pump gas, 238/248/114LC cam, 6psi boost STG 2 SE heads with exhaust porting and bowl job on the intakes.

700 HP/700 ft lbs..

Not cheap.. needs all the goodies to live. This one had it, and the customer supplied the 494 kit and the block that only need a line hone and finish cylinder hone and decking. Tab on that motor, after he supplied those parts, was in the 14K neighborhood. Had all the goodies, polishing and all.


Building it with that new block is a good idea, also I would suggest a billet crank..

But I can get you around 1000 hp on gas.. if your heart desires and your checkbook can handle it.

The above motor, made 845 torque on the first pull with the charger, but we pulled out of it, because I didn't want to scatter that 494 cast crank.. and it had not reached the torque peak yet. That was at about 4400 rpm, and the peak would have been around 5000.

Stupid easy to make power with the blowers.. just need good parts, they will be your limitation.

JW

 

Jim,i`m looking to get alittle more power than my 464 thats in my `67,possibly 600-650 HP?do you suggest a regular 455 rather than 494?maybe Aluminum stage 1 rather than stage 2,how should i approach this,i really want this to be a very succesful engine with no problems in the beginning or the long run.

Thanks

 

No need for the charger if that's all the power your after George..

It's an aweful expensive "coolness factor" considering the blower kit, good blow thru carb, pressure sensative regulator and killer fuel pump and so on and so forth. Easy to spend 5K+ on that stuff..

600 HP is just one of my Level 2A Pump gas motors.. if you want to get into the 625 HP range, that's just another $500 worth of head work. Have built a couple of copies of that one, first one went 604 HP, second one was around 590 somthing..

If your after more, headwork and a little more cam duration will give us that.

I would shy away from the complexity of the blower kit, if your just after that level of HP. No way around it being a higher maintainence piece than a regular NA motor.

JW

 

I completely understand what you mean Jim but i just love that whining sound of the supercharger,i was at a car show and there was a `70 cutlass 442 conv`t and man when that thing came around it sounded awesome,it was definatley a procharger,it didnt have a big blower sticking out of the hood or anything.

Thanks

 

I agree, sometimes the "wow" factor is more important than the actual HP. (I like both)

Does anyone know what happened to the website at www.xsperformance.net? It seems to be gone!

-Bob Cunningham

 

So the pro charger can be hidden under a stock hood? Anybody have pics?

 

Jim
What if one built a Procharged motor with a mild cam and kept the rpms under 5000? The stock block would have a good chance of living? I know stress on the block rises expotentially as rpm increases.
I'm thinking 700 hp not going over 5000 (mild cam, iron heads) vs. NA 700 at 6500 to 7000 rpm (big cam, ported Stage TEs, etc)

Bruce

 

Horsepower is a function of RPM and torque. 700hp at 5000 rpm is more torque than 700 hp at 7000rpm. If you're dead set on the blower and only want something fun for the street (and strip if you don't try to set the world on fire), build a mild engine with good parts (forged pistons, good gaskets, etc) and add a little boost, otherwise, plan on spending a good amount of money to keep everything together.

 

Will torque without rpml break the engine? Just for the sake of the discussion, say you made 1000 ft lbs of torque at 4000 and the motor never saw the high side of 4500. A 3800 lb GS could run in the nines easy with 3.00 gears.

Sure it would have some good parts in it but I'm mainly concerned about the limit of the stock block.

See where I'm coming from?

Bruce

 

forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't the higher stress of that much force inside the block bores be even more detrimental(to the block) than the speed of the rotating assembly? i'm no engine builder, just curious o No:

 

Have you been tracking Rich's progress?
These prochargers are not as straightforward, bolt-on as you might think.
I've been experimenting with a D1 on a 350 with 8:1 compression and some good parts. Yes, the hp and torque numbers are pretty impressive but I have to tell you that once you climb above the 10# psi threshold - watch out for flying parts!!
Here's some reading for you:
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=26143 :Smarty:

 

My Opinion?? Go with a stock stroke 455, aluminum heads and a ATI blower. A new block would definitely be the way to go with some good parts. If you don't want to wait on a second run of blocks, I'd order one very soon. With a blower and good flowing heads, I don't feel you need the cubes to get awsome power #'s. You can't go wrong with a billet crank but if you keep the stock stroke keeping the rod journal sizes big, it should hold up fine for a street/some strip motor. I been beating on one for a while and I'm still trying to break it spinning it to 6800 and feeding it Nitrous. Its your motor but I don't think you'll find many cases of anyone breaking a stock stroke crank from power.

Bulldog or TA Stg 1 Aluminum heads are both good heads and flow well with a little porting. The benefit of the Stg 2's would be the better flowing exhaust port for a blower combination.

 

what about a stroked 400 ?? :Brow: :Brow:

Bill..we've read rich's wild adventure.....where's your write-up ??

 

I don't know for certain, but I think it will. All that force is trying to push the crank out of the block, and that's the weak point. Diesel engines are built like tanks because of the high torque at low RPMs.

 

If I remember correctly, been a long time ago, seems like Scotty Guadagno told me many years ago that when he broke blocks on the dyno, they always broke at around 4400 or 4600 rpm.

I believe there are 2 things we are dealing with here, one is just the brute force of power and the other is harmonics inside the block.
Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES

 

George,

Read my post (long post) and learn from my mistakes (trial and error).....

Start with good block, used forged pistions, do the girdle, and have it internally blananced....... Keep the compression around 8.5 to 9. Girdle it from the start! Buy a nice carb (Call Quick Fuel) they hooked me up with a VERY nice 950 for way cheaper than the CarbShop.... and it was almost spot on out of the box!! Buy a NEW Distributer from MSD and most importanly..... buy a WIDEBAND 02 of some kind LM1 is really nice for the money.

I'm possitive you can build a nice solid 455 with the price of the carb and the blower for cheaper than a stroked 455....

Read my posts and learn from my mishaps!!! Can't express that enough!!!!!

A motor that is built for a blower and not a bandaid motor like mine will make some serioius power and live a long time.........