power steering pump rebuild

I am looking for a rebuild/seal kit for a '66 power steering pump. any suggestions where to go? Thanks, frank

 

Da...never mind. I found the shaft seal, and seal kit at napa.

 

Mainbuick, I saw your earlier thread on PS pumps and I was wondering if you could help me out on this.
My '65 GS PS pump is making an ominous noise when it is not under load. It is a ticking/knocking sort of sound. If I turn the wheel, it goes away.
Just wanted to know what I am facing, catastrophic failure, or just a noise until I can repair or replace part or all of it?

TIA

 

Well, I found out, that its a pretty easy pump to break down. there might be something worn or broken . Stupid question, is the fluid level ok? I was surprised that other than the seal kit, which consists of about 6 o' rings, and the front shaft seal, which is similar to a wheel bearing or pinion seal, there isint much else to rebuild. once you take it apart, it should be evident, if something needs replacing. You can still special order a rebuilt pump through napa, but several people on the board have said that they suck. I guess it would depend on the core that was used, because there are so few parts inside the darn thing, and no bearing, If the seals are installed properly, and there are no broken , or extremely worn out parts, it should work. I woulds think if you ordered one, and it leaks or malfunctions, you can return it , until you get one that works?? Just dont do what I did removing the pump from the resevoir housing. One of the guys said to grab the the front, and tap around the edge with a rubber mallet, after removing the studs and fittings from the back. I didnt figure that out before I pulled the pressure fitting off the back, removed the valve and spring, then stuck an extension in there, and proceeded to punch a hole through the casting.ou:

 

Thanks Frank,
Yes, I am pretty sure that the fluid level is correct. I checked it with the engine off, and it reaches the bottom of the filler neck. Until I get my chassis manual (in the mail) I won't be sure though.
It's good to hear that it is a simple component, I guess that's why GM has used this design for decades!
That earlier thread has me convinced to rebuild if possible, or look for a good used pump. This noise is buggin' me! It really put a damper on an otherwise wonderful driving experience!
By the way, do you see a noticeable difference in the handling between your '66's? I used to own a '65 convertible, and my '65 GS is head and shoulders above it in terms of stock ride quality.

Thanks again,

 

I had a noise in mine that I tried for years to eliminate. It was not very loud, but was quiet when the fluid was cold. It drove me NUTS. (now that explains it all:grin: )1 or 2 rebuild kits and a few rebuilt pumps (which were all junk) later, I flushed the system and put in synthetic dexron trans fluid and the noise is gone. My steering is quieter, smoother, and better than it ever was. Well worth the trouble.

Perhaps it has something to do with 'type a' trans fluid which is no longer made?o No:

 

I will try the synthetic fluid. what about using standard power steering fluid? I have mixed it with the atf in the past, not sure if that was good to do.

 

Been there, done that, it won't help. I think the synthetic works better because it doesn't break down when hot. I put a thermometer in my p/s pump, and that oil gets hot.....over 180 on a hot day with a/c on. Mine used to get noisy as soon as the temp hit 140.

One other thing you may want to check, is make sure the shaft nut is tight, the pulley may be loose.:bglasses:

 

Thanks gentlemen,
I will change the fluid out ASAP and try the Dexron synthetic tansmission fluid. The pulley is on firm, that was one of my first guesses.

 

My bets are all on the pulley causing the noise. I have had that same problem before on these cars and it was the pulley being loose. Even if you have the nut tight, it could have gotten loose before and what happens is it wears the front and back surfaces where the nut clamps down on and even with the nut tight on the shaft, the pulley has some play in it on the shaft. The knocking sound comes from the pulley 'jumping' over the woodruf key every time it comes around. When this happened to one of mine I had to find a washer with a hole in it the size of the i.d. of the pulley and put it behind the nut so it would clamp down on the pulley. Other option is to replace the pulley or weld up the face of it and re-machine it so you have the right thickness again.

 

I will be able to take a look at it this weekend and will definetly look at all of the suspects and the recommended solutions for dealing with them.
I will follow up with a post on the solution. Thanks for all the help, this board rocks!

 

much delayed update (it was the shaft)

It took way longer than a weekend (a 10 month old daughter and a 6yr old daughter) to deal with my PS pump.
The pulley must have loosened upa bit when my brother delivered the car back in January, that's when it started making noise. Here's a pic of the shaft where the keyway used to be. The pulley was equally worked, but the folks at Buick World came through again with a used one in great shape for 25 bucks.
I had to swap reservoirs and put mine on the pump i picked up on eBay, then switch pumps and use the "new" pulley.
I put everything back together last night so I can take it back out on the road this weekend. Thanks again for all of your help on this.

 

Man! That is one," ate up" pump shaft! Its amazing the pulley didnt just spin on the shaft! Good pic! :eek2:

 

Yeah, that is what kept me from looking at the pulley as the problem. i'd give it a good wiggle and it was tight as a drum. I'm just happy the shaft held together long enough for me to clue in to the problem.

 

Resurrecting thread to ask a question

Anyone have any pointers on removing and replacing the front shaft seal on a '65 'lark PS pump?
I have a rebuild kit and a pump on my garage bench. I have never R&R'ed the shaft seal before, so I am looking for some pointers that will help keep me from spending too much time in an unheated garage.
For example, would heating it up a wee bit with a propane torch be a good idea or not?

My shaft seal has a leak, the fluid is dripping onto the pulley, which spreads it in a fine spray throughout most of the engine compartment.


Thanks

 

any help would be appreciated (ttt)

Have PS pump shaft seal replacement questions (how to do it?), see the above post.

 

Found what i was looking for here online. Also included it in this post.

Rebuilding a Power Steering
Pump (Saginaw Type)

Starting in 1968, AMC began using Saginaw power steering components. The first cars to get them had 6 cylinders while V8s began using them in 1972. These pumps are a big improvement over the Eaton units they replaced which are prone to leaks between the reservoir and the pump housing.

These pumps tend to be trouble free but can develop a few problems that require a tear down to repair. Those problems are a damaged reservoir (which causes a leak around the pump body if that area gets distorted), leaks around the hoses and the pump body, and sticky pressure relief valves (which causes either a chirp noise at low speeds or a loss of pump pressure).

The rebuild procedure is very simple (see Tips to make sure your rebuilt pump lasts for a long time prior to heading to the store for parts). You'll spend most of your time cleaning parts. Heres what you'll need to get before you get started:

A 1x2 block of wood
A hammer
Assorted box and socket wrenches (deep drive)
A small flat blade screw driver or pick to remove o-rings
A large flat blade screw driver to remove the pump cover retaining ring
A small pin punch or large finishing nail (also used during pump cover removal)
A torque wrench that will measure up to 35 ft/lbs.
A pump rebuild kit (I purchased mine at AutoZone for about $10).
Fresh power steering fluid
Parts degreaser (Grease cutting dish soap and warm water works well if youre willing to scrub.)
If you have a press-on pulley, you'll need a removal/installation tool set. Your bigger auto parts stores will usually have a loaner you can borrow.

Before you begin disassembly, I want to warn you about the reservoir on these pumps. They are stamped sheet metal (thinner than a valve cover) and are very easy to bend. Never hit them directly with a hammer. If your reservoir is badly distorted, you can get a new one from a GM dealer (you should take your old one along to make sure the return hose tube is in the correct position) or an AMC parts supplier.

Speaking of reservoirs, Saginaw changed the design of them midyear in `71. The old reservoir is round with a long filler neck. The new design is tear-drop shaped with a very short filler neck. This is the only difference between them.

Disassembly

Drain the pump.
Remove the pulley from the pump. You'll need a special tool for the pressed on pulleys. The bolt on have a nut you need to remove.
Remove the shaft key (pressed on pulleys may not have one).
Remove the brackets.
Remove the studs on the back and the union for the pressure hose. Turn the pump so the shaft faces up and tap on the pump housing to remove the flow control valve and spring. Remove the o-ring from the hose fitting.
Clamp the pump in a vice clamping on the area around the shaft seal and tap around the edge of the reservoir with a block of wood and a hammer to remove the reservoir. Only clamp hard enough to hold the pump in place.
Remove the o-rings from the pump body. There are 4 of them. A large one around the body and 3 on the back where the studs and hose union attach to the pump. Make sure to hold on to the 3 in the back. There are two sizes and you may need to match them up if you are unsure of which ones to use.
Rotate the retaining ring on the pump cover until one end is near the hole at the top of the pump body. Insert a punch into the hole to push the edge of the retainer clear of the pump body and pry the retainer out. There is a spring behind the plate so be prepared to catch it. Chances are, you'll need to tap on the pump body some to remove the plate.
After making sure the key is removed from the shaft, tap on the end of the shaft until the pressure plate, ring, rotor, and thrust plate assembly can be removed. One or both of the dowel pins may come out with this assembly. Separate all of the parts (the pump rotor has 10 vanes in it that will likely fall out so make sure you take it apart over the bench).
Remove the two o-rings in the pump cavity and the shaft seal.


Inspection

Clean all of the parts and either air dry or wipe them dry with a lint free cloth. Lightly coat any machined surfaces with power steering fluid to prevent flash rust.

Check to make sure the flow control valve moves freely in its bore. If it doesn't check for burrs. These can be corrected with emery cloth.

Make sure the screw in the pressure relief valve is tight. If it isn't, tighten it. Make sure not to damage any machined surfaces.

Inspect the pressure plate, ring, and thrust plate for scoring. A polished finish is normal.

Make sure the pump shaft turns freely in the bearing in the pump. If there is any side to side looseness or the bearing is scored (or loose in the pump body), replace it with the one in the rebuild kit. I had to use a cold chisel to remove mine.

Make sure the pump vanes move freely in the rotor and check the pump shaft for any cracks.

Assembly

Note: All parts should be lightly lubricated with power steering fluid during assembly.

Install the pump shaft oil seal using a 15/16 inch socket to drive it into place. Lubricate the rubber lip with power steering fluid.
Lubricate the o-rings that go in the pump bore and install them.
Install the dowel pins.
Install the pump shaft.
Install the pump ring. The arrow on the side should face the open end of the pump bore and the smaller set of holes fit over the dowel pins.
Install the pump vanes making sure the rounded edges face the pump ring.
Install the pressure plate making sure the spring groove is facing up.
Install the pressure plate spring.
Install the end plate. Force it down enough to install the retaining ring and install the retaining ring.
Install the large o-ring around the pump body.
Install the stud and union seals. Make sure to match the old ones up with the new ones since two different thickness were used.
Place the reservoir in position and gently tap into place using the wood block and hammer.
Install the flow control valve and spring.
Install the studs and union (make sure to replace the o-ring on the union first!) and torque to 35 ft/lbs.
Installation and Break-In

Reinstall the brackets and pulley and install on the car (make sure to connect the power steering hoses as well!). Fill with fresh power steering fluid, start car and let idle for at least 5 minutes.
Support front end of car so wheels are not contacting the ground. Turn the wheel to the left and check for leakage.
Stop car and recheck the belt for proper tension.
If needed, refill the reservoir to its proper level.
Turn the wheels back and forth from stop to stop until there is no evidence of foaming in the fluid. Do not hold the wheels at the stop for any length of time or you will overheat the pump. Air going through the system will make noise. This is normal.
Once all of the air is removed, check the fluid level in the reservoir and recheck for leaks.
Tips to make sure your rebuilt pump lasts a long time [top]

Prior to removing the old pump, flush the power steering gear box out with new fluid. The simplest way to do this is to remove the return hose from the pump and place the end of it in a milk jug. Use a rubber stopper or a cap to seal the hose fitting on the pump so it can hold fluid. Fill the reservoir and have a helper start the car. With the engine idling, add fluid to the reservoir until it comes out clear in the milk jug. Make sure the pump does not run out of fluid or damage to the pump may occur.
If you find metal shavings or other debris in the pump or the fluid flushed out of the steering gear box, you should rebuild or replace the gear box at the same time. A rebuilt steering gear for my American cost $149 in 1999.
Replace the power steering hoses. They are cheap (the pair for my American was around $30) and can be a source of leaks and debris in the future.
Inspect the steering coupler (its the rubber circle between the steering gear box and steering shaft). I know this doesn't affect the pump but if it is cracked or falling apart, a new one will improve the road feel of the car and remove some of the slop from the steering.

This is a reprint from Matt's Old Cars