Tom came down to the house today for some BBQ and to help me out with the carbs, we ended up leaving the 600CFM alone, but making that the primary (we swapped all the choke stuff over from the 750). We then re-jetted the 750. He changed the .110 jets to .104 and the .107 jets to .101 We also changed the metering rods over to 4747's (springs remained the same). Played with the linkage a little and after some minor tuning she ran fabulous. Took her out with the G-tech and ran a best time of 15.11 95.6 MPH. Mind you I was not able to stage or anything due to pesky beach goers (traffic). It was an excellent day to say the least. Learned a ton (as usual) just by watching and listening. I gotta learn to have a recorder ready 'cause I have a mind like sieve.:laugh: Thanks again T!:beers2:
can & should these intakes be port matched ? on the pic above there is a plug in the bottom of the intake, what is that for because it has pinholes in it. so i started working on the motor today i put new rubber fuel line in and a new fuel filter, changed the points condenser and ignition coil out, and after adjusting the points it fired right up and idled smooth ( it hasn't ran in 3 years!!!) very exited. next sunday out comes the motor and trans for regasketing and painting. after brushing up on my gas welding skills, i have to repair the crack around the oil drain plug. after motor is done then comes rebuilding the body panels( ie floor,rockers,fenders). should be interesting doing it all by hand, sadly no parts available
Jake - The round hole at the bottom is a freeze out plug. I suggest copper brazing the pin holes cuase you can crack the casting trying to get it out. Looks nice, What color you going with on the manifold and motor. I put those Jet & metering rod #'s in my last post, see how she runs first, if it stumbles a little off the line try those jets my ride run awsome now!! :TU:
i ficed the plug first i solderd the pin holes then i neatly spread jb weld over it to get a for sure seal. elderbrock part number 2732 is what i'm going to use to keep the new carb from distorting. i'm going to paint the motor as close as i can get to original color.. if the lesabre becomes too much work i'll just buy another one and put my motor in it, otherwise the nailhead would look great in my model a:Brow: :beers2:
If you cut the partitions out from between the front and rear barrels of that intake, leaving the center divider, it will greatly enhance the performance of that intake. I have done both of mine that way and it was well worth the effort.
if you will cut the partitions out from between the front and rear openings on the intake, leaving the center difider, it will inhance the performance a bunch. I did that on both of mine and it was well worth the effort.
Jake, I have port matched the intake on all my nails. Be care full doing this because the intake gaskets that you use for a guide are directional. If you get them wrong you can make a mess. However the port matching its self is easy.
Is this performance benefit only for square bore intakes? does it help with spread bore? I've got the pictured filthy beast to clean-up, but could put it on the mill for some divider removal if that would be an improvement. There isn't much material separating the bores below the sealing surface. The last user sealed the exhaust heating holes and had an adapter to convert the spread bore intake into a square bore. o No: i'm having qjet (750 CFM) issues, so would like to switch to an after market 750+ CFM 4bbl carburetor that would improve performance. did you see noticable improvement in performance with intake port matching? thx!
I have a 1965 Buick GS with 401 and ST 300 trans. John Everett drove my car and advised me to get a Edelbrock 750. I bought an EDL 1407 750 CFM and it made a very noticable difference. I have also tried a EDL 1411 750 CFM and it does not cut it when compared to the 1407. My car originally had an AFB 600 CFM on it. Either Edelbrocks improved the performance noticably. Just my 2cents. Bill Bailey
