what paint do you prefer trying to decide my next paint job I have only painted my cars dupont basecoat/clear coat what has worked best for you? thanks mike sc
We have a bodyshop and have been using BASF R-M for over 11 years and have had excellent success with it. BASF also makes Glasurit which is their premium paint line. Glasurit is pretty much known as the ultimate paint, and found OEM on many Porshe and Mercedes models. I don't know if you have heard of Legendary Motor Cars, LTD. in Canada, but they restore the very high dollar cars and only use Glasurit. Also the very well known Chip Foose (Foose Design, Overhaulin tv series), and Troy Trepanier (Rad Rides by Troy) use Glasurit and R-M. The R-M paint line is sometimes referred to as the "Americanized version of Glasurit". (Glasurit is manufactured in Germany, R-M is manufactured in North America). One reason to their great success is their basecoat is polyester, which is far superior to an acrylic basecoat in sprayability and metallic control. Another advantage to R-M and Glasurit is many of the old car colors are formulated in basecoat, where with PPG, DuPont, and Sikkens many times you have to just pick a color that looks like a similar match. If you have any questions about the BASF products I would be happy to be of assistance if I can or direct you to someone who can. Sincerely, Tim
Howdy, I have not painted in years but my first choice was R-M paint. It is consistant and matches well as long as the paint is not faded
Tim , Nowthat you metioned it ,,,,it do see them using R-M on the shows, and a lot of people locally.too I will try it. last two rivs i painted first one i used nason/dupont base coat clearcoat ..looked good and a lot of comments bbuutt..no depth.then i used on the next one for clearcoat dupont 7900 good and thick ....but something about it ,, seems pretty heavy and went through a gallon at a snap.. Next riv i will try the R-M a dark burgandy basecoat clearcoat ..any suggestions in clearcoat ? It is gonna be a daily driver ..no shows. Then i was gonna single stage a car for my son any suggestions on a single stage ? Single stage because he will probably pile up the car so just looking to save time also i have lots o nason reducer leftover can that mix with R-M? of course i know it is better to just stick with r-m but maybe someone has tried it Thanks mike v summerville sc last car was white i bought nason basecoat told the guy one gallon he told me he can only mix three quarts then one quart (bought a package deal 3 quarts and clearcoat and reducer.... well i thought about mixing them ..but didnt well thought about using the quart first ....but didnt painted the car three quarts . then needed the single quart WELL IT DIDNT MATCH after I put on the clear coaT he made good on new paint and he was able to see the mismatch in digital pictures i took him...
StratoBlue72, have you used the limco brand , what are you opinions of this ? what do you generally use on a car? thanks mike v summerville sc o No:
PPG is the very best paint. People like Boyd Coddington have made the "House of color" book famous. Since the shop I run went to PPG we have less repaints more out of can matches, and less tinting of color to make it match the original colors.
PPG has some very good products, and I agree they usually have good out of can matches especially the factory packaged color. We use DBC b/c every once in awhile if we don't find a match with R-M, which usually ends up being on a Ford vehicle. Of course no matter what, b/c will not look anything like the original laquer, as it will have much more depth which actually changes the appearance of the color. So exact color match is not really an issue on a restoration or complete paint job on an older vehicle. But the DBC b/c really doesn't have near the sprayability of the R-M Diamont b/c. Even slowing it down with 885 or 895 reducer it won't lay down like R-M will with medium reducer. Also on pearl colors, PPG uses powder pearls and tends to get blotchy. ( I know this is not really an issue on older colors that don't have pearl in their formulation ). Many of the older car colors never used to be formulated in DBU or DBC, which I have no idea if that is still the case as I haven't checked on any. Tim
My body guy has liked Standox (Germany) for a long time. They are now part of DuPont. They have some very cool custom colors like some that change from silver to bronze/gold, blue to green, etc. By the way, isn't PPG part of Sherwin Williams?
Tim, I use RM Diamont here at the shop for our resto's.. tried Glasurite, but has too much of a "European" finish to it.. We did a code 28 car last year, and what they had for the color was not real close.. so we called the boys in the lab, and had them reforumulate 3 different options for us. We did a srayout with PPG Acylic Lacquer, then the 3 alternate forumulations the RM lab supplied. We then compared them all out in the sunlight, and also used a original code 28 decklid (the underside) as a further comparision. We came up with a color, that even in B/C is very close to the original. While the depth is different, we did clear coat the PPG lacquer on another spray card, and the match was dead on. I am sure I will have to go thru this process on every resto color, but the RM lab is very easy to work with. I have that formulation here in my files, if you ever do a Diplomat Blue 70-72 car, give me a call, and I will fax it over to you. And I just love working with the DP Powerfill 2K Primer Series. Excellent adhesion right over bare metal, lightweight and polyester fillers. While not inexpensive with a retail of around $200 per mixed gallon, the reduction in the need to use multiple undercoat products, and the ease of application/sanding outweights the added cost, IMHO. WE also use it as a wet on wet sealer, mixed with proper UNO HD tint base for the basecoat color being applied. JW
BORN2RIV, We have pretty much used R-M DC 92 clear since the mid 90's. It seems to be a good clear, but it needs to have the initial buffing done after about 24 hours at 75 degrees. I would think if it was force dried it would need to be buffed in probably half that time. Another clear that has been highly recommended by one of our R-M jobbers, is the DC 5100 CTR. They say it has a longer window for buffing and seems to buff easier than the DC 92. The initial set is quick, but is slower in reaching it's final hardness. For a recommended single stage, the R-M UNO-HD is what I would use if it's a solid color such as bright red, white, or black (there are only a handful of metallic colors formulated in UNO). If it's a metallic color, the Limco line has a decent urethane single stage. The Limco urethane is quite a bit slower than UNO in reaching it's full cure, probably similar to an acrylic enamel. We try to stick with the same brand reducer in the paint. There are cases where it may be fine to use a different brand, but it's usually not recommended. One nice thing with R-M is most of their products use the same reducer. Tim
Adam, As far as I know Sherwin-Williams, Martin-Senour, and Acme are all one. PPG bought ICI (now called NEXA) but I don't believe they merged with S-W. Tim
Jim thanks Jim Thanks soooo much ,, what you sya makes all the sense in the world i will print your thread and save it for reference ..... all my painting info is by word of my like this so i really do appreiciate the help. Ome more thing do you know of any references or books or sites that can give me more info. Monday I will go to the R-M paint store to get info there ,think a local freind told me he had a cd or two from them.. another good thing about the R-M for me is that the store is open Saturdays and sundays here ...Got in a jam one saturday,, needed something from dupont and had to wait till monday .. since then i say better to overbuy then return it...they understand . Wheres your body shop at? Whats the name ..but if you dont care to mention it I dont blame ya these days. Thanks Again Mike Virant Summerville sc -
whoops yes i did mean Tim also thank-you Jim , I appreciate all info and help from all,, it all adds up. thanks again mike v summerville sc
Hi Mike, Your R-M jobber should have an extra copy of the Technical Reference Manual, which is very helpful. Also BASF has a very informative website that you can visit as a guest : www.basfrefinish.com I think you can probably print Technical Reference pages off of the site also. Tim
website helps TIM , Thank The website helps Is was looking and didnt find that one. adds up save stime thanks where are you located what state.? mike v summerville sc no skylark parts down here been looking in backyards junkyards ect but i am a country road cruiser ....i want a skylark body to hold a 455,, i have enough rivs
Mike, Glad to hear the website is helpful. They also have an excellent tech. line : 1-800-825-3000. Also I was going to mention, it wouldn't hurt to discuss the different products, especially the clears, with some of the local R-M shops painter's. I'm sure your area has fairly high humidity, which makes a big difference with clear. I'm located in N.E. Wyoming, kind of out in the middle of nowhere. Tim
tim wyoming!!!!!!! excelllent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh crap !!!! bet you have some beautiful long lonely roads there!!!! I moved down here to summerville sc from cleveland ohio to get away from the big cities!!!!!! N.E. Wyoming, !!!!! thats god's country but i just could not find any industries up there or over there but been thinking about retirement property in that area lucky you! thanks will be at the paint store tomorrow thanks sooooo much
