I'm putting together a rebuild kit for my 350 (High compression 10.2:1 GS motor), and would just like to get a few opinions to consider before I do anything. If someone doesn't mind taking the time to look it over, I'd sure appreciate it. This is the tentative list: Badger 10.2:1 Cast Pistons/pins/rings (.030 over) Clevite 77 Rod/Main/Cam bearings (.020/.010 on crank) Melling or Dynagear Oil Pump Dynagear timing set (do I really need to go double roller?) Fel-Pro Gaskets (Should I use steel gaskets for the heads? ) Poston GS114 Cam Poston Hi-Rev LIfters Poston Chromemoly Flexplate ARP Bolts This will be in a '70 GS, 3.42 posi, S-Divider Intake, 750 Carter, headers, 3" flowmaster exhaust (I know this is too big, car came this way). Basicly I'm just looking for a reliable, strong rebuild. I'd be happy if I could get the car to run high 13s, low 14s but it is not my main goal. If anyone sees any sore spots, I'd sure appreciate an opinion. Lastly, the previous owner said the heads have been milled, is there a way to check how much had been taken off? I'm trying to determine whether or not to go back with a .020 head gasket. Thanks in advance.:Comp:
Chris why the cast pistons? Do you have the S Divider or are you buying it. Reason being that I have one I picked up cheap and am not really impressed with it. As far as the chain goes, I always thought of a double roller as cheap insurance. Not sure if it really matters or not.
Cast pistons because they are what are included in the base rebuild kit, and should work fine for my setup (won't be raced but maybe twice a year, if that). The S divider I already have, but if they are sub standard to the stock intake I can put that back on there. What in particular, if you don't mind me asking, didn't you like about the S Divider? (I'm not getting defensive, as I have no attachment to Poston, just curious).
where is this kit from? and i would only use the steel shim head gaskets if you really need the extra compression and both the head and block are freshly machined...i think you could encounter troubles with flaws minute enough to not matter with a composite gasket.
The core kit is from Competition Machine of Plano (in Plano, TX). The Cam, Flexplate, Lifters, and ARP bolts will be from elseware unless this place can track them down and add them in. That is a good point with the head gasket, and the heads have been milled so I assume it would be very risky to go back with steel shim gaskets. Thanks for the advice, keep it coming!
Chris, in regards to the S Divider, Throttle response seems to be a bit soggy. I do notice a little more power upstairs though. In defense of the intake I have had some problems with my Q-jet so I am not entirerly convinced that it is the intake. It is kind of wierd because the carb ran like a dream on the stock cast iron intake.
Thoose steel shim gaskets are real finicky. I had problems with mine, something wasn't perfect on the block, and it pee'd water out the back the the engine, lol. I ended up decking the block .020 and running composites. The only real way to check how much the head was milled is to measure it in a few points and compare to another. I have a set that was milled .060 in my garage, so I could take a few measurements and then you can compare it to yours. You're going to need some decent calipers. Even this way isn't that great because of casting differences and fatory machining wasn't that great.
You really do need to get the back grooved cam bearings, or have the block grooved and use what you have. I don't want to read an email message down the road where this motor got built and the cam bearings melted out because you went the stocker route. Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
