Power window fuse/relay - problem solved (it was a blown relay)

Just an FYI I have those Circuit Breakers in stock also for $11.00. (Same Part OPG is selling for $18.00)



40 Amp Circuit Breaker used on Cars with Power Windows, Convertible Top & more. . . .

Fits 1968 – 1972 (Maybe More)

Source – Lectric Limited

 

sir, thank you so much for you help! The problem was a blown relay which is why the windows did not work. Luckily the guy I bought the car from knew about this being the possible cause and helped me out as well I went ahead and replaced the fuse and BOOM POWER WINDOWS WORK AGAIN!

Also if you check the photos he stripped spliced and crimped wires to a semi modern relay connector so I was easily able to find a replacement. Next step is to get a higher amp/voltage one (which is on order)
To replace this one if it goes out again.

 

Oh that circuit breaker is for the power seats/accessories I meant for the relay I think I need more amp/volts but I will grab two more just in case I already ordered two circuit breakers as well just to have on hand

 

I’m getting the circuit breaker replaced as well the old one works but looks worn out so rather be safe

 

Thank you very much I bought two for 11 ea they are on order now

 

sorry if I’m not answering your question I saw the pic you posted I think he did it because it was easier than looking for an original replacement

 

So the guy I bought the car from stated he used this piece because he had it laying around in his shop. Also he left the original one in the glove box. Here is a picture of the original one

 

Yes that all makes sense. The relay is in the power window circuit. It gets power directly from the fuse panel...pink wire...from the circuit that uses that breaker. A relay is used so all those amps can come straight from the panel and not traverse the ignition switch. Instead the relay is controlled by the ignition switch - tan wire -such that it only offers power to the windows when the ignition switch is on. Jlinn...these are not pieces that should fail very often. If they do, you need to inspect the wiring that goes from the relay to the door window switch--the red wire from relay to door switch. The door opening and closing can break and short the wires. That relay does have a moving piece inside so after 50 years it might have bit the dust....however if you see more issues don't just swap it out again....start looking at that wiring harness in the door... The current repair should do the trick otherwise.

 

Thank you very much for the info if anything goes wrong with the windows again I will check that out for sure.... also I was trying to install a tachometer but if you look at my previous pics the fuse box is completely full...

Warning this may be a dumb question: can I cut the ignition wire splice it and attach/leech another wire off of it for my tachometer?

 

The reason I ask this is because watching a YouTube tutorial they stated that if my fuse box is full (which it is) I have to find a way to do that so That’s why I’m asking before I just go ahead and do that lol

 

Open a new thread on the tach...someone here will know the proper way to wire it in.

 

The windows go up and down really fast, a lot faster than before which is why I assumed it was the relay I will definitely look into changing everything back to the original though. And yeah I wasn’t sure I could use that for the tachometer lol
I have a HEI distributor from TA performance

 

No power at the switch is probably a broken feed wire in the harness that passes from the jamb to the door. Not too unusual to have a failure there... Get one of these for the E-225... ws

 

The relay is supposed to be there. Someone just created a little pigtail to use a standard parts store relay vs the unique unit from the day. Should work for 50 more years.

 

Yes sir there is

 

this will be a good project for today/tomorrow as well as a new radiator hose piece because mine went out on the way home and I had to get my car towed tonight... lol