Oil Pump Not Priming, Yes I packed it with Vaseline

TA's tool works great. 15 bucks

 

$25 + shipping according to their website.

I'll see what I can get done tonight, if it doesn't work then I'll order the proper tool. I was trying to get this all done over last weekend (need the Jeep out of the garage to do some remodeling ), so waiting a few more days and spending more cash on a tool I hope to never use again isn't all that attractive right now.

Anyway, updates as progress takes place (or doesn't) tonight.

 

And now we know...



So yeah, tab's sheared off. I even heard it come out as I pulled out the distributor. I'm trying to fish it out of the timing cover with my magnet-on-a-stick, but haven't had any luck yet. I'd really prefer not to take the whole front end off the motor just to get a stupid little tab.

Back on topic: Is it possible to buy just a distributor shaft?
Seems a little silly that 10c worth of metal means a $300 worth of distributor.

 

Bummer.

Unless it's from some one here, I doubt you can buy just the shaft. If you got a junkyard near by and handy with disassembling and reassembling things you can pull a HEI distributor from a Buick V6 or V8 and just pop the
pin out of the gear and pull the shaft out. As long as the junkyard distributor and your distributor isn't rusted or gummed up you should be able to pull the reluctor off your V8 one and install it on the V6 shaft. That's what I did. I'm running the original 231 V6 distributor in my 455. I only mention this because the V6 HEI's are a lot more common.

When you get another distributor, BEFORE you install it, take the gear off, set the distributor in place and see if you can turn the oil pump with the distributor. If the gears are interfering with the booster plate you won't be able to turn the distributor, or it'll have A LOT of drag, you'll feel the metal on metal drag if you can turn it.

 

Before you replace the distributor/shaft, check the clearance in the oil pump so it doesnt happen againou:

 

Well thats what broke the bottom of the distributor, the pump without a gasket was too tight. A pump cant be built with RTV, the gaskets are what controls the end gear clearance.

 

Use a TA oil pump rebuild kit. It comes with various thickness gaskets so you can get things right.

 

Try Yardley's homemade priming tool:
Found here:http://www.1badriv.com/hardway.htm

"I made my own. Here is how I did it: I bought a 1/2" wood boring bit from a hardware store. It is a 10" long flat bladed paddle-bit which cost only a couple of dollars. I snapped off the point so I was left with a flat screwdriver type tip. Then I took a 1/2" deepwell socket and dropped it over the bit from the back, so it hung down from the back and covered the entire tip. This kept the bit from walking off the oil pump shaft as it spun."

Ingenious!

 

I have a hEI with coil and new wires ill sell you for 50 shipped if that will help you out at all
let me know by tonight and ill try and ship tomorrow
Thanks

 

PM Sent

 

Good to see you around again Nick.. Glad you could help out here..

 

Hey Mark hows it going sir
Hope all is well
Just glad i could help out a fellow hot rodder , whos silly enough to be wasting as much money on cars as i am, in these hard times LOL
Good Luck
God Bless

 

Hello,
i wanted to ask when assembling the oil pump on 215 what is best to use on gaskets?
Keep them dry or soak them oil, water or something else before assembling?
I know not to use gaskets sealer as it will effect the clearance of the gears.

Cheers,
John

 

Dry is fine.

Devon