Power Windows Are Dying a Slow Death: Rebuild or Replace?

71 GS Convertible

All the power windows are dying a slow death. They all work, but not for long...........

Should I rebuild or replace the motors, etc?

What else should I be ordering/replacing while I've got all the doors apart?

Thanks

 

IMHO take them apart and lubricate mechanism, then clean contacts. I've had good results with mine that way.

 

+1

 

What else should I consider replacing while I'm in there?

Rollers, felts, etc?

Thanks

 

Power Window motors very seldom fail - it's usually the window mechanisms requiring lubrication, adjustment, or replacement. While the door panels are off check the components you listed for condition, and replace, or repair as needed. A little TLC will probably have your windows working flawlessly !! :TU:

 

Is it best to pull the motor assembly from the door and rebuild it on a bench?

Thanks

 

Yes

... but you should only have to "service" it not rebuild it. The motor is probably fine, but the 40+ year old grease that is packed in there is probably more like a wax consistency now - clean it all out as best as possible and repack with wheel bearing grease

Lube all the tracks and channels .. the adjusters that provide tension on the window have a material very similar to the soft "loop" part of velcro - in fact, that is what I used almost 20 years ago on mine when I found some of them didn't even have anything on the metal

 

As Alan stated - much easier if everything is removed, but it can be a very time consuming task.
A motor rebuild is not usually needed, but that old grease should be removed and replaced, and all the rollers and metal pivot points should be lubed with a light oil.
Any worn felt should be replaced, and you can also adjust the vertical tracks, and window stops, if needed.
A chassis manual will give you a good idea of what's involved. :TU:

 

Allan hit it on the head. Take off the plastic cups and clean and add new wheel bearing grease. Most guys do not realize the cups come off. After you clean them you can test them with a battery and see if they work better. Use some jumper wires. Positive to connector and neg to ground. Also when you take the motors off the regulator buzz the regulator to full straight open You will still have to pry the motor off a little. If the arm is bent it can hurt you.

 

I did all the cleaning and adjustments to the Riv but it was still slow for my likes. I ended up replacing the Alt with a 1 wire due to a unrelated issue and low n behold my windows fly up and down now. A bit more amperage made a huge difference.

 

+1 - a higher output alternator definitely made a difference for me too, after cleaning and adjusting from a change out from plain to tinted glass !!
I also sprayed a little 'Armoral' down the 'well used' vertical channels too, which reduced a lot of the friction on the glass run. :TU:

 

Excuse my ignorance, buy what is a 1 wire alternator?

Thanks

 

It is not stock that is for sure. IF you want to be safe you can replace your engine harness. That would show similar results.

 

a 1 wire alt has the voltage reg. built into it and does away with the reg. bolted to the firewall

 

I have a regulator for a 57 Buick for electric windows but the electric motor is already off of it.

Now the shop manual says before removing the motor from the regulator assembly it is bolted to, set it into a bench vise and make sure to keep the heavy spring from uncoiling and possibly damaging yourself. It goes on to say this is done by drilling and inserting a temporary 3/16 bolt through the regulator body. It serves to hold the tension in the heavy regulator spring so you can safely remove the electric motor without the spring suddenly unwinding. Once the regulator is reinstalled into the door and it's arms connected to the tract and bottom channel window rails then one is suppose to remove this temporary bolt and the spring will then preload back onto the electric window motor driving gear.

So with that said, just how does one go about rewinding or preloading the spring in order to reinstall a new motor if the spring has been previously unwound due to motor removal and no 3/16 bolt install to keep spring tension as the shop manual does not address this situation.

Has anyone encountered this same problem in attempting to reinstall a new electric motor. Apparently, maintaining the preloading of the spring is necessary to counter the weight of the glass and assist in the operation of the reversible electric window motor.

So I would need to know how to pretension the spring and know just how much rewind/recoiling tension is necessary to ensure proper window operation.

Thanks in advance

 

What are these cups you are referring to?

 

'71 GS 350 Convertible.

Started on the small, rear power window today.

Just cleaning and lubing the tracks made a world of difference. However, I would like to do The Full Monty and remove everything.

Are the window rollers actually supposed to 'roll', or do they just kind of skate & glide over the tracks?

I can reach in and spin some rollers by hand, but when being powered up & down, they don't roll, they skate. Is this proper?

I'm using synthetic brake grease (Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube) for the tracks, and white lithium grease for the rollers & hinge mechanisms. Is this OK to use?

Thanks