I am changing the rear control arm bushings and will have the control arms blasted and powder coated. Anyone have a specific powder coat product number that matches closely the semi-gloss black that is correct for the chassis parts? I am also interested in having the complete rear end blasted and then refinishing it as well. Is it possible to have it blasted as a complete unit without concern for sand getting into seals and ruining parts? What would be great (if possible) is to have it blasted and powder coated as well. I imagine it cannot be powder coated without disassembly as I would think the baking process would ruin the seals and lubricants. Anyhow, can I get the rear "safely" sand blasted to clean it thoroughly? Then I would epoxy paint the rear if powder coating is not an option. Thanks!
When i rebuilt my old 12 bolt, they wanted too much to blast it. I found a machine shop that was willing to hot tank it for me (they had to do it twice, since it was too long for their tank). They charged me like $50. I painted it myself, and it turned out very nice. Just my opinion, but if you're taking it that far apart, I'd go ahead and replace the seals and bearings. They are cheap, and it's one of those things... "while you're in there..." :TU:
I disassembled the rear end, had it sandblasted and powder coated. I used Chasis Black. Cost total about $200. Only way to do it is disassembly. Gets pretty hot in the oven. Looks great. Ton of different blacks so look at samples. Most have them. Good Luck Dan
I used a pressure washer to clean the housing, just hold the tip very close. Be sure and wear goggles and an apron. I think George has some info/pics on his site about restoring the rear end... Bert
you would have to disassemble it for powder coat. The whole unit has to be heated to 450 degrees, which would pretty much destroy any rubber seal. Plus why take a chance with sand contaminating the rear. that would quickly wreck the bearings and gears.. I just had mine sandblasted. It was completly apart and the guy used very thick tape, possibly that new gorilla stuff. any way he assured me it would be sealed, but it had quite a bit of sand in it. IT was a huge pita trying to clean it out..
Rob ~ Did you ever figure out a a specific powder coat product number that matches the semi-gloss black that is correct for the chassis parts? I am in the process of doing my rear end, suspension parts; trailing arms and control arms. I would like to do it right the first time, of course. John C.
I just did mine on Saturday. But, I painted mine with dark gray PPG automotive paint with a flattening agent. I had the rear end, control arms and sway bars sand blasted. I paid $100. 15 minutes after I made the deal, another sand blast guy finally returned my call and offered to do it for $40! Ugh. I sand blasted my rear end completely assembled. I carefully taped off the vent and bagged and taped the brake components. No worries.
I've had several blasted with no problems. Its the only way to go in my opinion. Its the best way to get into all the nooks and crannies....but I tend to be more particular than most. Leave the old seals in until after its blasted then replace them. I remove the axles and brake back plates and make covers for the ends of tubes out of any thin piece of plastic or steel. Drill holes to line up with the studs and install it with silicone sealer and the nuts on the studs. I leave the plastic vent (at least thats what the riv axles have) in the tube and tape it up with a marker written on the tape not to remove to damage it. I sometimes wrap several rounds of electrical tape between the pinion flange and seal just for some extra insurance. I had an axle and rad support blasted and epoxied for $100 As far as powder coating it you should talk to your powder coater and see what they say. If its a busy shop most likely they have encounterd an axle before. I don't know much about powder coating but if you have pitting left over after blasting, I'm not sure how well the powder coat will hide them if at all. After blasting, I have the shop shoot it with epoxy primer then after I get it home I fill any pitting with filler putty, sand it off smooth then reprime using high build primer, then top coat. I think powder coating is over rated for the average classic show/driver car. Certainly it has its benefits and applications where it is superior but for the most part its overkill IMO. Epoxy primer with a quality top coat will prevent rust and is easy to touch up.
