I am soon going to be pulling the factory 350 2bbl and tranny out of my 1970 skylark. was wondering if anyone had any tips on pulling the engine and tranny and Rebuilding. This will be my first engine build, i have several friends, and my father in law who are mechanically inclined so i do have help with this whole process. Going to do the pulling and tear down myself, and putting most of it back together my self. Will have block and heads checked by machine shop etc.... the usuall drill. Just looking for hints, tricks, what to avoid from doing, etc.... All help will be much appreciated. this is what i want to accomplish by the rebuild. Want to make a reasonably streetable car, but one that can hold its own. I would like to run mid 13's with the 350, i have seen build ups doing this. I know it is not all about motor, and gears exhaust etc. play a big part. I have most of all that figured out by reviewing and reading other posts, just need some help with engine. Or, should i just go the 455 route. All opinions will be of much needed help. Please enlighten me with your knowledge, buick gods/know it alls. I have a reasonable amount of money, and dont want to cut corners, dont want to spend tons of money on motor etc... but whatever it takes to get it to a respectable level. thanx all. Nate
Make sure the machine shop doesnt forget the camshaft bearings. (Use god ones) Bye the camshaft from a company specializing in Buicks, Also, let them give you advice on witch one to bye! Always degree the camshaft. Check the actual comp. ratio; you may wont to deck the block. Make sure the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer really is at TDC (0*) Recurve the distributor, and do the Ignition mans intake manifold vacuum trick Whatever carb. you decide to use, make sure someone near you can tune it! It is always easier to get away with a vacuum secondary carb. That is what just passed my mind .:beer Lars
I'm with Lars on the machining. Make sure you choose a reliable shop that knows Buicks. Balance your internials. Don't forget to do some good head work. 3 angle valve job, make sure valve guides are good, etc. As for as cam,pistons,intake,headers call Taperfomance. They seem to be the dealer of choice. Main thing is get good machining.
Nate, My advice to you is to do your homework!!! It's real easy to be impatient and jump the gun because your in a hurry to get your project done. Take your time and do research!! There is awesome recommendations on this board and you can learn from others experiences,and not make the same mistakes. Theres nothing like spending mucho money and then being disappointed with the results and the" I shoulda done this,I shoulda done that" experience. Also it takes just about the same amount of money to build a big block as it does to build a 350. When I first got my 70 350 Skylark all the club members were saying put in a Big block,But I wanted to see what I could do with the small block. I am not, in any way sorry of my choice,My Skylark always wins trophys in every show I enter it in,it's been 13 years of satisfying effort,She'll also run 13.52 in the 1/4. I do have a big block car I picked up 4 years ago,and that is my New toy.She's a lot quicker then the Skylark but the Skylarks been here for 13 years.Nowadays the Skylark sits covered in the garage while I play with the new toy.The choice is yours,I love both my Buicks.I am partial to the 70's. If I can be of any help,if you decide on a 350,don't be afraid to ask.I've learned a lot about them the past 13 years :Smarty: Kenny
My advice for a first rebuild on a running car is: DO THE CHASSIS FIRST! Make sure the new engine has a good "home" to go back into. The GM "A" body is very sensitive to rear end geometry problems. It won't matter how much power you have, if the rear end control arms have clapped-out bushings, and it's jacked up to clear wider tires, you'll NEVER get traction. You'll probably want fresh springs front and rear. Verify the brakes work properly, and convert to disc up front if you don't already have them. (lots of different ways to do that- research them and pick what works for you!) Verify the front suspension and steering are in good condition. Expect the ball joints and control arm bushings to be shot. Expect the idler arm to be shot. Inspect the control arms for cracks, I've seen too many that were unusable! Replace the body bushings, too. My "A" body is a rattly, loose POS, and most of that is now the fault of a rusted-out radiator support, and shot body bushings all around. There's nothing holding the front fenders, grille, hood, etc to the frame up front. It's on my list of things to do...soon! In short, build the car SAFE, before you build it FAST. Your original question about engines: I recommend the 455, but all the previous posts are correct! THINK and RESEARCH before spending!
engine rebuild i agree with doing your research on rebuilding as oiling is a main modification you will want/need for a long lasting engine. you will want to drill out the passages from sump to pump to atleast 1/2 -9/16 max with a 5/8 pickup from ta performance. drill out the passages in the timming cover/oil pump to 1/2with a booster plate . i wouldnt use extended gears unless your clearances are loose.also deck the block 020-040 to increase compression or atleast to make up difference from stock steel shim gaskets (020)to replacement gaskets that are 040 . some pistons have an advetised compression ratio that needs the block to be decked to reach that comp so find out from piston supplier. the hyperutectic require .040 dech hieght with 040 gasket for 10 to 1. so find out what your parts require to get what you want.if you can find the the cap screw rods are stonger than the stock 70 rods.they will be stock in 74 or newer engines.there are other eng mods to motor and oil system you can find from ta performance or try pae performance as well as trishield.they know all about what you will need. good luck :TU: andy
I absolutely, positively agree with Schurkey. You must rebuild the chassis first. You can make 400 horse, but if you can't control it, you might as well have a stock runner. I built a slightly warm block with lots of hi-performance parts and that thing was all over the road and out of control. So I pulled the motor and commenced to a chassis rebuild. Rebuilt front suspension only replacing all the bushings. Then replaced upper and lower control arms in the back with Edelbrock Square tube arms. Shocks/springs all around. Even replaced everything in the rearend, replaced front and added a rear sway bar. The brake system is as equally important. If you can't stop it after loosing a brake line, that hot little engine won't look as good with a mangled bunch of sheetmetal wrapped around it. Do yourself a favor while the motor is out and change ALL brake lines and wheel cylinders. I even went as far as changing out the 130,000 mile master cylinder and booster. Just my $.02 !!!! Above all enjoy rebuilding and doing it right. Some of these things you will only get to do once while you own it.
