power brake booster replacement...

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Brad W, Apr 10, 2018.

  1. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    I'm going to replace my power booster soon because of a vacuum leak it has. I was told I could do so without having to remove the brake line from the master cylinder. I figure I'd remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster and move it out of the way hoping the brake lines have enough play to let me do so and change out the booster.
    I like to hear from someone who's been successful changing the power booster this way...


    In another post it was suggested to have some plugs on hand to plug the M/C outlets off just incase I need to remove the lines so that I won't have a mess of brake fluid all over, In that case I'd have to bleed the brakes.

    Thanks again!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Disconnect the vacuum line from the booster.
    Remove the 2 nuts holding the MC to the booster, pull it forward and swing it to the side toward the fender and secure it with wire or tie straps to the hood hinge.
    Disconnect the brake pedal pushrod (there is a clip) and then pull the pushrod away.
    Remove the four nuts holding the booster to the firewall.
    Remove the booster.

    Reverse the steps to put it back together.

    Adjust the pedal rod to the proper specs.

    Check the rubber pedal stop at the top of the pedal mount (up by the steering mast).

    If you need one, PM me your address and I can send you one.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  3. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    I did mine. There is enough play to do it. The fasteners for the booster can be annoying. No need to remove master or bleed anything.
     
  4. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    Thanks for the great how to TrunkMonkey! I'll check for the pedal stop and if not there I'll PM you
     
  5. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    Thanks John, it's nice to hear other people have done the same repair and were successful!
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The nuts holding the booster to the firewall can indeed be tough. Use the longest box wrench you can find, you’ll need the leverage.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  7. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    Hate to suggest that you spend more money than necessary but, why not replace the entire booster/MC unit at one time and just bleed the brakes? NAPA master cylinders aren't expensive. Your engine bay looks very well detailed and the new unit will really dress it up nicely. :)
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  8. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I'd just remove the master and get it out of the way instead of fighting it. Remember, the longest distance between two points is a shortcut. If you plug the ports on the master so it doesn't drain out, an almost negligible amount of air is going to be introduced into the line. Id be surprised if you even have to bleed it afterwards.

    And bleeding the system isn't the worst thing in the world. A brake fluid flush should be done every couple years. I vacuum out the master with my mityvac. Then put a balled up piece of paper towel into the reservoir to soak up any debris or sediment. Once its fairly clean in there, I refill it with clean fluid and bleed it out. That way your pushing nice clean fluid through the system
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  9. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    I use a Dollar Store Turkey baster to get fluid from the master. I agree it would be easier and also agree that the master installed looks, ahhh, crusty. Your engine compartment looks noce in the pic, you could clean'r up..
     
  10. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    They can be tough....that's like the dentist telling you that you'll experience "some discomfort" :D
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  11. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    Thanks guys, I'm going to go with just replacing the booster. Replacing everything would probably be smarter but the M/C doesn't leak and funds are a little tight right now.

    Here in so. Cal. it cost as much to fill the gas tank as it does for a new power booster!

    Thanks for all the suggestions for doing the job. I'll let you guys know how it goes when I get it done.

    Brad
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  12. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    I replaced the power booster today and yes the nuts were pain to take off the firewall but all in all it went well. The vacuum leak went away but I'm not sure the booster is doing its job correctly. the car stops well enough but I feel I need to press on the brake pedal harder then I should. with the engin off if i depress the pedal three times the pedal does go down but not much. I wish there was another Skylark around so that I can compare the two.

    I didn't get a A/C delco booster rather I went with one from O'reillys. Maybe that's my problem.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    With the engine off, depress the pedal 3 or 4 times. Then apply constant pressure to the brake pedal, and start the engine. If the booster is operating correctly, the brake pedal should drop.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  14. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    Thanks Larry, I'll try that after work tomorrow.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  15. Brad W

    Brad W Miles from nowhere...

    I had some time this evening and did the test you suggested and pump the pedal 4 times then applied constant pressure the started to engine. sure enough the pedal dropped. I think I was comparing it to my Nissan Sentra which is a different animal....

    Thanks everyone for your help!
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.

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