Pics From Last Run of the Season

Clint,

This might be better directed to JW or some of the high HP builders out there.

 

Well, I'm looking over buildup parts now...

Anyone know about total seal rings on a street/strip buildup?

 

Hey Lev,

What RPM did you normally shift at?

 

Yardley,

I shift about 2800 in normal street use but I'm overcautious on the track. I shift just before 4500 and the trans'll pop to about 4800.

...I guess the caution didn't pay off :af:

 

Geez. My Riv sees 5 grand just backing out of the driveway. Hope I'm all buttoned up!

 

So, what are our alternatives for connecting rods. I was under the impression that BBB rods were weak. So I guess it is true.

What should we use instead? That is, that doesn't cost a bazillion dollars.

 

I've been using stock reconditioned rods with ARP bolts for the last 4 years. My spin mine to 5700 to 6000 all the time. This is with a 450 - 500 horse motor. I don't think you need to start looking for after market rods until the 600 + range (can someone verify this? Jim ?) It would be my bet that one of the stock rod bolts let go.

Rich

 

I too have noticed core shift in the Buick blocks.While my Buick engine experience level is limited the shift in relation to lifter bores appears to be more pronounced in the later(75,76)blocks that I have seen compared to a 430 block for example.Having said that,it is also apparent in the later blocks I have seen that there is more "material"around the lifter bores thus making a mild core shift block not all that undesirable.Again I have only perhaps ever looked relatively carefully at 5 or 6 blocks at the most.I have had 3 '76 blocks,1 '430,1 '72(which broke) and 2 '70's.Block in the car now is a '76 and does have some core shift but is holding together fine so far.Rod

 

Yardley,

I've looked into a set of shot peened, ARP, polished beam rods here already. Only about $180 Canadian ($100 USD) with core rods! Canadian labour is cheap as you may have guessed... I'm already going for a set.

...hmmm, I noticed more meat in the lifter gallery of the 76, but didn't see a lot of shift, I'll look closer this evening.

 

I've always been told that BBB rods can go to about 6000 RPM with out any problems. It's the rod cap bolts that are weak. I upgraded to ARPs for this very reason. I'm no expert here but I'm open to good accurate advice on this if it's out there.
Thanks,
John o No:

 

Clint,

The block that you had is just fine for this type of buildup. Core shift is most evident in the lifter bore area, Gary posted a good pic of what to look for.

Since you said in the other thread that your last motor broke a rod, I believe you will find either a broken piston pin bore in the stock cast pistons, a bearing failure that slammed the piston into the head, or a broken stock rod bolt, to be the ultimate cause of your motors demise.

From the look of your last block, I would put a TA Girdle on that thing, and run it, with good stock, resized, shot peened, beam polished and cyro frozen rods to 6200 rpm, and up to 600 HP, and never loose a wink of sleep about it. Done it for years.

WE cyro freeze the rods here, cost is $95 a set to have them done. This should be done, after all machine work is done on them, and adds up to 30% strength to them. Above 600 HP, I reccomend the new TA forged rod.

JW

 

Thanks Jim,

I've finally got shop space cleared out to pull the engine, I'll know by this weekend if the heads are salvageable.

I'm aiming at 500-600 horse, I'll likely go with the cryo to be safe.

 

who does cryo freezing in canada? or the states?

 

Just leave 'em out in the snow for a few weeks! :laugh:

 

Wow, that's over 4 years ago I blew that engine! Geez it's sucked trying to get that car back on the road. Sure have learned a lot about the BBB since!