I'm looking for a Quadrajet to put on a converted 307 Olds engine to non computer. I'm thinking 78 or 79 would work that has vacuum style choke and the tang for a 200 or 350 trans cable on the throttle shaft. I might switch the shaft from the comp carb to the other carb I have now.
heres what i have. #1 top left 7042251 #2 top middle 7043251 #3 top right 17050253 #4 bottom left 7043251 #5 bottom middle 7043250 #6 bottom right 17056258 $60/ea shipped to lower 48
Is that top right one, the clean one, 17050253, is that an 1980 carb? Does it have the tang for the trans cable to hook to?
I have a 17058253 and just replaced the float and set it at 1/4. I'm still getting fuel seepage out of the front of the airhorn gasket. Is there something wrong with the flatness of the horn or the body? Has anyone had this problem with a Qjet. It runs perfect.
I have a 76 Olds 455 carb -17056257 800 CFM - clean and all parts move freely - no filter housing threads are good - has two available holes on the linkage for tranny ball stud or tang, one that pushes and one that draws great core for 40.00 Bought it for the same reason you did - Hot air choke and center inlet - never got around to building it As fas as seepage, thats not uncommon on lots of Q-Jets - comes from airhorn warpage, and is kinda non fixable. There used to be a guy who sold a jig/press type contraption, but he's long gone. Best bet is to replace the airhorn. I can PM you a pic if you'd like.
Warped airhorn can promote seepage, as can high float levels. Is the fuel bowl baffle in place? If its missing in there it might help the thing seep a bit. you can try to flatten out the air horn a little, pay attention to the two small screwholes in the primary bore as well, they get squeezed down at times and/or you could double up the air horn gasket or just use a thick gasket - or a thick and a thin - whatever it takes to seal it up. Judging by the ones I have experienced, a little straightening of the air horn and a new thick gasket goes a long way towards a good seal good luck
Yes baffle is in there. With the other float I lowered it twice and still the same thing that's why I replaced the float. I set it at 8/32. So if you flatten the surface of the airhorn do you remove the bleed tubes and sand it on a flat surface or what? On the older carbs I noticed 1/4 was the spec for most cars so that's where I set it. Is that too high?
I usually find the most warpage towards the front of the air horn, due to years and years of pressure from tight carb mounting bolts. If you hold a straight edge along the underside of the air horn from side to side, there typically will be some arc to it. it can be lessened by pressing it in a vise or on a press or any number of ways. You could even put it on a flat surface and use some kind of soft metal drift, and give it a smack with a hammer to flex it back a bit. I would recommend a slow press. Go easy whatever you do cause you dont want to crack it. And remember that the secondary air flap cam hangs down below the bottom of the air horn - be mindful that you dont crush it. Once youve got it straightened out a bit, THEN I might try filing or sanding it a little if needed. This is where I would pay attention to the two little boltholes in the primary bore. The get flared down a little sometimes, and this operation is what I find levels them out. You dont have to get too crazy with this stuff - the air horn doesnt need to be laser straight. Remember that the main body is probably just as warped or close to it. The purpose of this straightening is to allow the air horn to "re-set" or "re-form" itself to the main body. With a fresh gasket, this is usually enough to seal the seepage up. For the float, 1/4 is pretty high but that by itself shouldnt make the carb weep gas. I dont think it would hurt to lower it to 10/32 or so. The early carbs had 1/4" float settings because they had that massive float in the bowl taking up bowl capacity. your M4M float has a body much smaller, so your fuel bowl is holding more gas.
Doug take a pic of the linkage. There should be a pin at the top for the throttle and a small square lookin pin at the bottom on a second piece hanging down from the shaft.
Thanks for chiming it Ken, I always thought once they warped it was pretty much a done deal. RonBZ455 - I'll put a picture up tonight.. if nothing else, it's a cheap parts carb.
Depends how much theyre warped and how much you want to mess around trying to straighten it. At times I wonder if its worth the effort. Depends on what shape the rest of the carb is in I guess. Someone out there does or did sell a dewarping jig that you would attach your carb to and then stick in an oven. Never got one, never tried one.o No: EDIT: no longer available BARKER UNWARPNG TOOL http://www.quadrajetcarburetors.com/
Yea I was thinking the same thing about fixing the carb. We have guys on here with carbs but I would have to rebuild them and see if they work. But I could ckeck the airhorn for flattness before I built it but the money adds up the more you buy. I know this 307 is short lived till I build the kick ass 350 or go 455. I have a 72 Skylark that I'm building but this Regal would be a nice driver till it become a fast Drag car. I spent so much time with these headers I would like to see how it runs. The HEI I bought from KMJ has a bent shaft so I'm trying to get them to send me another one and no reply yet. I'm trying to make up an exaust for it now, I have 1 flowmaster muffler but don't know if I have another yet. It would be nice to have an 800 Quad and an 600 Quad to see if it makes a difference on the 307. But I would have to try jets, secondary rods and hangers to see wich one works better. That's alot of track time.
Ron - Attached are pictures of the 800 cfm olds carb I was talking about with a close up of the linkage- it has two holes for a stud, either pushing or pulling. I might even have the correct sized stud if you let me know what size it is. PM me if you're interested. And as far as running the 307, I think you're talking to the right guy with Ken - I went to the track with him one day and he tuned a full second out of his 307 Cutlass with carb and chip changes..he looked like he was having fun anyway. Ken - have you ever seen one of those unwarping tools in person? There has to be a better way than grinding the airhorn....(and I do it on almost every one...)
Usually the oem Quads already have the tangs, pins, on them to hook the throttle and trans shift cables to them. I'm thinking your's is a fit's all type of aftermarket Quad. And when you buy them they come with a package of all the different tangs to put in the linkage.
No - it's a 76 Olds 455 257 Q-Jet - It was in a TH400 car so it didnt have any other throttle linkage from the factory than the cable. It does have provisions to mount an aftermarket stud to either push or pull an additional cable (TV Cable?) but no "tang".
