'Just got done replacing the timing chain and sprockets in my 1972 LeSabre Custom convertible with 350 engine. (It was running fine, but back in the day of my buying used cars, I had two Buick 350s jump their chains over worn camshaft sprockets and didn't want this one to "go" at 96,000 miles, at an inopportune time.) It's back together and runs great. Power Steering question: Should I bleed the power steering system in light of the following? When I swung the power steering pump out of the way in the course of the timing chain job, it was on an angle such that fluid leaked out. How much I don't know because it dripped onto the floor covered with oil dry. When I got it all back toegther, I topped off the power steering pump, but it didn't seem to take as much as I would have expected. I installed a new pump drive belt in the course of the whole job and it is as tight as I dare make it, even after running in. But the power steering chatters on routine slow turns, like parking, and the steering wheel momentarily loses its power assist, just as if the drive belt was loose. Does this sound like the system should be bled? If so, how might I go about it; remove one return hose and let it drain out by gravity or ??? Thanks for any ideas.
You might have drained enough out of the pump/reservoir to need bleeding. To do it, jack up the front end to where there isn't the weight of the car on the tires, fire it up and let it idle while slowly turning the wheel from lock to lock. Only should need to go lock to lock 5-10 times. Drop it back down on the ground and you should be good to go.
Do not run the engine to bleed. That whips the fluid into foam if air is in the system. With engine off and system is not hot, (warm is OK, as time for air to release from fluid) turn lock to lock, and keep an eye on level. It will rise one direction and lower the other, so as to not induce cavitation.
Gotta disagree with you on that, Michael, but that's ok, we're not going to agree on everything . It's how I was taught 20 years ago and how they've done it in the shops I've worked in from day 1.....
I did 1000's of PS repairs and the only way I bleed them was ; Start the engine , turn lock to lock , shut the engine off and let the bubbles dissapear . If needed I would repeat this 1 or 2 more times as needed. A 5 or 10 minute wait between tries was all that was needed .
Thanks, all. If I try it cold first without the engine running and it doesn't work, I can always start the engine and do it that way; easier than having it hot and running first and having to wait until it cools down. So far, the concensus is that it needs to be bled, and I appreciate that confirmation.
