They fit both my 1964 and 1968 Skylarks near perfectly. I did need to notch the fan shroud for the Spal fans for the '64 (nailhead GS radiator), but it was not much, and I did not need to do anything to the '68. The Spal 2x fans and shroud unit is 25-1/4 x 17-1/4 and covers the entire core, close with no gaps. http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/highperformance_12_dualpull.html I'll go take pics and post them in a bit.
Awesome, thanks man. No rush, how long have you had them on for and what's your experience been like with them?
Radiators are: 1968 18-1/2 x 28-1/2 20200723_171300[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171220[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171134[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171214[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_170951[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM[/GALLERY 1964 15-1/2 x 20-3/4 [GALLERY=media, 1862]20200723_171701[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171612[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171646[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171426[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM 20200723_171239[1] by TrunkMonkey posted Jul 23, 2020 at 5:38 PM The '68 has 1-1/2 inch of core on each side not covered by the shroud. The shroud covers the 1964 radiator 100%
Awesome, they look great. I've been debating which mod to tackle first between this and front disc brake conversion. I might do brakes first since were headed into cold climate and the car won't see much action if it snows this year.
I have had them on the '64 a for about 2 years and drive it all the time. The fans work very well. The biggest issue I had was with the Derale PWM controllers, first one failed failed after a few weeks, and the second one (new replacement) failed in only a few hours. (did some research and saw this can be a problem with high amp fans, as the Derale unit just cannot handle the amp draw on ramp up, so that was why I went with "the auto cool guy" PWM controller. Have had no issues with that. I only have about 500 miles on the '68, (new build) and I am running these fans with two switches and relays for now, but will be adding the same controller in the next month.
I would not. Fans are most effective pulling through the core, and properly shrouded. If you put one in front to push, you will be dealing with the reduced flow that the mechanical fan is trying to pull around the electric in front, especially if it is not running. And the fan in front can, and often builds up pressure, and the flow is reduced through the core. Higher amp fans are better at moving air, and the "scimitar" style blades are the best for moving air and being quiet. You need a good large sized/amp rated battery and a higher amp output alternator as well. And last, all wiring from battery and in the "path" of the fan system, needs to be adequate for the higher amps. (My apologies about the multiple images. I only posted each one once, but it looks like there are several of each. Edited to correct.)
If you have "pullers" and proper shrouding, the clutch fan is going to be angry "spinning" like a madman and not getting paid for all that busy work. If the electric fans are running, the heat will have the clutch fan engaged, but it will not really be doing anything useful. If the electrics are not running (as in not needed due to low temp), then the clutch fan is likely free spinning and not doing any work. Do you have a specific thing in mind that your are trying to solve? Fans are most effective/necessary under 40 MPH. Above that, the airflow is (almost always) sufficient. If not, you have a problem with not enough radiator, inefficient fan/shroud, thermostat problem, blockage, timing, or other problem that needs to be addressed.
With my situation I was just thinking it might work. Your explanation sounds 100% logical. Thanks TrunkMonkey.
