Paint - Single stage or Base coat Clear coat ?

In the process of restoring my 70 GS Stage 1. Original color is Glacier White. Looking for Pro’s / Con’s and ideas on which way to go. My experience has always been with clear coat cars, but I know they fail over time. Will a single stage paint job have that deep shine with a good coat of wax? Thanks!

 

Solid colors I like to use PPG/Global Concept series urethane. Easy for touch ups and maintenance. Excellent gloss. Can mix concept clear and base together for a little deeper finish if desired.

 

I.m not a painter but I can say the single stage paint on my 53 still looks excellent after more than 13 years.

Bob H.

 

In terms of authenticity, single stage will look closest to the factory applied paint. Base/clear is obvious when done on an older car-it just doesn't look the same.

 

I agree! The paint on my car is beautiful but to me looks like a glazed donut. My painter discouraged the use of single stage for reasons I can't recall. A friend of mine has a car done in black PPG DCC single stage and it looks great. I would definitely use single stage on a solid color if I ever did this again.

 

I encourage Single stage for solid colors, it's very durable and easily freshened up if need be along with easy to touch up and maintain. The old Delstar was awesome but it's not available anymore. Concept is nice also. I really like Nason Fulthane stuff sprays and lays out gorgeous and holds up extremely well even when not really cared for that well

 

The higher the solids in the clear coat, the longer it will last. A good clear coat with high solids will last a long time, unlike the cheaper clears that start to fail after a few years. If you like it shiny, base-clear, but that doesn't really look like the factory paint. I add some base to my clear to make it a single stage for touch ups.

 

I remember a few years back there was a fad where people were painting their cars with rustoleum in quart cans. they were using rollers and for what it was it didnt look half bad
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• Wash hood with hot water, powdered Tide, and a red scotch brite pad
• Sand with 80 grit disc on PC to remove most of the layers of old paint
• Sand with 220 grit disc on PC
• Sand with 320 grit disc on PC
• Prime with Rustoleum automotive spray primer
• Sand with 320 grit using palm sander
• Prime again
• Sand again with 320 grit
• Applied rustoleum mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits using a high density foam roller (2 coats, 12 hours apart)
• Sanded with 600 grid and Meg's foam block
• 2 more coats, sanded again
• 2 more coats
• wetsanded with Meg's foam block and 1500 unigrit
• wetsanded with Megs foam block and 2500 unigrit
• Compounded with PC, 5.5" LC yellow foam pad and M105 (2 passes)
• Final polished with PC, 5.5" LC green pad and M205

before


after
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As I move along on the 64 Special, I was gonna leave it in its' original skin, which really shows its' age. However, a shiny paint job looks good too. The above is absolutely acceptable as far as I am concerned. Ive painted many gallons on vertical boat sides using the roll and tip (with a brush) method and with marine top coats get an exceptional finish. Usually its hard to tell from spray. The trick is keeping a wet edge... So much for that.

I like the idea of a hand job (!) for the driver, but whats a PC. Dummy me, but Im drawing a blank! ws

 

Mine is originally Glacier White Cide 10 I believe. Any recommendations on manufacturer of single stage paint to use? I’m not sure what my painter is going to use butwanted to have an idea. Also, my interior is code 189 burnished saddle. What should be used to paint the dash brown?

 

Any of big name companies, sikkens, ppg, RM, glasurit, Axalta, spies, they all have great products

On the dash base/clear with flattening additive, tint to match color and sheen

 

I'm with you Bill, I don't think "Politically Correct" or "Personal Computer" have anything to do with painting a car?!?!
Love the new Avatar, too by the way.

 

I'm not a painter ( unless I have to be) but last couple cars I had to do, (because local painters
wanted to much for my budget) I used acrylic enamel, ( no idea whose brand) just got it from the paint store)
and on the final coat, added some clear to it, about 25% clear 75% acrylic. very happy with the results, and color sanded and buffed out very nice, show quality? I doubt it, but enough to be proud to say "I did it"
I will say I do have respect for painters and the work they do, but still complain when I have to anti up the $$$, LOL
I just had the 72 skylark done, and should of done it myself, as its not straight, and a roller lays down a better paint job,
so now its "do it myself", and wasted the $$ on somebodys BS talk, and paint job,

 

Love the new Avatar, too by the way.

Thanks Phil! Just something different; got the idea from Frank StElmo. I also sent Bob GSS a PM about the PC thing. I usually use the good quality marine stuff for the boat, more for durability than finish. Acrylic enamels on a car is a no brainer. Mix the clear by all means for a nice finish and also ad some acrylic hardener, maybe 20% for durability as well.
Its always better to tell a judgmental asshat at a show that you did yer own, then ask him how much he paid to get his done, then pick the crap out of it.
Ive been using Rustoleum appliance epoxy in a rattle can with excellent results. The trick with spray bombs is to feel the weight in the can. Heavy means more solids for coverage and color. Feel the .99 cent specials, full of air. Spray can job on the XGS... ws







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