Finally found a ‘99 GMC Suburban with only 116K miles at a decent price. It’s a 2500 4x4 and has two issues I need to resolve. When you hit the door lock switch you can hear all five solenoids click but none of the locks actually lock. The other issue is with the brakes, it has new rotors, calipers, and pads in the front but it pulls to the right when the brakes are applied. Then when you’re almost stopped the abs kicks in and the pedal starts dropping. I’m always amazed by the knowledge here and hoping for help in getting it all sorted out. Thanks!
Does the ABS and BRAKE lights on the dash come on after driving, sometimes almost immediately; sometimes later, but definitely after hitting a bump like train tracks? There are several Youtubes about this issue, usually the solder joints on the board get loose. relatively easy fix, just a little PITA on access the module. Also Do NOT USE DOT 5 fluid under ANY conditions!!! I would flush the brake system with DOT 3 fluid. Use a FRESH BOTTLE!!! Also, the security system will not allow the doors to lock using the remote if the key is in the ignition, but turned off. (If I recall correctly). I assume (UH_OH) you were talking about the remote... Also, if your truck is 5.0 or 5.7 with the fuel injection thing behind the actual throttle body, you may seriously want to check into getting a new design (Four pins in a flat plug) fuel pump, and get the upgraded fuel injection unit that replaces the poppet style injectors with REAL injectors. It involves taking the intake apart, but it isn't too hard..(The fuel pump will be fun if it has never been out. Spray the tank strap bolts with a good solvent several days before doing this thing.
I went thru the ABS issue with my 2001 Safari AWD, yes, You Tube has TONS of vids on it! The ABS would activate the last few seconds before coming to a stop, no matter how hard you tried to push the brake pedal it was like pushing on a brick I replaced the sensors, it worked for awhile. Then found out the Kelsey Hayes ABS module where all six brake lines converge, was trouble prone, took it out, sent it out to be rebuilt, it worked for awhile. Finally removed the fuse for ABS, got tired of its shenanigans On the pulling after caliper replacement, I went thru that also, I replaced both front brake hoses, all is good so far.
No ABS or brake lights at all and both front wheel sensors already replaced. My ‘97 with 234K did the same thing, was hoping this one wouldn’t. Probably just pull the fuse. On the door locks, there is an aftermarket auto start installed, I didn’t get any fobs (factory or aftermarket) so it could be something with that I suppose. I’ll have to see if I can figure out what brand it is. Wonder if he tried to remove it and didn’t get it all. There are a couple loud clicks under the dash when you first insert the key. Figured out why the battery was continually going dead on the previous owner, he had installed a brake controller and wired it directly to an always hot wire. What’s the best key source hot to wire it to?
